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Sorry not seperating the harness, Please pm me your number and i can send some pics through of the plenum. The cooler is yet to be located but i am still sorting through mountains of parts. Thanks, Zeke

The silver 34 gtr bar includes the diffuser and engine cover section

Hi Allissa, Thanks for the reply, I did give it a try but it still didnt fix my idle. I found if i unplugged it and adjusted the idle manually its not to bad. I have put an r33 aircon system in as i wanted it to be good for taking the kids on car cruises. i havnt wired it in yet but that may be causing my issue. I took the car out drifting last week at a private track day and the driveline pulled up great. I have a lot more to do on the car, but its good to drive it for a while. Thanks, Zeke

Hey guys, i have received your pm's, im just waiting on pics from my friend for your requested items and ill send them through asap. If anyone is interested but interstate, please send me your address and ill get a shipping quote. Thanks, Zeke

Hey guys, i am posting some items for a friend who has a ton of GTR parts to sell. If you see anything of interest and want more information just shoot me a message. Awaiting pics from him, will upload them as soon as i have them. Location: All items are located in Adelaide SA Willing to post: Items can be posted at buyers expense Trust td06 20g turbo set up rb26, turbos rebuild 50mm trust gate $4500 R34 power FC dejetro used complete hand controller maps etc $1100 New power FC dejetro r32 r33 Gtr complete controller maps $1400 R32 R33 Gtr autronic SM4 plug in ecu Special order no longer available plugs directly into oem engine harness $2800 Bnr34 OS giken twin plate with push pull conversion kit used $1700 Nismo pull type slave cylinder new$190 Hks afm replacement pipe alloy 80mm x2 2x Hks air filters new $220 2x billet hks style bell mouth turbo inlet $200 ea Blitz Gtr air pod kit $225 Greddy oil cooler thermostat discontinued New $240 Greddy oil cooler and remote filter rb $700 Oil cooler kit earls core rb $550 R33/34 ADR approved braided brake lines new $540 Defi boost gauge $150 Top secret igniter holder rb new $70 Trust clear timing cover rb26 $75 Hks rb26 f con v pro gold and loom $850 R34 Gtr front bar and lower lip black $650 Silver with lower lip, difuzer (average condition) and engine cover section $900 R33 cat back mild steel kakamoto $300 R33 cat back stainless hks $450 R32 cat back jap brand $350 Hks Gtr inter cooler 600x300x102 $600 Trust gtr inter cooler 600x300x70 $450 New apexi spl inter cooler discontinued v tube core $1600 Greddy rb26 plenum $600 Thanks, Zeke

Hey guys just updating for future peoples ventures. The turning right issue was a faulty body earth issue, once i ran a seperate earth from the battery to the body all was resolved. I do still have a vacume leak and no power steering, but slowly getting the car fixed up.

Thanks Jeff, I haven't been able to find the vaccum leak as yet i can hear it but soapy water and throttle cleaner hasn't helped pin point it. My friend who is a mechanic told me a trick he uses which is with the engine off blow a mouth full of tobacco smoke through the brake booster vaccum hose and the smoke will rise where the leak is. Looking forward to giving that a try and hopefully fixing it. Is resetting the ecu as simple as disconnecting the battery overnight?

With the the aac unplugged i can control the revs perfect via the idle screw and its perfect, car has a little miss on idle but comes good once the revs build which i beleive is the vacume leak. As soon as the aac is plugged in the idle screw does not give enough adjustment to bring it down. I put $40 fuel in yesterday and took it for a drive, still cuts out. All the electrics cut in and out and the engine stalls in within a second and its back and keeps driving. Its really got me stumped as it doesn't do it sometimes. But when it does if i were turning past on coming traffic i would probaly die. Even with the car warmed up the aac still shoots the revs up to 1300rpm, unplug it and i its close to perfect.

Hi everyone, I am new to the forum here as i have recently purchased my first Nissan. It was a rolling R32 4 door shell and in the last couple weeks i dropped a rb20, 5speed, and r200 into it and just working out the final kinks before it hits the road. If anyone has any ideas it would be great because i have been stuck on some of these for a while now. The first issue is that occasionally when turning right, all the electrical power is cut to the car and it stalls and gets itself going again. This is what i have done so far to try and find the issue. 1) Checked the loom in the wheel archs, no damage to them and the car is factory height. 2) Pulled the steering coloum apart and checked/jiggled anything i could find. 3) Disconnected the power steering 4) Made sure the battery terminals are good, and the battery clamped down. 5) wiggled any electical connection i could find, and nothing. A few things to note are; The car has had the rear subframe swapped and does not run a hicas system. The ecu has been disconnected and im running a r33 P/S pump. The car has an alarm installed which is working 100% but i have thought maybe it is somehow cutting ignition. The car seems to be using a ton of fuel and maybe i have a fuel pump issue and when turning right the fuel is sloshing away from the pickup. The second issue i have is a vacume leak near the rear of the intake manifold, i can hear it on idle and sprayed some soapy water today and although i couldnt see it still i could hear the note change. I have recently replaced the IACV so i dont think that is it, but i just cant find the culprit. The thrid issue i have is if i plug in the AAC the idle jumps up to ~1300rpm and i cant get it down, if i unplug it the car idles great and drives fine builds boost no problems but i would still like to find out why it is happening and fix it. I have also installed a R33 complete airconditioning system and need to wire it up, if anyone has a wiring diagram that would be great. Thanks, Zeke