Lrs94

Boost leak ?

Does it crank slow ? Like a flat battery ? Could be your starter motor solenoid sticking/faulty, a friend had an old hilux that would start fine when cold but once up to running temperature, if he turned it off he wouldn't be able to start it for a few hours till engine was cool again.

Any idea what sort of boost and power I could expect with stock springs ?

Having trouble trying to find info on the rb25 de head out of r33 gts, if I was to use it in a rb25/30 conversion, what sort of boost could I run with stock valve springs ? 7 psi 10psi 14 psi ? How hard is it to change valve springs ? I read that the rb25 de and det have the same cams duration and lift is this correct ? Can I drop rb25 det injectors into rb25 de fuel rail?

Link ? So just using a single restrictor is best option ?

Just a few questions, I have read a lot of threads and articles, about oil controll set ups, What is the best way to go about the oil resrictors to the head, some people don't bother and just leave them the standard 1.8 mm some say 1.5mm,1mm and 0.8 mm, some block one off and just use a single 1.5 mm. I know it depends on what the car is built for ie drag, drift ect, what is a good combination for a street car that only sees the occasional redline/ 6k rpm Can I get away with no resrictors ? What has worked for you ? Can I use majority of my rb20 parts ? Alternator, starter, tps sensor, O2 sensors, airflow meter oil pressure wiring loom ect ?

I have a few panels, what paint gun did you use ?

I'm in Perth and pay $40 for a pair, that's removing myself and taking to shop.

Can I just swap bell housing or not that easy ?

I was wondering if anyone on here has had any experience with airless paint guns ? Some panels on my car are damaged and I am wanting to clean them up, and instead of buying a compressor, airline and paint gun I could just by an airless paint gun for $100. Will I be able to get it looking half reasonable ?

Will a z32 manual gear box bolt up to and rb motor ? I have read different things I assume I would need a new tailshaft made up ? Because and rb25 box cost about 1k on average where as I can get and 300zx one for practically nothing, and have read they are virtually the same box. Thanks

That's is normal temp, I wouldn't worry mine sits about 102 degrees according to nistune

Boost leak will affect sensors as well, your intake sytem may have a leak, so your turbo is working extra hard and pushing large amounts of air through your system, but not all the air your turbo is pushing out is getting to your engine, which means your air flow meter will be giving false air measurements to your ecu, and this will give you a bad air/fuel mixture depending on how bad the leak is, and may cause your car to run like shit.

If it smells like rotten eggs that is a sign on a bad cat, you can try tapping it and seeing if it sounds hollow or if it sound solid. take it for a drive so your car is nice and hot and measure the temp on each side of your cat, should be roughly same temp. But I am with Ben on this one, pressure test your system, I was having a lot of problems and I never bothered to pressure test because I didn't think I had any leaks as I still saw 7 psi on boost gauge, decided to test it as I ran out of ideas and turned out a weld along the side of my Intercooler was split. Car run like new now haha

I had similar problem, car would run fine, on low boost around 7psi right the way up to redline, but above 14psi, the the whole car would shake violently and hard back and forth, and would not go past 7psi. Like I hit a rev limit/ speed limiter. I was sure it was not a boost leak as both my gauges read 7psi, I was sure it would be my ignition system breaking down somewhere along the line or fuel system. I plugged laptop in ecu, and everything was working fine, coil packs checked out fine, all my sensors worked fine on laptop. In the end it turned out one of the welds my Intercooler had a big split 150 mm, got it welded up, runs like new again. Am still puzzled to why both of my boost gauges read 7 psi, when I had such a huge leak Hope that can be of some help.

Check for boost leaks,

Both turbos are rb25, same turbo it ran 14 psi perfectly fine before, it has nistune type 2 board, which has be tuned not long ago.

So I recently bought an old r32, when I got the car it was running fine at 14 psi, but the turbo seals where gone on turbo and used to blow a little smoke under load, so I swapped it with and rb25 turbo, and this is where my trouble begins, if I run the factory 7 psi the car runs perfect all the way up to redline, but I want a bit more than 7 psi, so I put the old 14 psi actuator on the new turbo, and soon as it goes above 7ps in any gear the wholes car just kind of, shakes/stutters/hesitates quiet violently back and forth. I disconnected the line to the actuator, so now the only thing controlling the boost should be my foot on the throttle, but same thing happens, soon as I go over 7 psi the whole car, shakes/stutters, and you cant get past this point, ie, can rev any higher/gain speed, until you change gear. things I have tried. -different actuators -different turbo - gapped plugs -checked coil packs (they look fine to me, but might try tape them) -changed fuel filter -check led on ecu no fault codes -cleaned afm with contact cleaner checked for boost/vacuum leaks (I am sure there is no boost leaks as I can see boost from about 2.2k rpm should be getting a consult cable this week so hopefully that will shed some light, just want some more ideas on where to look, what to look for, what would limit boost ?

It sounds fine, to me it seems like fuel or ecu is cutting it out, like it builds up above 0.5 bar and drops back and builds up and drops and you can't get past it, but it previously was running 1 bar fine so I don't understand what could be wrong with it

So I recently bought an old skyline of a friend, it was running 1 bar boost pressure (standard rb25 with bigger rear housing) and ran perfectly fine, but turbo used to blow bit of smoke while under load, so it was replaced with a standard rb25 turbo (ceramic blades) and works perfectly fine upto 0.5 bar (roughly standard boost) but anything more than that it, makes the car shudder/shake/jolt violently, like a huge flat spot, that you can not get past, I checked all my coil packs visual and measured resistance every thing was fine, checked my plugs they all looked fine checked gaps, replaced fuel filter. I don't think it is a fuel issue or exhaust blockage, because when you set boost 0.5 bar it happily revs to 7k rpm,. Going to do compression test soon. I have search all over Internet and can't find anything, I was wondering if any one has heard of anything like this or may know the possible cause, it is hard to describe over Internet, be easier to show,