predator

Don't think I'll have the finances sorted by then, as I gotta pay rego and a few other things right about that time But will have to see. Maybe I'll just bring in the ECU and you can install the chip and basic 1hour tune or something to start.. later on can get a more comprehensive tune with the new turbo and things. Can you tune them to take GTR injectors?

your best bet is to wait until Dr drift comes up and get in on that.. he's tuned hundreds of cars.. But otherwise, there are little options in all of QLD. The only others that may be able to help are Chiptorque in nerang or Matty Spry at PITS.

u never let them drive it anyway.. u drive, they sit.

hehe, wasn't that serious - just curious myself as to what is possible. Somebody here should be able to get a mid-12 from a stock internal RB20.. afterall buzz-box powered SR20 and CA18 powered dattos are getting mid to high 11's... and they weigh about 400-500kg lighter :uh-huh:

well you should have one of the fastest rb20det powered r32 around here.. time to prove it

Nothing stops you driving a car registered in another state though for a while.. You are meant to change the rego over in 2 weeks or something silly up here, not many people do.. and with rego up to nearly $700 a year up here, no wonder

one will fit out of any rb gearbox apparently.. right back to aussie r31.. that probably also means VL's. can probably get new from nissan for aussie R31 for a few bucks. don't you hate it when u get a gearbox and some clown has removed it for no reason?

You should be able to go to www.jaycar.com.au and place an online order there. It may cost you a little more, however you should be able to still get one at least.

13 hours? :confused: its only 800km drive. I have driven 15 hours pretty much straight a couple of times.. with a couple of hours for stops.. but its not easy.. lol

Didn't you ask this last week?

Change auto fluid to see if it makes a difference, but most likely the box is on its way out from being revved out one too many times over its life. You could take it to somebody to get it serviced, but that could be a waste of money if its already on its way out.

It's a little unfair to compare those two cars, as obviously they have had tens of thousands of dollars thrown at them. You'd really have to compare stock look to stock look, and I think the R34 has the edge there as look different to most cars out there. The chaser has many cues to other cars out there. Many might not even draw an eye unless you know what you are looking at. I've seen a couple of stock looking ones out there, and often hard to distinguish it from a Camry from a distance (the ultimate insult! sorry )

What you reckon the WRX will be doing by the time its 15 years old?

oh, trust me, i keep thinking that.. and i have a nasty habbit of fiddling with stuff.. hehe. Its one of those things installed by last owner, that you just really can't be assed pulling out.. but i am sure it would be a good idea. err :confused: why the hell is this thread up the top again when i posted it yesterday :confused:

my mate will probably buy it, he was thinking of buying the exact same phone anyhow at rrp.. I have sent him an email with the details.

If it is ending, bit disappointing.. but in the end can't say I would be crying too much.. They started off very well, but in the end it started tappering off, and I stopped buying them as it became very samey. Guess most magazines suffer a similar cycle. When a magazine ends, it really never says "this is the last issue" - not often anyhow, it just happens. They had a lot of mistakes through it, and there "rumour mill" at the start of each issue was never that accurate.

The main plate says that it meets all ADR's current for 1989 or whatever year, so I assume that is what remains valid through state transfers as ADR is of course "australian design rules". The other plate you can get is for any other modifications, which can be a little state dependent, so maybe that is the one that would not remain valid. I've sold imported cars to NSW, the buyer have never needed to get a new modplate. And I think my old R33 had a compliance plate issued in NSW.

ok, thanks for the advice.. will buy some new bits from bunnings and give it another try..

9mm bolts.. and used 8mm bit.. I did try slow at first (drill does have adjustable speed), but that didn't seem to help. It has a handle, and applied whole body weight on it..snapped 3 cheapy bits that way, and they were the 2mm or so ones, but I was kind of getting angry at that point. so that is probably the problem? sounds like I need to buy about 3 good drill bits at $10 a pop I could still be at it for 2 hours getting them all out bit by bit. maybe i should just go bite the bullet and buy a new highflow cat instead.. less farking around!

what he said.. you should just need to get a QLD RWC and the modplate can be from nsw.. as otherwise everybody who transferred their cars interstate would have to get it recomplied locally, which isn't what happens. I registered my fresh import myself about 6 months ago up here.. so painful to find out the correct procedures, but you'll get there.

Have a bit of a problem. Took my cat converter off.. because I am installing catback.. snapped 3 of the 4 bolts due to being old unfortunately, and also very out of shape (heat I assume). Now I went down and got what looked to be the most hardy drill bit available...a cobalt one, that was recommended for "high tensile steel, stainless steel, etc" (i.e. the heavy stuff).. $15 for one drill bit was a bit excessive, but I thought it would do the job so worth paying. But no luck Gave it a try and the thing is not even looking like it will drill through. Its pretty much as useless as the other "designed for wood, metal, etc" bit I tried. My drill is a fairly strong electric one, so I don't think the drill is the problem. I assume the bolts in there are high tensile, and pretty tough, but there must be some way to get them out. Any suggestions?? and no I doubt ezyout, etc will be strong enough to budge these, they are really fused in there. I think drilling is the only solution You don't want to know how its all held together right now, but it is actually working

If I was still living at home, my current car would be an R34 GTR.. The fact that I don't, my next car is going to be my current car, a 15 year old R32 that I don't have to care about

I can't quite see how a mechanical will be any more accurate or quicker to react as long as the electronic gauge has got decent electronics... and things have changed since the 70's in regards to cheap electronics. Afterall, once the signal is converted to voltage, it then drives the needle - rather than the fluid being sent all the way into the cabin. The speed of light is a little faster than the speed of fluid I would think? In some ways I am not even sure why everything is getting converted to an electrical signal anyhow, and then it uses that voltage to move a silly analogue needle. Especially when a little LCD display is next to nothing these days. My mate has a mechanical oil pressure gauge .. The fact that the oil is going straight into the cabin is not good at all if you ask me. Always is uncomfortably warm to the touch.

thats not finished.... now *this* is finished...

yay!~!~!! wkd thxbai :love: (p.s. do we want to have a boy or a girl do you think?)