Ry_R34GTT

Thanks for the reply's. They do look better ceramic coatedhaha. Does anyone know what the power limit is on the stock manifold? and where i can source a new one?

Hey all i recently started pulling down my RB25 DET due to a loss in power and i was planning to send my turbo away to GCG to get it Hi-Flowed anyways. In the process i found a substantial crack in my exhaust manifold so now i am re thinking the hi flow option as now i need a new exhaust manifold. My end goal is running 300rwkw which i knew was a stretch for a Hi-Flowed anyway. My question is now that i need a new manifold am i better off getting an aftermarket manifold and t3/t4 turbo or just replacing it with a stock one and running the Hi-Flowed?

I know im just a little slow haha I believe all my problems have gone away now after i fixed the boost leak and cleaned the IAC Valve. No weird idle and car has alot more power but kinda feels like it pulls back slightly once it hits boost. Thanks for the advice tho Hadouken was very helpful

idle is still low and drops even lower when A/C is turned on. AAfter some research i should be cleaning the AAC Valve?

Went for a drive and she is pulling harder than she ever has been and my boost gauge was only hitting 7 psi instead of 10? Then i popped a hose that i must not have tightened properly but i lovely lady with a 200 sx came running out of her house with tools so could get it home haha

So i started her up and she started fine and went to die. Gave a little bit of throttle and she settled on idle so i let her warm up for a bit. Revs through the rev range beautifully but now at idle she sounds like shes missing occasionally so i disconnected each coil pack one by one and it sounded worse every time so the coil packs arent the problem. This problem is unrelated btw it was doing this for a week or so before she died.

sorry for the late reply i have been away. All the other plugs looked perfectly fine as i replaced them maybe 4 months ago or so but one was black and dry none were wet. Just before i went away i found a rather big split in one of the main intake hoses and i have just replaced that but the battery is dead so i have to wait for it to charge to see if it changed anything.

so i just pulled the plugs and only 1 of the plugs was dry carbon fouled. would that be enough to stop it from idling?

I have had a really good look and there is nothing as far as i can tell.

unplugged AFM and still no idle. FMIC was fitted about 3 months ago

Wouldn't a boost leak big enough to shut the car down after start up be massive?

Hey so i have googled and searched through the forums quite a bit and would still like a second opinion. For a while my 34 was having coil pack issues, one cylinder not firing occasionally and sounding like a truck/loss of power. The other day i was driving as per normal and all of a sudden under throttle i was losing all power and felt like MASSIVE drag so i pulled over. At this point it was idling fine and would rev through the rev range perfectly but once in first gear id take off normally and after about 2 meters it would have a huge power loss and drag. I managed to get the car home 2 meters at a time as i didn't want to leave it on the street (really bad area) and then had to reverse up my drive way as it was the only way i could get it up there ( too much power loss in first but not in reverse). I let it sit for a bit and now when i start it it starts perfectly and then dies straight out. If i giver it some throttle it is fine but is spitting out black soot and will stall once it hits idle. After hours of research i came up with the either AFM was not working, vacuum leak or faulty idle switch. So i pulled it apart the AFM and re soldered it and still no good. My question remains is the AFM faulty or is the idle switch faulty? any ideas? Kinda losing my mind haha

I did read that but struggled to make sense of it somewhat as i cant see the pictures? im a noob haha So basically without even fitting the boost tee i can get the 10 psi im after just by re routing the hoses and drilling out that small brass restrictor?

Another question thats rather off topic but seeings as we are here lol I went and bought my boost tee and when i was fitting it i noticed a small brass restrictor in the hose going to the waste gate. If i was to remove this wouldn't i get more boost and not even have to use the boost controller? or am i being retarded? Edit I think i relaise im being retarded cos then i would have no way off controlling how much is being bled off. should i remove the restrictor before fitting the boost tee?

If those parts start to fail they were probably not far off it anyway so im all good with that. was more concerned with running lean than anything,

Thanks Bob/Mathew, exactly the info i was after didn't want to get it tuned right away if i didn't have to but was worried i was going to cause damage.

Thanks for all the info, guess il get it tuned after the Christmas break when tuners are actually open haha

Ok so i just rang Croyden Racing Developments in Sydney and he suggested a Nistune for $1450. Which includes the Nistune, installation and tuning. Is that a reasonable price? and am i running the risk of damage by waiting to get the Nistune?

So that rules out a road tune lol but more importantly am i currently in need of a tune? or can i get away with throwing a boost controller setting and 10 psi and being happy with it?

Hey so i have just finished all the basic mods on my r34 gtt. Full 3 inch turbo back exhaust with high flow cat, Blitz FMIC and High flow panel filter. I was reading up on fitting a manual boost controller to set it at 10 psi which is apparently the safe limit but came across alot of people suggesting with these mods a tune is a must or i could be causing damage to my engine. Still new to all this and i do apologize if this has been covered previously but i was getting confused with all the different info out there. Also found out there is no good tuners in Newcastle apparently? but there are people who can do road tunes. Are there any positives or negatives between the two?

right that makes sense Will the aftermarket BOV still release air in the same way then if i dont remove it?

ok so i disconnected the small tube that was running to the after market BOV and reconnected it to the Stock one and my car feels like it runs amazingly better but somehow its now running at .8 bar instead of .5 bar which is awesome but id like to know why.

This was how the car was when i got it. Is the factory one better? If i was to connect the old one can i just leave the aftermarket one there so i dont have to plug the hole? and do i just plug the recirc hose back into the old one for it to work? sorry about all the questions haha

Hey guys i bought my gtt roughly about a year ago and haven't modified a single thing so far. I started investigating why my car would stall when i pulled up to the lights sometimes and found that if the bov is fitted after the airflow meter and inst recirculating then the air to fuel ratio can be out after i have been pushing the car. After more research i realized that my bov is fitted in what seems to be an odd spot so i am just curious if anyone has any ideas P.S I Kinda mostly have no idea what im on about Also not sure if i posted this in the correct spot