predator

yeah, thats what i did 3 months ago, and what is left is what that didn't get out (95% of it).. this is fun though, keep it rolling.. Maybe I should ask my mother.. rofl Ovencleaner could be a goer - "cleans off grease and grime" don't they..

check the engine mount nuts.. and have a bit of a look to see if you can see the rubber split or sagging down there. Both mine were less than finger tight on both sides (guess had come loose over the years). Car runs much smoother now that I've tightened them.

you could have a point.. I should give it an attempt at cleaning though. I feel slightly guilty.

ok, some good suggestions.. er, especially yours silvergts-t its been there for ages, as I have a habbit of conveniently missing the oil drain pan, no matter how carefully I try and place it ..grunt. its not my driveway, so i really couldn't give two shits about it, or whether it collapses into 50 billion pieces 2 months later.. but as long as the stain is mostly gone I did after all put "oil stain on driveway", even though it wasn't really there to begin with in the condition report for a reason

you're such a girl pie.. you should be taking into account the fine art of engine building, the engineering, mechnical knowledge, the problem solving, the tribulations

no.. Was just thinking that its possible that the turbo seals or something have stuffed themselves, thereby leaking coolant, which is sucked back up the recirculation piping, and into the catch can. Or its also possible, that if the car is kept outside, drives in the rain a lot, has a vented bonnet or something like that - that condensation could be forming on the catch can outlet. Does he have a POD ? is the pod mounted under the bumper or something like that? But just trying to give / guess some possibles.

I've got to move in a few weeks, and just wondering how I go about removing oil stain area on the driveway. No degreaser, or anything lightweight like that, as thats useless - what do the pros use in workshops, etc to get it off their floors? I was thinking HCL to eat off the top layer off the concrete, but maybe that is a bit *too* heavy duty.. Any thoughts from those in the know?

this question gets asked once every couple of weeks, do a search in general maintenance, or skylines area, and you can find out how to remove it.

Pulled my car to pieces today.. Whilst I was there, I thought I'd have a quick squizz at the timing belt to see what condition it is in (never checked since I got it..lol). Belt seems ok, but was a little concerned about the play in the belt. There was enough to be able to pull it 0.5cm or so outwards with my finger. Is this normal, or should it be on there tensioned tight with minimal flex? Guess it may be time to replace it.. doesn't give me more power though

some random photos of melb where I used to live.. even my old liner in there. These were taken about a day before I left.. taken almost 2 years ago now.. so many memories here for me..

some phoots from a recent trip away

For this you might want to read here.. and give them a call, and see if they can ship to you - can get the master cylinder new for a decent price. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=slave+cylinder

You can get a Passage or coupe HR31 (import R31) for under $10k with a turbo engine.. With some work, they go as hard as most other imports, and something a little bit different. Parts may be a bit difficult to track down, but are available.

turning.. check your caster rods to see if they are damaged also.. they are different to your tie rods

plz clear your PM box SK .. Have transfered the money for my order today.. Just need to send the details that its actually for.

me

have to push it in.. hopefully it would hold the window in. That would be the only reason I see it not working properly. Its the standard T shape of the standard stuff.

Pull off your AFM and see if there is any coolant in your rubber hose there.

I've seen generic trim.. looks fine. Have to fix mine. Clark Rubber has these strips for $10/m or something tiny.

get a proper 1/2 socket.. long one, then a long extender. Should come off with ease. If not, resort to extender and breaker bar. 3/8 is useless for the heavy duty stuff, so use 1/2 inch gear. Careful you're going anticlockwise - or you'll shear off the bolts.

Have a standard RB20DET turbo.. Has 16V 8 on the housing if that means anything. Comes with standard elbow, and rb25 actuator. No shaft play, or blow by. Came out of a 1989 R32 gts-t, which was until about 2 months ago stock, and running stock boost for its whole life. Cheap replace if your turbo is dead, or can be highflowed. Asking $150 PM or [email protected] if interested.

This do? rb20det.. I've got a couple of people that I need knocked off, let me know when you're available

depends how much it ends up costing.. and whether he gets lucky with the engine (what happens if it blows 6 months in???). If he can get it all done (+car) for under $20k its probably worth doing.. beyond that though, you'd really have to start thinking about a genuine GTR. R32 gst-t is a great chasis, so the potential for handling is still there.. Not sure if would bother in R33 though.

With 1,2, power button, overdrive button, and a few functions to play with the shift points, you do actually have a bit of control over the gearing. I'd even say that my auto powered RB20 has similar lag to a manual. Overdrive off, power button on, 1 into 2, 2 into drive, you're accelerating pretty quickly. Rev the crap into it, it holds that gear and drops only a tiny bit more revs in a manual (and a shift kit would be useful there). I think you maybe need a ride in a fastish auto with somebody who knows how to use it a bit You might be surprised. Where it is not so good is cornering, but again, the 1, 2 selection can play a part there. But for the track, or in the mountains, a manual is definitely less frustrating in being able to get the control you are after.

do not drive the car!! fix it.. or BANG.. serious engine fire is quite possible.