predator

there is a guide on how to do it in the tutorial section that i wrote ages ago.. otherwise pay a mechanic to do it. Whole dash has to come out.

happy birthday mike-o. Hope you have a good one.

Why does everybody want to waste their money on a "stock" skyline? By the time you have built it up, the increased costs/time/effort you spend on doing everything, can easily be offset against the cost of fixing the problems or even an engine rebuild of a slightly modified car. Doing that route now, i'd never do it again.

For a start you will need to get the car tuned.. so it will require some device to let you tune it.. just winding the boost up to 14psi and expecting instant power increase is not going to really work. in my experience, fitting an rb25 turbo will give you bit more mid and top range.. on the street it may actually feel slower, and a bit more laggy at coming on boost.

I would have sex with that car.. the veyron i would not..

they'll have them at a repco or supercheap in a big stand. Champion brand. They'll probably also have them at bunnings.. usually they are in a big rack with pretty much any other bolt you could care to name in a packet of 4-5 of them.

o2 as stated will allow the car to drive fine.. just going from off-boost to on-boost is a tiny bit laggy as it goes.. "hmm, where's the o2 sensor, not there, damn, ok AFM time anyhow'. Been there, tried that. There is something else going wrong.. possibly anything related (which narrows it down). Is there a clutch switch? maybe it thinks the clutch is still in/neutral and refuses to go out of closed loop? Stab in the dark

I've got a heavy duty Xtreme clutch pressure plate to suit an R32 +r33 (s1) .. push type. I'm buying a whole new clutch kit, so this is really surplus to needs. For a mild / cheap clutch upgrade, may provide some benefits rather over the standard nissan pressure plate in conjunction with a new clutch disc... apparently has some 20-60% more clamping pressure than standard. Is in pretty good condition, but could do with a light machine before fitting - think this is pretty standard anyhow. Anyhow, asking $70 for queensland buyers

I've got a heavy duty Xtreme clutch pressure plate to suit an R32 +r33 (s1) .. push type. I'm buying a whole new clutch kit, so this is really surplus to needs. For a mild / cheap clutch upgrade, may provide some benefits rather over the standard nissan pressure plate in conjunction with a new clutch disc... apparently has some 20-60% more clamping pressure than standard. Is in pretty good condition, but could do with a light machine before fitting - think this is pretty standard anyhow. Anyhow, asking $80 + post .. really prefer local buyer as its fairly heavy. Send a PM if interested.

You're an FF.. F'ing ...

I've heard you have to go to the space shuttle supply station to get them...

i had the same problem.. was wholy caster rods.. the more you corner hard, the worse the wear. Replaced bushes, been fine ever since. Check the bushes if you haven't already. Look for cracks in the rubber, or fluid leaking out.

You will need to speak to a compliance engineer regarding your specific modifications and what is and isn't allowed to get the blue plate. These are not your regular 'mod' type engineers, and I think there are only a couple in QLD. Mine was pretty much stock, so was fairly simple, but as above, nobody is going to be able to give you a definitive answer as to what is, and what isn't allowed other than the guy above. As he is the one who ultimately gives you the plate Then you just get a RWC and it can be registered like any other vehicle... again at this step the Roadworthy guy will have to agree on the mods and whether he thinks they are roadworthy.

There is a lot of paperwork for them to go through, and lots of accredication that costs them tens of thousands per vehicle. So this is why compliance costs a bit. And also the moves were to stop exactly that, joe cobbly doing compliance, and possibly doing a cheap job and possibly unsafe practices (not to say you would be) It's all a move by the government to have ultimate control over the supply or lack of imports by dictating the supply chain. Seems to work pretty well.

so you've tried rolin and Asian autospares up here? and no go? they usually have a couple. I've got my engine in my car.. but i am going on holidays till mid-jan. End of jan could talk if you haven't found one. Would be engine loom+ecu+engine for around $1000.

Apparently the japanese don't like them getting out of the country, so could be very hard to find one.

I'm doing fine with a $90 Heavy Duty Century Battery in my R32. Comes with a 2 year guarantee, which is a bit of piece of mind. Even then you should be fine for 30 minutes of moderate music use with the motor off, unless you have a lot of heavy equipment. I think they're just trying to sell you expensive things.

I can run two grounds, thats ok, as I am just grounding to the chasis in the boot. It's just the hassle of running to the battery in the engine bay on an R32.. If it was an R33, it would be no problems. I have spade terminals crimped onto the ends of the wiring. I think I can rig in another to sit ontop of the other. Thanks for the tip on the distribution blocks Al, might be worth investing in one of them to make it a bit easier.

I'm just wondering how I go about wiring up the power for running two amps? Am I am able 'daisy chain' the power wire from one to the next amp? Will that work? So from the + of the one amp to the + of the next amp, and the same for the ground (-) ? From rough memory, that will halve the current (amps) draw available to each amp? I assume running dedicated power wiring for each amp is ideal, but at the moment, I'm not really up for pulling apart the interior again for extra wiring. The gage of the wire already in place is already pretty hefty, about 5mm across so I don't think it could become easily overloaded? My equipment isn't really high powered stuff and I don't crank the volume enough to go deaf, so can I get away with it for a while?

It looks like your power steering belt? Loosen up the power steering pump and slide it back, put belt back into position, slide pump back, tighten. At worse, if it snaps you'll lose power steering. It won't damage the engine. Your timing belt isn't in the engine bay, its behind another cover - it sounds like that is what you're referring to.

sounds similar to mine.. nf: I think you'll make maybe 20% more power with raising the boost another 4psi or so... so thats quite a good result if you ask me. may as well post up my chart as a point of comparison. 16psi on highflow rb25 turbo (rb20 actuator), k&n panel filter, 3" exhaust right thru, highflow cat, hybrid cheap front mount 450x300x75, turbotech boost valve, SAFC.. So seeing as mine is AUTO, and non-powerfc seems about in range with nF above by taking 20-30% off. I don't think there was any temperature correction put in for the 32 degree day.. non-shootout .. So allowing 10-15%.. mine is about 150rwkw on any other dyno (probably feels about 150rwkw too). A fair bit of blowby at 16psi exhibited in my engine, whereas was none at 12psi... so any more isn't a good idea in mine at the moment.

if u can wait till end of jan, you can have mine.. can see it going in my car, with a bit of power behind it doesn't slip. I'm taking the whole engine and auto out, so will be no use to me.. Probably would only want $200 for the box. p.s. r32 and r33 auto boxes are exactly the same box.

I love asians.. don't kill them And asian girls... mm

GTR or s15 rims will set you back nearly $1000.. put your ego back in your pants and put some cheap stockers back on

wind it up the boost to 18psi or so.. it's probably the only way you'll get power out of it.. then it will be laggy and possibly kill an old engine. Sounds similar situation to my highflow rb25 (its running 16psi at the moment).. not the best match for rb20.