predator

From what I remembered they just shoved their head under the chasis to count that you had cat, resonator, and muffler. That was about it.. No look under the engine bay area from underneath. No, no pit as such! well not 2 years ago.

You'd have to get direct from japan.. rare kit, not sold here.. will cost you a few thousand to get from japan - still keen?

S13 rears with aussie strut tops fit the rear ok. Fronts are a little more difficult.

You should be able to get it repaired and fixed up. At least it is only a small section. ylwgtr has a thread in the melb section where he shows how he repaired his chasis rail to as good, if not better than new. p.s. somebody is stuck under your car there, better let them out

$1400 is a bit of a rip, considerng the usual price they seem to go for though.. $1400 would get you any number of brand exhausts, even from japan.

*ouch* http://forums.mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...42&page=1&pp=50

How do americans get them over there? as they are very hard to get to pass emissions.. Or do they have a similar "race import non-registerable" thing like we do here?

Well its fun to read ...painful to have do when you're in the position! anyhow, tonight, after a lot of stuffing around, finally got them all out. Got a couple of new shiny bits. Found that the bigger bits don't actually "cut" that well into the metal.. I think its just because the tip is not really designed to cut in itself. I actually found that using the skinnier ones I kind of rotate the drill in circles to cut through a bit better. So I was cutting into the sides of the hole, rather than directly down. Could just be my drill, I don't know. But it got there. Anyhow, got some some high tensile bolts, and can fit her back up in the morning. What a stuff around though! Boring obligatory pick attached lol. unfortunately it was dark when I got home so didn't take a photo before I pulled it off. G-clamps don't work the best though to give it a great seal, as it was squirting out carbon all over them Better than no exhaust at, but only marginally! It did hold up for 3 days without falling off though, so they did enough.

boy, that sucks the big one.. I can see why, to stop rebirths and the like, but it still sucks the big one!

Looks like its got some good bits other than just the kit (and rims). Pity you can't import it now, even for just part use?

rebirthed cars are bad m'k.. most, not all, support car theft, and should be reported to the authorities. You wouldn't like it afterall if you skyline got stolen, then rebadged with one from overseas. Never to be seen again.

What you talking about? $600 is cheap compared to NSW and QLD! Nice, but is it any nicer than any other R32 with a vertex kit? Does it have any performance gear? or just a bodykit??

Viper are the bits I'm using.. I gave it another try on Sunday, and the small bits went through properly. Then the medium 4-6mm ones.. now its the large ones, and getting out to that final 9mm hole that is causing me the grief. Saturday morning, its time to buy some new larger bits (think the others are blunt now) and I think I can finish the job 3rd time lucky Angle grinder was used to remove the outlying pieces already Its not worth spending the time that I am spending on it, but I think I will get there thanks to all the advice! errrr, kind of loud as its held together by one proper bolt and 3x g-clamps, as I *had* to get it together to get around to work.. yes, very dodgy.

problem is that the engine may have been swapped as well.. its amazing the lengths people will go to .. Passing off a $10k car for $20k+ crooks will spend a bit of effort on, to make sure it passes most checks. I think there are ways to do it legally, but the transport dept should have record of this. A dodgy engrave on the firewall will probably just be knocked back on inspection - possible car resposessed from you without recourse as being stolen. They can use UV light to get the original number off the firewall.. which could be stolen, etc. Personally I'd report the individual to the police... as who knows the path the car came to get to where it is. could be stolen with a number of other cars, etc, etc. That is why a few cars have key coding engraved into multiple places on the car, as it can be a hard job to detect if done properly.

I've got a $35 boost gauge.. can't say i notice *any* lag between feathering the accerator, and the needle moving. Might be more accurate, but not sure about response.

lol - that was my next point.. but you beat me to it Pentae What makes you think you can create a competitive automotive classifieds website, with next to obviously no money, paying penuts (you get monkeys), and obviously a bit of a lack of general etique and protocol amongst the internet world, no doubt leading to your obvious misunderstanding of the broader online marketplace?? Where are your profits going to come from, assuming you get visitors (hardest part to start with)? People paying for ads? Why? they can advertise on countless Internet forums for free that are going to be more targetted towards their needs potential buyers. Online Advertising? You ever seen how much most Australian websites make from this? other than maybe the top 5-10 commercial players that spend hundreds of thousands of dollars on them each year, most Australian websites make squat from this. Unless you have got more than 100,000 unique visitors a month traffic, you're going to make didly.

um, yes.. but that is besides the point. there are rules against posting the same thread in multiple areas, and you clearly don't want to follow the forum rules

this is funny... if it is infact doridori/mines.. you've all got his address, its posted here.. sort it out face to face

Where you going to drive it mostly? Going to do any track or mountain work? Sounds like you have the basics covered.. and should give you around 170-200rwkw with stock turbo. After that I would look at spending money on suspension, sway bars and other handling items before going too much faster as you'll be losing it to the ground. Sort them out and you can beat many other cars which much more power

I've only had skylines over the last 5 years.. 2x R31, 1xHR31 (only for a few months), R33 GTS-T, and R32 GTS-T Biggest problem was a crank angle sensor on my first R31.. and fuel pump on my current R32 (fuel pump was installed by me though and was aftermarket).. Other than that, absolutely nothing. Pretty amazing, and why I've always bought Skylines

What happens if somebody is standing around at a shopping centre, etc waiting for nice looking cars to arrive that don't appear to have any alarm? Then running up while you leave your turbo timer going (not that i have one, as its a security risk) and are that comfortable 20-30m away. I know I'd prefer to have the audible warning, in the small likelihood of this happening.

All it does is push out 12v when the unit is turned on (or switched to radio).. this raises your aerial for instance Apply 12v, aerial goes up, apply 12v again, aerial goes down. Can also be used to turn on your amp in similar fashion. But you can connect 12v to it all the time, I don't think it does any damage (mine is connected to the face unit control wire though)

you should not require a frequency expander, if you are using a locally sold head-unit. Just make sure you wire up the antenna power (in the car) to 12v or the antenna/amp control of your face unit.. or you will get only very poor reception. I clearly stated this in the wiring list.. Black/Red (below yellow) - Antenna boost. Connect this to your (head unit) antenna/amp control wire. After a bit of experimentation, this *does* in fact boost the amount of channels I could get, so a good idea connecting this up.

you've already spammed all the forums.. now you're going to bump every day as well??

you are best off getting the heavy duty ceramic ones - I think they are the 1watt.. they are big and square. I'd say if you wrapped that in plenty of electrical tape, and soldered properly you shouldn't have a problem I wouldn't think.