Jordy32

So yes, there should be a small gold coloured adaptor which goes in the larger hole to space it down for a 1/8 npt fitting, part number 16400519 Here is a few listings for those fittings. http://www.nengun.com/greddy/oil-sensor-adapter Hope that's enough to point you in the right direction!

This here might help

If it's very loud it could even be welded.. As for the oil, looks like the little shaft seal is leaking and oil has been seeping out for a while. Those teeth are just the ABS sensor

heard bad things but can't speak from experience unfortunantly. I see genuine ones pop up on wreckers/facebook all the time so i'd go genuine tbh

Looking good mate. Nice to see someone using quality parts in these cars, too many slap jobs going around... Keep it up!

Running a car designed and fitted with an intercooler from factory without an intercooler is not clever, from both a logic and "thermodynamics" perspective. Driving a turbo car on your P's is stupid, just wait until your fulls. Is stock R33 turbo power really that exciting that you'd risk lots of money and your licence for?.. No it really isn't.

Fair enough. on my R32 when i put the RB25 in i used a bit of silicon rad hose from the plenum to the brake booster to get the car running and didn't have any issues. In saying that, I can see how fuel hose could possibly collapse under vaccum but you'd really need to give it a go

I've used fuel line before as a bit of a "get me home" fix and may or may not have left it on my car for months on end In my mind it's the most durable of the hoses on a car, shouldn't be any issue - $300 for a rubber hose is a joke hahah

Hey mate, thanks for the kind words! To be honest i'm fairly confident when it comes to working on my car and i have all of the tools required so these jobs are learning/fun to me. This was the first major paint/panel job i've done however and it came together fairly easily with a bit of thinking and know-how. The hardest bit was getting the skirts lined up without someone to help me hold them but clever use of painters tape and some old books to keep them propped up made it do-able Thankfully the JSAI parts fit incredibly well for replica parts, and the same can be said for the D1 spec front lip. The lip took me and a mate to get it secured on to the front bar comfortably... The main reason this was a pain is because both the front bar and lip are awkwardly shaped and we were fixing the lip to the front bar while it was balanced on top of a wheelie bin.. lol As for the time frame, i allowed a good 2 or so hours of fitting time for the skirts and pods just because you want it to line up right, mock it up a few times, look at it from different angles and then mount them up. As for the lip that took a couple of hours of painting but once it was painted it went on with the front bar in about 15 minutes. Cheers

Thanks guys

Had a bit of time on the long weekend to install my Viva Garage D1 front lip which is a replica of the URAS ER34 Front lip if you were wondering. Firstly found a nice piece of street out the back of my friends house and removed the front bumper. Unpacked the lip and rubbed back the gel coat with scotch-brite and after giving it a wash hit it with a few coats of primer Once that was dry i caoted the lip with 3 coats of satin black rattle can from supercheap. This was the hard bit, but got my 2 mates to stop working on their R32's for a second to give me a hand.. I put a few dabs of sikaflex along the bottom of the lip and bolted it on. The front lip bolts to the fastening holes along the front of the bumper which the factory "bash plate" / wind guard bolt to so keep that in mind. I let the sikaflex dry first and after that I bolted the under tray back on. Testing with the bar resting back on, pretty happy with it. Happy with that! Honestly I was expecting the worst when it came to fitment, countless posts and reviews saying how bad their products had been to fit, but this was different, this was fantastic for a fibreglass replica fit on perfectly! I should probably considering ordering another as this is sure to get blown up but hey, ill enjoy it while it lasts!

Ill slap some in my build thread now for you! http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463470-jordys-r34-gtt/#entry7694083 Give me 30 mins!

Buying a clean shell/car with blown motor and re-shelling with some mates on the weekend would probably be cheaper in R33 land Or unbolt panels and buy other silver panels, will look better than massive paint fade

Just installed a viva garage D1 / uras copy lip this weekend on my 34, fit perfectly, was pleasantly surprised actually, was expecting the worst but turned out nice!

Probably not, but you might as well take the fan off as it's doing almost nothing without the shroud in place.

WhhhhhhhhhhhhhhyyyyyYYYYyYyyyYYYYYyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy

You can leave it as is, you won't have any issues as long as the lines are looped

Consider changing your fuel filter also! Cheap and gives great peace of mind

Naturally caused by lowering the car way to much. Corrected by lifting car back up, or installing of camber arms. Hard race as linked above will do the trick

Think of larger exhaust as a support mod, it will not give you increased power right away, but is required when you want to push more boost and will help you make more power when you do that. You might feel it a little bit but that's subjective really.

bro anyone tried yellow jacket coil packs? Johnny's looks good!

Spool!

Oh yeah was a weird feeling, waking up on the weekend and not having something to tinker with or even look forward to, was odd.. Had to get back into it

Hey mate would you split the snorkel? No dramas if you can't PM if you'd like

Really not worth it, nissan did a good job