Ruthr33

Ok for thoes listening, I've got the fueling sorted. Just adjusted the water correction tables. Was way too rich. Got em 13.5 at 30^deg. It's punchier. I've got this stupid miss fire I can't get rid of. Here's the symptoms. Idle sounds lumpy/smooth And when I hold it at 1500 2000 2500 3000 it sounds like a fully sick lumpy cam gtr! (Not the sound I want) Seems to rev ok. Las time I drove it had the miss but boosted 18psi sideways at the track just fine all day! I chucked a new set of plugs in, changed the gap from .8 to 9.3 didn't make a difference. Changed afm to a spare one. Made no difference. Removed bov still nothing. Starts better tho. I've got a feeling it's the cas but don't want to throw 500 bux at it. I'm over it. What else can I check? 02 is newish Got spitfires there newish Band new injectors/pump

Hey. Just ironing out my engine problems. I got a dyno tune and the car runs mint. I didn't have time to leave it at the shop for cold start tuning and its unavailable where i live. So I might give it a go. It's also got a slight miss on idle and at low revs. It's real hard to hear but it's sometimes there. Ive got power fc, hand controller, datalogit and wide band. The issue I'm having is the car wouldn't start first pop when it's dead cold. My engine temp never gets colder than 30 cause of my location. It sometimes took 3 goes. So I had a read up and first things first I took the atmo bov off and smashed it with a hammer! I've blocked the vacume line. The car starts first time now. The issue I have is for the first minit of warming up it has a real flat spot after that it's fineThe engine doesn't want to rev. Not that I want to bash the limiter or anything. Let's just say my girlfriend wanted to shift my car first thing in the morning, turns the key, lets the clutch go, gives it some gas and it will stall or coughf.

Yeh that's the one I looked at. Thanks mate. Anyways because I'm a bull at a gate I've taken the back Bung off and replaced and sprayed it with canola oil, put the cas back in and fired it up with no timing gun just ruff marks. No pump belt ac belt or power steer belt.. And guess what. The knock has gone. Brilliant. Still gonna change the bearing tho. At least I know that was the problem.

3 hours of searching and found it. Aem electronics have a rebuild page.. Needed to take the Mitsubishi rubber out and bang the shaft out from there.

Got to here. Do and how do I knock the pin out to replace the bearing? Is there a bearing in the back? Still sounds crunchy when I spin it. How do I get there?

Hey, got a quiet knocking noise from the front and sometimes a miss fire on idle. Suspected timing belt too loose cause I forgot to turn the engine twice before setting the tension. So I've pulled it apart, and I found the cas bearing sounds stuffed. Can I rebuild it? I would buy a new one but I live in broome, 2 weeks wait for anything, For sake of a $4 bearing I'll give it a go.

The setup is power fc, z32 afm, bosch 550cc, bosch 044 pump, tsmart fpr Freddy mani, 6boost mani, tsmart 40 external. Oil and air cooler. Stock cam vct. 3" exhaust with shitty press bends No access to e85.

The setup is power fc, z32 afm, bosch 550cc, bosch 044 pump, tsmart fpr Freddy mani, 6boost mani, tsmart 40 external. Oil and air cooler. Stock cam vct. 3" exhaust with shitty press bends No access to e85.

From what I've read they spool 500rpm earlier on 3l. So with the setup I have that would be a big enprovment. Boosting 5000 1st 4500 second and 4200 third is like mine. I think 3582 on 3l will be too much. I'm not after a drag car with peak power. The way I'm looking at it is I made 350hp at the wheels with 2.5 and t67. If I were to up th cc to 3l and run a smaller turbo gt3076 .82, I could easily make 350hp but I'll be boosting at 3800 4000 in first. Am I on the rite track?

Hey peoples, I'll keep it simple Got a rb25 t67 kinugawa 18psi bp98 Made 350hp at hubs. Took it to the track and had a drift. I lived my dream. The car is sitting in the garage and there's a rb30 block next to it. I've only driven it once it was nice. I'm gonna put the rb30 in there now cause I like spinning spanners. What I'm after is less lag and more wheel spin. It's just for the street now and I want an animal. I'm looking at Garrett gt3076 .82 I'm not after hp, just spinning tyres. What about gtx range? Or .63

I had the same dramas, Tried both z32 and q45 afm, car was always stalling and running like a rabbit with a broken leg Runs like a dream now.. No hiccups or stalling. I can't even make it stall

Oh yeh. The afrs are 14.-14.7 at this point. I'm not a tuner but I'm guessing it needs a lil bit of enrichment to keep it happy like a choke. Mabey around 12. But then what do I know.

