Weaselman

Cheers for that mate. I'll have to actually bend down and look properly lol.

Stud as in one of the water pump bolts? Or the threaded stud the front timing cover shroud slips over?

Can anyone tell me what the little tang on an RB timing belt tensioner spring rests against when you re install it? I cant bloody remember and its driving me nuts.

Already done mate. I'd never trust an old part in a new system. Also I'm setting the cut out fairly high so even accounting for delay It should have enough pressure in the system to minimize damage. I.e. If you set the relay to trip when the needle drops below a quarter on the gauge you should still be cutting the spark before its down to a critical level.

The micro controller is going to read the voltage off the oil pressure sender and when if it drops below a certain level when the engine is running flat out it will trip a relay that will kill the power to the coils and protect the engine. I'm racing in a flying mile event later in the year so this is just some built in insurance as my ECU doesnt support parameters to do this without expensive modification. I've whipped this system up for about $50 and installed it in the car with an override switch for cold starting and a set of warning lights to get my attention. I wanted to have the spark cut if the pressure drops at high RPM and boost to allow me to stop the car with enough oil in the system to protect the internals. So before the factory light comes on or the gauge drops past where I want it too. Its a shits an giggles project that I can install in any car I want like my cruiser or my wifes 260RS Autech for minimal money and without any serious modification to wiring.

Cheers Dobz

Hello ladies and gents. Can anyone tell me if a GTR N1 oil pump will direct fit to an RB20 block and crank? Also my RB is a 92 model will it require a crankshaft collar. Thanks heaps.

I'll never say no to a diagram but I know what you are driving at.

Thankyou kindly. I was hoping to work around the system but seeing as it shares the same sender I'll have to re think it slightly.

Cheers mate thats a big help. Do you know if RB's use a seperate switch for low oil? And if so where does it hide. Or does it rob a signal off the sender for the guage?

Something to look at but If I can find out how the stock ones work I can write it into the code without the need for a spressure switch that costs more than what I need to spend for the micro controller and switching relays.

Would anyone know the ohm range of stock RB series oil pressure senders? I.E. what would the ohms be for upper pressure indication on the guage and lower. I have an RB20 DET and need to know the range to program a micro controller to do some fancy things. Any help is much appriciated.

Thanks mate.

Whats a few bucks. Im embarrassed enough as it is lol. Thanks man.

I might take the 32 out and get some Transmax Z No point going against your reccomendations. Thanks for the sticky.

What do you put in the transfer Duncan? I cant get the factory Nissan stuff here. Was going to use penrite DX 3

It had enough to keep the gears damp. The boss only drive it to work and to the shops. Im hoping the seals held and it all was from the breather as it looks the case... My missus is having fun laughing at me and demaning its fixed by tomorrow... Or shes taking the skyline... Noooooooooooo

Wait hold on... Im a f**king idiot. I filled the transfer case instead because I forgot its not my GTST and I went through the top of the gearbox housing. I havent driven far or hard on it so I hope I havent blown all the seals out of it but we'll see... Yes I'm embarrassed. Yes I admit it lol Its only done 20 or so km's so I hope I havent hurt it

Was out with the wife in her 260RS Autech today when we noticed a smell. Pulled over and the entire underside of the car was drenched in oil. We nursed it home as it wasnt far and there as about half a litre left in it. It seems to have come from high on the drivers side of the bell housing but Im not sure as I cant see anything that it could have come from. Ran reccomended oil. Did a change on it last week and It had plenty of oil in it then in good condition. Could it have pumped out the breather? Ive no Idea and need help in trouble shooting. Car is a 98 Nissan Stagea 260RS Autech with 100,000 on it Engine and driveline is R33 GTR. Thanks for any advice. Its sitting on jack stands atm and Im scratching my head.

Brembo's as standard on the Autech too

The EPA fine for modifying your emissions system (i.e. cat) can be up to $25,000 if they really don't like you.

Nothing wrong with the RB20 at all. I used to get alot of hate from posers because I spent money on my 20 but why not? Its f**king fast and easy to get parts for so why change it?

Well I personally run a Greddy throttle body and a slightly larger intake on my RB20. I did it for insurance as I run a Precision turbo PT5558. I will however admit that I had professional assistance building my engine.

Bigger injectors and turbo will require an aftermarket ECU and some dyno time for the security of not blowing everything to bits. I personally would look at a Haltech or similar also you'll need things like quality fittings on the fuel system and bigger fuel rail ect. Also a bigger throttle body and a halfway decent intake plenum help. Oil coolers are a must too since you live in aus. I know its money but over engineering things for slightly higher than your aiming is never a bad thing. Also a quality boost controller with individual boost profiles is good too. I use a Greddy pro comp2 and have a low and high setting for regular driving/ rain and going fast.

CAMS approved removable steering wheel boss. Cant nic it if the wheel is locked up in your house with the keys in a safe. Also an electrical isolator with removable switch is key too.