predator

Selling my RB20det out of my R32 + auto gearbox Runs fine and goes pretty hard at the moment with an rb25 highflow turbo. Potential buyer welcome to go for test drive to see the engine going nicely. Engine is currently sitting in front of an auto. Tested good consistent compression across all cylinders recently. Other mechanic checks welcome (your expense). Can provide no other guarantees. Engine / car was stock until last 6 months when modified carefully. It has a bit of minor blowby, as would be expected for an older turbo engine. Has done 111,000km, but fairly genuine km. Will come assembled with full manifolds, injectors, alternator, etc. NO turbo or lines, AFM and minor bits and pieces I need to transfer to the rb25. Auto box is the rb20/25 RE4R01A -- and is exact swap into R33 as well as r32. No slipping, very good across the range. **** AUTO SOLD **** Selling due to rb25 conversion... otherwise engine and auto has given me no problems over last 12 months. Will not be available for 3 weeks or so, but here is a chance to test/drive it all in my car at the moment for some piece of mind. Put a deposit down, and it'll be ready for you. Asking $600 for engine. **** AUTO SOLD **** rb20 ECU and engine loom may be available later (extra price will have to be decided), but will have to see what the rb25 conversion requires.

number #2 looks like something a rapper would have on his car.. we could call you Lil' Sam

I've got a set of 4x standard GTS-T springs. These are pretty soft, so could be good for drag setup. Were running fine on my car with Bilsteins, and still feel to be in pretty good condition for age. Asking $50 for them.. doubt they will be selling anytime soon.. so anytime in the next 6 months and you need them for whatever reason, send me a PM

ok.. so is this where you can loop it?? ts just on the RHS under the starter motor...where the fuel lines, etc go to the back of the car as well there is about 6 pipes going back there. this is for R32 GTS-T but I assume its similar to GTR HICAS setup.

#6 looks a bit like those very old school volks you see on a lot of cars, thats maybe why i don't like them so much.. but boy they have dish...

its a hydraulic system.. your master cylinder, slave cylinder or clutch line has busted itself quite likely.. get somebody to look at it. or just trace the clutch cylinder all the way to gearbox and see if you can spot anything obvious.

of course its bad luck when you can't drive properly...

1 or 3.. might make the car a bit too gold.. but will stand out and blind everybody..

Personally it would depend on the price difference, how long you are going to keep the car, etc. If you want to hold onto the car for 5 years, then maybe the NEO would be better as its a newer engine, with probably more life in it. But if you get a neo you will need the correct neo loom, ecu etc.. they won't be interchangeable with the older engines. If it was only $1500 difference AND you thought you were going to keep the car for a bit longer.. then personally I'd go the NEO.. but if u just want to get it fixed, maybe drive it for another year, i'd get the cheaper older rb25 You would also have to look at whether the newer engine would need a separate engineering certificate to run it in your car. Should be fine from emissions (as newer engine), but you would want to check it carefully.. just in case at sale time you end up in a predicament.

I've seen this calendars in person and they are really good quality.. as good as a professional one you would buy in a store.

a black 32 was written off down here yesterday too.. gotta love it

Have you spent any significant money on handling, tyres and everything else though? A few years ago it was all about the HP.. but like maccattack, building a car to rip through corners, tackle the track, and have power available across the board is more fun.. and most of all, have trust that you can control every ounce of it.

I thought it was inversely proportional? Often though you are right dave.. sometimes you can see fairly stock skyline that is not much slower than one where somebody has spent a lot of money on to chase their 'magical' 200rwkw. It might be faster up top end (170km/hr.. etc.. ) but lower the difference it may not be so noticeable. People often do silly things that can effect some aspects of the car, and dynos results are often put on the optimistic side.

It's $35 for willowbank..give or take a dollar or two. anyhow, go post in QLD area, some people may attend.. I'm out though I'm fitting an xtreme lightened flywheel, and cushioned ceramic xtreme clutch behind an RB25det, and rb20 gearbox.. the cushioned ceramic rather than the button or full face clutch in the hope it may hold the gearbox together for a bit longer. Shall see whether my thoughts are correct(?) or not soon enough. Interesting reading though on all that.. good when people post up their experiences other than the "big blank" after the initial "should I?" The way SAU used to be!

hey cool, somebody is older than me!

happy birthday mr events vp guy..

hmm, I just bought a clutch slave cylinder for R32 from them?

Try these guys: http://www.indbrake.com.au/ Ask them for a part number, and/or ask them for a stockist in your area..

Good further insight. I can't really see that happening, but I can easily see manufacturers skirting it altogether coming up with their own systems, just that little bit different to make it 'their own'.

buy a manual for $3500 extra.. can be hard to track down the parts, and they can be expensive.. No you wouldn't be able to tell the difference (except on the firewall plate), but the conversion would probably be around $3000 anyhow.

At double the life, flexibility, lack of cracking, lack of getting stress cracks.. and I *think* the nissan genuine's come pre-painted in your cars colour (not exactly sure on that though).. I'd pay double for plastic. I had fibreglass front bar(s) on my old car, and no end of destroyings for 2 bars. Never mind asking a real panel beater what they think of the quality and the stuffing around to fit the fibreglass units. Many of them don't even come out of the mould properly..with heaps of small imperfections which need to be tidied up before fitting. My current factory plastic bar has quite a few scrapes, but that would have been well destroyed by now if it was fibre.

I've heard that nissan is able to supply original bodykit items.. but the price .. Although it may not actually be too bad for a genuine plastic - plastic fantastic

Got a Navman iCN 635 unit.. Comes with latest smartST v3 software, and latest maps of all Australia. 128mb MMC card, and 128mb internal memory. Used this extensively on a recent trip, and has the local streets for places 1000km away. I just don't have much need for it locally, but great for people that do a lot of travelling. You can just put an exact street number 2000km away and it will direct you all the way there to in front of the property! giving you items such as km, ETA, show your little car on the map as you go, etc. Oh yeah, it has a speed check thing that gives you your current km/hr, which is more accurate than my car's speedo! Comes with remote and all accessories... including manual, original CD-ROMs, mountain bracket, etc. Plugs into your cigarette lighter, so can be transferred from car to car very easily. This is pretty much the top of the range of the Navman's, and comes with remote control, larger screen, voice navigation, etc. Easier to use than the tiny units. Can demo if local to see how great it is. Never need a UBD again, impress your friends, etc! Asking $700 . new price is $1200+ no receipt, no stolen.. blah.

For fairly unskilled work..I would be looking at customer sevice.. that sort of thing, as that is this sort of area. AAPT often has openings available for call centre operators. The theme parks often have openings if you're a bit of a people person. Even something like working for a cleaning company cleaning hotels, factories, or the like if you're really desparate to just get something. There is plenty of construction around, so if you can handle labouring in the hot sun, there is a bit of that work around. My suggestions anyhow.

I don't believe so? and if they do, i would have thought it would all programmed in per track, not reacting to suit the conditions of the road as it travelled. I believe that is how the LEM system would work, although that side it doesn't really go into much detail. Does it use some predictivity? or does some type of ECU communicate between each wheel to balance each other out -- applying compression or contraction in the motors to suit?