Hey. Gotta take the old skyline to get sum suspension tommoro. App at 730 in the morning. Car runs pretty well in all areas for now except cold start. Mechanically I've been over everything many times. I've just put new injectors of a similar size injectors. My problem for now is it's hairy when cold. Too much throttle and it will die. I think my injectors are slightly smaller than previous ones. I had 550 and I think these are 525 ish Mabey even 500. Anything I can to with my laptop to get it out the driveway in the morning without having to belt the shit out of it?

Hey. Got my parts. I can vision leaks thow. They look nice This green oring at injector nossle seems .5mm od too small but I could see it seating good when I bolt rail on putting pressure on it The oring on the boss/adaptor seems to fat to fit into manifold, the adaptor fits snug. So Mabey a thinner oring will Winn this. This blue oring fits squeaky tight into the rail, just how you would like it. Although, can u see the flange head looking bit on top of the injector? I can see that bottoming out on the injector rail cavity and not allowing the oring to be squashed under pressure. Although the plus side is injector would sit square to the rail. Is this right? I was thinking Mabey grind the flange off or drill the hole In the rail bigger. Or Mabey that's the way it's spose to be?

I'm Thinkn ditch the afm for my car aswell. But for the guys talking about popping an intercooler pipe I could think of 10 ways for 10 bux to fix that. Not 3000g How many hookers and beers could u get for 2990 bux?

An nothing local about where I'm located in broome. 2000kms from perth, 2000kms from darwin. The joys.

Yikes, I didn't get to read that before I had a couple beers an got on ebay. Got 6 48mm ev14 550cc with uscar to denso adaptors for 300 bux Also got aeroflow fuel rail and 5/16 hose adapters for 210. Hope I haven't jumped the gun and got the wrong ones.

Just gonna bin them. And get new bosch and top feed rail. I'll search first but I'm just gonna throw it out there real quick, Where do I get the cheapest set and rail to suit greddy manifold. Any particular size or model I have to get to fit? Lastly, anyone want my denso 550 in rail? 150 bux.

One more thing., more chances of leaks. Hoses everywhere, they look crappy orange. Hard to mount in the correct position. I'm not sure with yours but my oil pressure gauge had to be mounted there aswell and that was a cross threaded head ache. Re tap- leaking nightmare. I hope I've talked you out of it. When do you change your oil? 6 months?.. Get over it and leave it. I will take you 6 months to sort all the added problems. Mount a oil cooler if your gonna touch anything around there.

Oh yeh. So I looked at the universal one u posted. That's the exact one I got but came with the cooler. I had leaks and when I rung 999 automotive They sent out a whole new kit for free. So they must be cheap. Anyway. That one leaked too. So ended up getting speed flow fittings. Cost me heaps. And the filter is a honda filter. Z79a So throw any spare skyline ones u might have away

I brought a universal one with 19 row oil cooler. Had no leaks where the adaptor joins to the block. Only leaks on the an10 fancy fittings. Changed to speed flow an all was good. Also. Note for r33 Needs oil filter stalk from rb30/20 for adapter to mount

My car idles perfectly fine, I also only use 64% duty The question is. one cylinder 5.1 percent leaner = melted piston? Or.. 5 cylinders over compensating to get 14.7 afrs= loss of power. In a nut shell. Should I recon Buy new Or leav them be. It lives it's life on the limiter aswell

When he tested at 2500 rpm it came up diferent 0.0 0.0 0.6 0.6 2.4 3.0% It does seam odd.

Hello. Got my injectors tested 650rpm 1600 pulses 0.0 -0.6 -2.6 -2.6 -2.6 -5.1% What do you reckon? There denso 550 Service? Throw away? Chuck them in and giv em a go?

Afr is lean when I back off, I'll check if it goes rich again, Fuel press set at stock. 37.5 from memory. The only tune I hav was road tuned via the internet. (I live in the desert) I have all the tuning gear but inexperienced The O2 was disabled and it run dog rich, When I enabled it it cleared up a lot of problems It's 14.7 in most cruise situations although it was around 16 straight after tune and then changed to 13.5