predator

Where does it say they are actually made in australia? not a bad idea using cheap discs that can be destroyed for the track though.

welcome to average workshop prices.. welcome to learning how to do these things yourself..

price drop - $90

nobody wants to run a cheap dual monitor setup?

Most tyres *would* pass fine, except to be sold in australia, they have to be E rated.. and I assume undergo some basic safety testing at some point. A lot of jap tyres would probably exceed that, but without some common standard, how do they know which ones are acceptable? I think its just a safety issue to ensure that cars are not being fitted with retreads and/or 2nd hand tyres which may be dangerous at speed, which could sometimes happen with the old rules. Obviously, compliancers took the cheapest option, to put the most money in their pocket (and compete against the guy up the road's rates) which meant the crappest tyres they could find. I think I remember reading something about jap cars and "snow tyres" as well appearing on cars here, which weren't safe on our roads - not sure if that was true.

these are the sort of things you're going to have to buy new..

sounds like it needs a better idle tune to me.. why not see a workshop to get them to retune it?

$300-$500

do i have vote? :confused:

First mod should be the 3" exhaust system.. unless you already have an exhaust on it. At very least do the catback part.. Then intercooler, and twiddle up the boost a bit, to around 12psi. Should go alright, thats about where mine is sitting at the moment in terms of mods.. next mod will be SAFC, and tune up to around 140-150rwkw (I hope) to hopefully run low 14's.. Should give you an idea anyhow.

is it local council elections or something soon?

I am not sure definitely as I've never driven an S13.. but I'd imagine the tailhappy rear could be a disadvantage when cornering? They tend to use the S13's rather than the R32 (as much - they drift plenty of R32 I know) for drift, as it has a much more slidey tail. This would actually be a disadvantage I would have thought when trying to get power to the ground?? There were a few R32 that came in under the 15 year rule (like mine) for around $10k but now that is not available the price has jumped up a few $k. $10k only gets you something fairly basic in terms of an R32 - I am probably up to around 12k with the basic mods, and only now does it feel like its actually just getting fast enough.

I think you'll find "any" car 10 years old or thereabouts may start to experience some electrical failures.. or have more liklihood of them occuring simply because of age and a hot engine bay. Wasn't actually being sarcastic. Thing is, you always hear about the problems on here, as people, obviously post when they have a problem. But when all is fine, they don't. Just from my own experiences, I owned my R33 for about 2 years (with all sorts of electronics extras tacked on), R32 for about 8 months now, and no electrical problems. Before that i've had R31 for about 4 years (similar system in some ways - ECCS).. and again no major electrical problems. Its possible that GTR's may be more prone to some failures because they are running 2 afm's, higher power, and things are a little more squashed in (prone to heat?), but I've never owned a GTR so can't really comment.

ecu is around $200-300.. loom around $500-600.. i bought a head to do rb30det.. in the end i found out the cost of loom, etc and all the little bits were too much.. ended up selling it and buying another complete motor with the lot as it worked out cheaper.

lol @ the authentic japanese looking bloke in the background. looks good.. yeah, the black always shows the litle things.. and will look dirty 99% of the time, but that is part of the fun

Can we fix the search so we can search for the 3 letters... so people can search for common items such as gtr, r34, 32, diff, lsd, etc, etc!! you used to be able to use say GTR*, but now it doesn't work.. (says its not 4 characters or larger)

if you change the splines - would you have to change the hubs as well to GTR items?

From what I can see on the loom i have lying around, the R31 (aussie) is also the same 4pin square plug.. so yeah, doesn't matter if its off a VL or R31 (prolly not pintara though as they have a different afm from what i remember)

baha.. thats because they're all in QLD in NSW.. and all the FONDAS are down in melbourne.. larger asian population.

sounds like it hasn't been balanced correctly.. one piece tailshafts can be very difficult to get right..

I wouldn't say its any different to how factory boost builds up (on R32) direct from wastegate to turbo. To be honest after reading all these reports I thought I would notice a big difference.. But I am not finding much difference between it and the Turbosmart I decided to replace with this one to try out. Its maybe a bit better, but its not like I am going "oh wow what a difference".

lol, my mate has a liberty also, he had no end of problems recently with his air flow meter after installing an oiled pod (silly boy) i'm for the "AFMS are as durable as any other electronics item on a skyline" (inc those coil packs!).. I suspect voltage or other wiring problems.. A voltage spike problem may consistently destroy AFM's I guess. I woudln't say its just a nissan "problem".. most other cars can have faults tracked down to dodgy AFM's (when they do go wrong - I'm not saying they never do)

its b.s. they ask you "what is the loan for?" isn't the idea for a personal loan, that it can be for anything? they wouldn't lend my mate money just because he said it was for "a holiday" and they wouldn't lend it to him because they didn't believe he was using it for that purpose.. what a croc.

It's all very cool, until you get your first defect..

nemz: I could probably do it, but I don't really like installing things on somebody's car incase I get blamed if something goes wrong People also have different standards as to what they expect and like things perfect.. Whereas my own car I don't have that problem If you can find a proper workshop to do it for $100, I'd get them to do it. Haven't got a front bar yet.. as the $400-500 to get it fitted, painted, etc I could use on performance mods right now .. With my car, I am kind of waiting until the whole car needs a respray, and get it all done (full kit, etc) in hopefully 12 months or so.