predator

Brand of the seatbelts ADR compliant are Klippan. They should have been required for compliance and are required in all states with the exception of WA (I think). Just do it, no point complaining on them. Expect around $400 for full set however. I just bought a replacement upper arm for $300 from nissan... and i think the mechanic charged $50 for installation. Really its only about 4 bolts, so that was a bit excessive. Otherwise get the individual bushes, and have them fitted .. in the end, if a mechanic is doing it, might not be much different to getting the replacement arm and fitting in 20mins yourself.

female driver?

too common.. should have sold it 18 months ago and you would have got an easy $16k, but that is really just standard depreciation over that time. ask $13k, sell it tomorrow... move on, and remember the fun times.

amir: buy one.. get your low 13's.. come back with a timeslip. Then we'll believe it.

Does anybody have the box, etc lying around and know the part number for the RB20DET slave cylinder? I went to repco today, and they were not sure of the exact one, even though they had some close guesses. Anybody know for sure? I believe its PBR brand.

Come to chilli next tues.. loganholme.. about 15 mins drive south of brisbane. Everybody likes to meet the interstaters .. it can even bring a crowd You'll probably find a lot of the skylines only 'know of' sau, and don't play much part on here regularly, but there are quite a few about.

rb20 auto and rb25 auto are the same so that is no difference. They may have different stall converter -- not sure there. I think you will definitely need more than 3500 stall speed with that combo.. I would suggest around 4500rpm or possibly even larger. and cams to bring on power sooner. Rb20 needs it, especially with a turbo much larger than factory, where the small factory turbo is designed to give power down low to make up for capacity. Factory stall on my rb20 R32 is 2500rpm (or close to), and that is shithouse even for a mild turbo setup which I have such as rb25 highflow.. Such a slug off the line, but when gets going it does mojo. As for 3.6:1 diff ratio -- my thoughts are that will also be too small for that combo with the above done, and you'll be hitting the power band too late for you to get an optimal time. I would suggest an R32 4.3:1 (the factory r32 auto ratio), or even shorter for a drag setup. It seems like this is your main goal? I would also go larger than 205/50R15's for tyres.. even if that means you have to run 16's to find the right width tyres (i suggest 2x GTR rims if u can fit them) Will be interested in other people's thoughts on what is required.. the above is probably what I would do if building a proper drag rb20 combo ..but that isn't really my goal.

bring it all down i say... life will go on.. evens out the balance .. what is money when its worthless and a mere bit of paper? Only those who've lived their life by possessions and living off others will have the most to lose.

Are you talking about a coil pack, as in 1 of 6 of them? or the ignitor pack? If the coils, your best option would be to spend $700 or so and buy a set of Spitfire Coils which are better than the regular Nissan coils. Kudos motorsport on here often gets them (he's goldcoast).. or you can try mecury motorsports (brisbane), and they may be able to sell you some, probably at a bit of a premium. But they will be able to get them for you. They are generally for turbo engines, but you will probably find they are the same as on your non-turbo.

I've been opening mine with pliers for 6 months I had to do the above and find the break and cut off a bit of the plastic to get to the wire. It works ok. To replace the cable itself, you have to take the RHS guard off as it runs along there -- bit of stuffing around which I haven't got around to yet.

I got the nissan original buckles for the front.. but be aware these may not be ADR compliant. If interested, PM me after 5th jan.

the guy will tell you where to go, and quite rightly. If its too much money, hold off and modify later. Enjoy the car as is and be happy with it.

thanx col.. but i have the r32 one on my current motor.. this is for the rb25 that is going in next year. I believe they won't fit the r33 bottom runners. I might give it a try when both engines are sitting side by side though

Does anybody know whether there are any alternatives to the standard Nissan Exhaust manifold gasket (one from engine to ex.manifold) ?? Need to purchase one soon, to get my rb25 ready for go in.. Just wondering whether there is any alternative than the rather expensive ~$120 or so for the Nissan version?? FYI: I searched around, and this thread contains the Nissan part numbers ... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=76684&hl=

i'd say its o2 sensor.. is it gurgly at take off? but on full boot not too bad?

do you mean the window rubbers? or the side strips? for the window rubbers, slide that chrome strip to the side, which covers the join. Then very carefully peel out.. using a flathead judiciously where necessary to leaver out the rubber.

why does it need painting? does it have heaps of scratches?

those vids are awesome.. couple of decent shots there just with the cars sitting around -- they're not that bad!

Focal 6.5" 165V splits are not too bad for fronts, got them in my car.

not bad... and you've still got plenty of boot space. That's what I like So the subs still have plenty of kick there? did you build an enclosure for them behind there?

100% class.. anyhow, working fine for me..

that's a good idea ...

qlder's are never dodgy...

ROFL @ constitution... Please read.. and find out how *our* country is run http://www.ag.gov.au/www/agdHome.nsf/AllDo...38?OpenDocument

sure I saw somebody on here asking $800 for a set recently.. did think he was asking a little high.