Ruthr33

Got it of eBay. 15 bux I think. Anyway. With out dyno results. And only road tuning results. For the street The 8cm on the 3l is un believable. The 10cm was ok. 3.4 is definatly next

Yes. I agree, with everything u say, especially the tuning. I'm scared my afrs are lean on boost transition especially when I'm not full throttle. Full throttle is 11.7 but leading up to that seems a lot lighter if I'm moderating the throttle. That's somthing I'll address in the next drive to keep it safe. I'm keen to get some ears on to listen to knock aswell before the next drive. If there's one thing I know it's I have no idea what I'm doing.. as for the over oiling thing I think I've got that covered. After a total of 3 hours of reving to the limiter I've collected 200mm of oil in my catch can. Easily eliminated by running a t piece to the turbo drain.

I changed it last night. Took it for a drive to day. It's everything I've been wanting and more. It spikes to 20psi then dies down to 15. it spins the wheels in 1 2 3. I'm so much happier with every charictoristic. It's got 5 psi at 3000 I was never looking for over 300kw just tourque. i hated the 25 with 10cm. The 30 with 10 cm was ok. But with the 8cm it's like a v8 im going to sell it now and get my dream car. An r32 gtr completely stock with a 3.4l

There it is. 3l with t67 8cm. 25 with t67 10cm was ok, 30 with t67 10cm was a lot better. My next car is a going to be a stock r32 gtr with 3.4l bottom end

I've got port 1 and 2 around the wrong way. What an amateur. Haha. No wonder the car felt gutless.

This is how I have it plumbed up.

I'm pretty sure it's hooked up correct. I can double check in the morning. There's a chance the solenoid is round the wrong way. yes ure rite. When it's turned off it does nothing. And the bottom port of the waste gate still gets boost pressure cause there's a tee piece on the boost controll feed. This is the fail safe rite? I feel pretty dumb but this is going back to basics isn't it? when mine is turned off it hits 20 psi the. Goes back to 14 But that's to be expected isn't it with a "small" 10cm rear turbo housing on a rb30.

My boost controll gives me a chatter sound and I hate it Power fc boost controll, turbosmart 45 external waste 14 psi spring. 3l and 10cm rear. when this thing comes on boost it makes a disgusting chatter sound threw the wastegate witch I thought was knock Im pretty sure it's the boost controller pulsing. It's also a bit doughy. When I turn boost controll off. It spikes to 20psi witch is my target then falls to 15 14. It feels like it has more torque aswell. And Best of all. That crappy chatter sound goes away. ive thought of some options am I best to get rid of the boost controll and get a 18psi spring and Mabey bleed off mechanically? or hook up the e boost controller so it's not fail safe and just goes to the bottom port and not the top and bleed it of electronically. or are my settings wrong. Ramp and gain and all that stuff?

Road tuning, I need a mentor Hello, finally got my rb30 running. It was definatly worth it. Boost comes on earlier etc. still thinking about running 8cm rear housing cause there's not enough tourque for me. It's got plenty of power don't get me wrong. Ive got a feeling it has to do with timing comming on to boost .I'm currently road tuning. Found a copilot so I don't have to think to much.

Stock r33 boost gauge mod Hello. I was wanting to know if anyone has used there map sensor for voltage and used some kind of resistor or somthing to re calabrate there in dash boost gauge and used a sticker to overlay the old format and convert to Psi. (33 gtst) And I understand (factory boost gauge is not accurate). Mine is redundant but I'd love to bring it back to life and get rid of the piller mount fully sick autometer glow in the dark carbon fibre chrome cup setup.

My t67 was hitting the rocker covers sitting on the 6 boost. i just rotated the compress housing till the outlet was pointing to the ground and it fits then made my cooler piping from there. Its hard to see in the dark photo. It's on a 25/30, also fitted on my 25

100 bux

Wtb rb25 coil cover Wanted rb25 coil pack cover. I'm after the stock one series 2 with the little tab on the back to hold the fuse looking thing. And wiring

Think I found my answers. z145a has anti drain built in. And there's other filters with bypass built in incase the filter gets blocked. Which I'm guessing is what is on the rb25 oil filter mount.

One way oil filter. Is it required? Hello, I installed a oil filter relocation kit and cooler on my rb25 and had the hoses were the wrong way. Smashed that motor in minutes! Anyway. I now have an rb25/30. It has a sandwich plate and oil cooler . The oil filter is mounted to the sandwich plate rather than being relocated. So my oil lines can't have the wrong orientation on this setup. What I'm wondering is what oil filter do I run cause on the 25 when I removed the oil heat exchanger and mount it had that one way looking ball bearing thing. As now it's just a stem on the 30 block with the sandwich plate mounted to it. Im guessing the rb30 single cam either had a one way in the filter or just never ran it at all. The might sound like dumb question but I've made dumb mistakes. im thinking if it didn't have one way then start up would have no oil Mabey? I'd love to start my new engine but still scratching my head

Located in broome. Wa 6725 I forgot to say there's a hand controller aswell.

Has to come as a package sorry bud.

For sale, power fc, datalogit and cables,z32 afm x2 and pig tail, apexi boost controller and wiring harnes Suit rb25 r33. $1000

This just gets better. But how do you set ure idle? Throttle body screw?

Thanks for the reply. I have a freddy manifold so genuine parts won't fit

hey, can I remove the zinc coated t piece from r33 s2 AAC valve and tap a npt fitting that adapts to an10 so I can run a braided hose to the cooler for idle controll? The reason I'm doing this is it never gets below 30 where I live. I have no reason for cold start so I'll remove that black box and its air lines. Once I put my rb2530 in its home i don't want any chance of air leaks in awekward places. Hence the reason I've removed all heater hoses aswell. While I'm thinking about it. My AAC valve could be replaced aswell. The idle screw is crappy/stripped and the o ring is botched with somthing I found. It works ok. But it used to leak. I'd rather just a complete new unit. Although I haven't searched and ure gonna crucify me.. Where do I get a cheap replacement or alternative?

Thanks heaps for that mate. I'll do as u do, join them but I'll leave my bleeder at the rear of the block raised to where the clutch master cylinder is. That way if I go water cooled turbo I've got a feed ready to go. By the way u know the heater feed behind the water pump that is pressed in? I've bashed it out from the front when I had the pump of to clean it up as it was a little rusty and I've deleted the little t piece that comes off to eliminate more hose clamps. What I was wondering was do they just bash back in with a rubber hammer with some sealant like silicone or jbweld? I'm not sure what to do. I could tap a thread there and use somthing like a barb or an10. Don't really want to tho.

Hey, just putting my car back togeather with my rb30 and gonna remove the heater hoses as I live in a very hot climate and have never used it. The positives are not having random leaks in hard to get to places. My turbo is also not water cooled. Freddy manifold. So the question is.. Do I cap the two heater hose outlets or do I join them up? Ones on the back of the block and ones where the water pump is.. U guys know the ones. I need to keep one of the smaller ones that tees of at the back of the block and rais it above the head for a air bleeder. At least that's how I had it originally and it worked a treat. An I never had any over heating problems. Also. I have a what I would call a mint condition rb25det bottom end that i want to go to a good home for free. All u have to pay is freight from post code 6725. I can provide photos 175000kms

$450 and I'll pay post