predator

SS HOW ? lol

no Falken ZE326 are possibly the worst tyre you can buy but yeah, tyres aren't the whole equation.

or older engines not making as much power.. bad suspension setups, cheap tyres as they spent the all the money on the fancy front mount, etc, etc. First thing you can almost tell how well somebody is going to run, is scoping out their tyres

I want to see of them pull times before judging how fast they really are I was trying to find reference for rb20 powered drag cars in japan. Best I could find was something that did low 11's. I am sure they must have got better than that over the years somewhere.

bump

just the short period of time it was run like that.. I've had a couple of cars ping for a little bit whilst under load (even quite audible, backed off of course), and its never resulted in cracked rings or things like that .. months and months on. Other cars too. I'm just thinking that if it is in fact a failure, some other underlying weakness over time??

Don't know whether this helps, but I just weighed a standard R32 gts-t rim + tyre I have here and its 18kg. I'd assume that this would have to be similar to R33 unless its a different material. Guess you'd have to work out much a tyre+air weighs. Are there any formulas to work out the weight of air in a tyre at say xx PSI ? Must be I'd imagine...

strange if you blew it with just that what you said..

yes, write down a receipt for the amount, get your signatures on both.. vin, engine number, and date.. that should satisfy. Its worked for me in the past. The transfer can't be formally done until the rwc is presented, even if u fill out the paperwork, but it does open you up to possible problems discussed above. It might take 3-4 weeks, while he dicks around getting a rwc, he might be stupid and decide he is going to drive it around in that time, has an accident, etc. But all maybe's. If u want to be safest. Drive the car around to the buyers place with a mate behind. Remove the plates and rego sticker, and if he drives it after that or anyhting like that, thats totally his problem.

get under the car to get the 2x nuts off .. top ones just socket them or use a ring spanner if needed. I didn't find it too hard, other than 2 snapped bolts, but they were the original bolts and nearly 15 years old. I didn't really notice too much difference with the dump at all, but there might be a bit more power there. Haven't got it dynoed so don't know.

your regular expressions suck ass monkey

mines even a gts-t.. non type m auto and doesn't (currently).. its not straight away obvious until you wind the power up a bit. I think you'll find most of the GTS don't have them, but in a few special editions, or it could be optioned in.

yeah, i know.. just if you were in accident or something.. they could claim some b.s. about the brakes contributing to the accident, even if they were inclined to turn a blindy to the rest of the addons.

I would have thought any aftermarket bracket would make the car instantly unroadworthy... They come with any ADR compliance?

I have them all for a coupe.. so if u can find out if they fit, let me know. I can't see why the fronts would be any different to a coupe, but its perfectly possible.

some of em do.. but most likely not..

will they sell in these high fuel times? rexes already are known to drink more than a camel in the desert.

how much u looking for the rears - if you want to split?

I'll be blunt: wtf do you want to stick 20's on a skyline? it will just look stupid

unfortunately no guide.. when i do it i'm going to post photos, everything step by step.. unfortuantely - that doesn't help you now :-s

I got an EL.. NGK/NTK.. On the box it has 0Za23-D.. No. 0192 works same as stocker pretty much.. didn't notice any massive improvement in fuel economy, or degredation either - so guess there wasn't much wrong with my old one. You have to spade the ends.. as you can't solder the wire or braid it together.

Can do it drivers side too.. another grommet down near there..

??? you can't bring in anything modifed anymore ?? who knows what condition all the gear is in too.. I know the exact condition each item is in and get to handpick what I want myself. But no its not totally the most cost efficient solution.. but its rewarding and hell fun if you like to fiddle.

these cars coming with compliance and things? just wise to check, as my R32 cost me $7k.. but on road, with compliance, and a few things like tyres, ended up being about $9k As some sort of *rough* guide (not that I am creating a competitor to a GTR - and mine is gts-t).. from totally stock rb20det auto (non type m so crappy brakes, non LSD) to rb25det drop in, tight LSD, decent brakes, reasonable suspension setup, manual conversion w/ heavy duty clutch, flywheel, and upgraded turbo and powerFC, will be up around the $15k mark. Doing nearly everything myself. Up to about $12k so far.