predator

Have a look for rust mostly.. under panels and things.. getting to the age where they can start to rust Chasis damage underneath. Not blowing lots of smoke Worn bushes and suspension (can be expensive to fix if all need doing) Oil down near where transmission meets engine (rear crank seal). Labour intensive/expensive to fix. Common problem on RB20's Coolant system in good order

The September school holidays are a great time to get the kids active, do something new and have some fun together before the rush to finish the last term of school for 2005.

PowerFC (for r32) is $1200 + ~$400 for tuning.. its a $1600 investment... vs $300 + ~$300 - $600.. nearly 1/3 the price.. not 1/3 the power you reach a point where you obviously need more than an SAFC, but then you need to spend a lot more on other things..

dump

The problem is not the fit of the caliper, its the fit of the larger discs... What discs do you want to run?

..and also blacklisted from ebay by the looks of things. Make sure he never trades on ebay ever again.

thanx, its fairly easy to work out, but sometimes it helps to have the photos. Still haven't got it tuned I have self-tuned it myself for the midrange a bit though, so it pulls a noticeable amount better there.. Just don't want to lean it out at the top without a dyno tune in case I get detonation. I have noticed quite a good difference in fuel economy just with my fiddle tune, especially during city driving (where you are using the accelerator a lot).. Its down to about 12L/100km city, and highway is around 10-11L/100km.. Before it was a couple of L/100km more than that. When I get it tuned, I will post the results, but I will have a different turbo so it won't be a great compariosn to just "std vs std+safc"

If you are going manual... You should be able to get by with using the S13 pedals, R34 clutch master cylinder (required for a heavier clutch), the s13 lines and things -in fact you wouldn't be most of the neo parts ones anyhow as they are for the R34 shell. Where you will have to adapt probably is use the slave cylinder line and slave clyinder from the rb25 gearbox, and also the cross member you may need up to suit S13. And a tailshaft made up as well (would need that for the auto anyhow would say) You will probably have a few issues of working out which parts of the neo is wiring for the auto transmission, but most often its the auto has the extra crap for wiring, controllers, etc that in a manual is not required at all. In the tiptronic there is probably more interface between the auto ecu and engine ecu (guessing here), so its possible without the auto controller hooked up in may go into spastic mode... In that case you might have to source a manual R34 ECU.

Its good that you're thinking of going for something a little cheaper to start off with. I know I had a lot of close calls in my car, and a lot of mates wrote off their car in the first 12 months, etc. also remember it should be easier to sell a cheaper car in 12 months or whatever when you are sick of it. If you get something reasonable popular then it shouldn't be too hard, as there'll always be another dude/ette who just got their p's and will be looking for the same sort of car. When you 18, etc circumstances can change a lot so often the cheaper car means you can always 'get out' if u need to much easier and sell it or whatever if you decide you want to go overseas, get a new job, etc.

so what does that do? as far as i know c&p simply removes the harshness of scratches by either removing the edges of the scratch (i.e. the rough debris surrounding it), or removing the topmost layer of paint, assuming the scratch is not deep enough to go through to the undercoat or metal. It obviously does not "paint over" or cover any scratches.

I did think there shouldn't be any clear reason with enough wiring to run both ECU's simultaneously it shouldn't work?? I haven't seen any previous mention of this on here.. http://www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com/content-4.html Any reason why?? other than the ~$1000 pricetag of course. I guess for R34 they have a slightly different version of the autos.

