Sm3g

15V+ is far to high, your alternator is over charging. Test your battery with engine off, what do you get?

Na it was a wb ute with a t400 and 350chev. I still havnt fixed it yet due to blowing diff. OP: What damage, if any, will this cause to your gearbox/drive line?

I am no expert but I was told once when I brought a different car that the tail shaft was imballanced and when it got upto around 70km's plus it would shake the whole car. Something to think about maybe?

Where did all your oil go?

Haha yeah I had enough drama fitting it back in with the correct bush, good effort. Curious was the OD the right size and inside not or vise versa?

Ahhh ok, so was it to big or too small? Also what other damage did it cause, how did you notice?

^^^ If the box was out and you could wiggle the input shaft slightly would this tell you the same?

I see, it does look like it put up a good fight So was that due to no grease/anti-sieze do you think?

When you say spigot bearing do you mean the splines of the input shaft into the clutch splines or the release bearing?

Good news!! Got the gear box back in with the new bearing and it works perfect! I put the failure down to hardened grease on the input shaft of the gear box not letting the bearing slide back in swiftly. I cleaned up the flywheel with dry scotch bright (green scour) to get rid of some heat spots and general muck off them. Also removed all dust and old caked grease off everything. When I installed the clutch/box back in I didn't put any grease on anything. The clutch grabs and releases like it should now, no slipping or noise. It even looses some traction when dropping the clutch into 3rd, mind you the tyres are a tad worn (50%) and the surface was fairly smooth. All in all glad I tried the bearing first and cleaned it up rather than spending 1-2k on a new clutch straight away. Thanks for all the help to people, much appreciated!!!

Haha what is that awesome looking ball called?

Did changing the contact fix the problem?

hahaha I like it Can't seem to find any on gumtree or ebay, I will ring around. Any one know any Perth w/shops that would more than likely have them?

Definately sounds like a wiring issue. Illiminate that as a cause before spending money.

R34 GTT RB25Det

Hey people as the title states I would like to know what the metal flange/seal is called which bolts onto your bell housing and sits behind the flywheel? Also if anyone knows where to get them cheap. Cheers!

It will be a daily driver, cruises, moving items some times and the odd skid.

Well had two wins today... Exedy got back to me with this; The 25017 Pressure Plate is our Sports Cover Part No NC-11T The Plate we use under this cover is a Sports Plate ND-20H The Bearing is a pull Type Part No Brg-601 If you purchase a NSK-7172SO you would have all components listed above The NSD-140U IS A 350Z Plate The NSK-7172SO kit would cater for 275 Kw at the wheels Not sure why a 350Z plate is on the skyline but any way I will stick with it for now, just got a bearing and alignment tool from http://www.cbaus.com.au for $75, they were the only ones to have the part on site and also the cheapest (Perth).

I have sent a message to exedy, hopfully they can give me some info. A search with the NSD140U part number doesn't give any specs on the clutch.

your right they don't do centers, they make housings etc, my bad.

Nice reply fellas, cheers! Thanks for clearing up the LSD issues with the BW, I was going to look at them but not now. My ute has a 350 chev (not sure on HP) and the diff was a 6cyl small salisbury, one skid and it spat teeth every where. I will look into the hilux diff. Do you know the difference, if any, between Strange and KAAZ centers?

Ahhh yes, I have heard some where you can use VN diffs. Are they borg warner? I was unsure how tuff they would be, just doing some ground work at the moment. Do you know how much HP they can handle?

I am in Perth at the moment. Also what VF are you talking about?

Do you know of anyone who has tried this Ben? I have had a basic search on the net and not much info as yet

There is a lot of black dust in the bell housing and on the clutch its self. The flywheel does look like its got a lot of heat marks on it, not so much on the GB side of the clutch but the engine side for sure. The last dyno was about 4 years ago and it said it was pulling 250 kW at wheels. After the first burn out, I did a service on it (changed GB oil, Diff oil, engine oil/filter, yet to change fuel filter till i change my lines). After the service it wouldn't get back into gear while the engine was running, so I stressed for a couple of days researching and went back out and it started working again. I took it for a small lap around the block being uber cautious not reving high at all, so I'm not sure if it was slipping at high power out put whilst moving. Prior to the first burnout it was not slipping at all. After this I was about to take the clutch out and inspect so I decided to drop another burn out, this time it wouldn't grab at all (no wheel spin) on already baldish tyres.