Its certainly plainly deceitful, clearly dishonourable and blatantly immoral for insurance companies to offer policies which is easily discernable that the person would not meet that policy (i.e. a date of birth and a certain vehicle). However, of course a young person is going to take up a policy, on the hope that they are covered for their R33 gts-t, etc. But of course being young, they may not have enough experience in the wider world to not know better, and in effect, throwing thousands of dollars away to subsidise general motorists in their standard cars. Now its obvious the insurance companies will exploit this person to their advantage to make further profits, never mind the completely untennable premiums charged to younger drivers. It is for this reason I wouldn't EVER insurance a common car with AAMI/Just cars just to save a few bucks - just because they are scum, and do take advantage of younger drivers. If they had any morals WHATSOEVER they would say "sorry sir, this vehicle would be illegal for you to drive, therefore we cannot insurance you for this vehicle"... never mind the b.s. 'oh but you could own it and not drive it'. They know that is pure bullshit, just as well as you do. Never mind the actual difference to the amount of people driving these cars on the roads, which some can argue shouldn't be happening (while I still don't know where I stand on this issue after many years!). It would be stopped pretty quickly in its tracks. You would think the victoria police and the state government would be stepping in to pretty quickly pressure the insurance companies to change their ways.. but hang on a sec, its all about public safety they are concerned about .. right ? Of course, something SHOULD be done about it, and there should be a huge outcry over it, but with the ageing population, who really does care about the youth of today? It's certainly not your politicians. we all know insurance companies are they are the scum of the earth and shouldn't be given the time of day, but unfortunately we all require insurance so they have us by the goolies.

even bilsteins you'll feel a bit of banging over the road.. from what I have experienced last few months. Any harder than that is a bit extreme....

actually don't worry

Wish I could get out to some of these for something different, but only so many track days I can get to with current situations Car needs a few little bits too

I've taken my auto on the racetrack and things a couple of times, and its still running ok still.. but true, i'm not concerned about the longterm longetivity. Personally i wouldn't worry about the fancy shift kits, etc until you have over 180rwkw or so. The stock auto isn't too bad, and shouldn't pack it in that easily if that is your concern. But there are improvements that can surely be made... If you spend a bit of money and go all the way.. there are even separate programmable auto transmission controllers that are compatible with the R32/R33 gearboxes. Just not cheap at around $1000.

yes and no.. depending on the coat used.. Some latter Nissans (R33 1.5 onwards) use a different clear coat, that can quite easily be stuffed with standard cutting compounds. If your paint is a bit dodgy, then it can only get better via a c&p.. did wonders for my R32 and cars with older cars i have used. With an old car that is exposed to sun, you have to expect the paint to be on its last legs (15 years or so).. so something u always have to factor in anyhow if u want bling bling Apparently what is meant to be great is Mothers Clay, and not quite a cutting compound, it fills the small scratches. Might be similar to what RellikZeppher is saying.

they look like they would fit.. but that is a guess.. unfortunately might be hard to get any more accurate just on the picture.

Ok, if it is standard suspension, there woudln't be an adjust valve, as they don't have them as standard. The damper rate is fixed. Some aftermarket shocks have an adjustment screw (so its possible they are aftermarket). If you had a photo that would help a heap, even if its just a dodgy camera phone shot. Generally if they are bouncing around like that when you press down and release, that unfortunately means they are stuffed. You can either look at full coilovers, but of course that is going to cost you a fair bit, or if you are on a budget you could look at something like Koni's for a couple of hundred dollars and keep your existing springs. If worse comes to worse I have a pair of standard rears in ok condition that you could have for $50 that would get you by for a while.. and no i'm not just telling you yours are stuffed to sell you mine I think if you ask most they would agree if its bouncing all over the place, then they are stuffed.

Mine are ok in the dark.. I think they're as good as most cars that era. Maybe try some brighter aussie bulbs?

Think people are moving on and buying family cars and other such cars (not sports type), and maybe not moving up to GTR's as much as they did. Hold in there Jon! somebody will buy it eventually. You have to expect 3 months to sell any skyline these days. Internet forums aren't a good way to get a genuine sale either, but doesn't hurt I guess.

not that I know of.. when I took the photos that day it was really bright overcast, and I think lot of reflection in them with grey sky. They're just standard headlights.

well for a start it might help by letting everybody know what suspension you have... you might not be the only one with an r32.. but there are about 50 different brands of suspension out there that will fit an R32. This is why you are not getting any useful answers here. So more information on even what brand is a start in the right direction..

depends what you are doing.. if you are against true track warriors, they'll have full type R compound and you'll wish you had something a little better...esp in a powerful RWD (like it looks like yours is) But compared to the occasionals, who who run cheap ass road tyres on the track, then they'll be wondering why you are doing a bit better than they are So its all a compromise and what you want to achieve. You are doing yourself a disfavour running 18's, as even if you go cheap roadies, and cheap track tyres, its still going to cost $$$

you want everything... if price is not an issue.. run a twin turbo setup