CRSRB25DE

Hold the cap in a vice with soft jaws, heat the cap up and unwind + tap the bolt using plenty of lube. Carefully deburr it and give the bearing surface a LIGHT rub with some wet/dry and crc. Line boring these heads is costly, (im an engine Recoér) Worst case scenario is get another cap (i have some spare) and then polish/sand the bearing surface until the cam spins - then sand down the parting face of the cap until there is around .0012" -.002" clearence. Have done it many times. Just be carefull!

Post a pic of the cap mate, how bad is it? You may be able to just file the burr off. You are correct in saying that the caps need to go on in the exact spot - that is the exact position as to where it was machined, and to maintain the front marks and/or keep the numbers facing the same way as the front cap. Have seen way too many people get it wrong and chew out there cams and caps and spreading crap through out the engine.

I hope people realise that there is a big difference between removing weight from a flywheel or just skimming the clutch surface....

Deck height is the same. Only difference is the piston compression height. If you use a rb26 crank, use rb26 pistons. I built a combo like this a coupla weeks ago, no probs.

Well said Proengines.

Do not use klines in these guides. Klines suck, i only use them as a last resort eg. in old v8's and heads without removable guides etc. They wear very fast and will more than likely crack the brittle inlets when being installed/broached.

Those adaptor plates require so much modifying/fixing its ridiculous. Especially for the price... It makes the OS kit actually seem like a damn good idea, i know i will be making a deck plate and sleeving next time!

An Intercooler that is "working" should have a slight pressure drop. Hot pressurised air in one end, cool dense air out the other.

Acl forged pistons are good quality japanesegarage rods on the other hand..... I bought a set for an RB30, Took at least 3 moths to arrive and they look rough as. They cost just over $1k, they advertise they cost $650 - that is for the 4cyl rods though.

I think you will find the bearings you are talking about are the roller type (for the cam belt etc) The crankshaft bearings are a plain type bearing. Clearences really need to be measured with the bearings in the block, main girdle torqued down correctly with everything clean and the crankshaft measured at the same time (to avoid temperature variation) and by using the same micrometer.

Sorry people, other commitments and drama have kept the rb34 laying around. Its pissing me off too, wanted it running along time ago. Will keep u posted when it eventually happens.

Any one else got any info? These guys need to get there shit together!!! Piss's so many people off. Is it just that bob jane needs an asskicking? I say everyone boycott bobjane tyre outlets.... (sarcastic voice) yeh that will help.

Its always a good idea to upgrade the springs with a camshaft change.

When people call there TAPPET cover a ROCKET cover. Do you really think theres are rocket under there???

It IS too good to be true

Did you read any of the other posts in this thread lachlanfox233!!??? This guy is a rip off artist mate, i would definately look elsewhere. + He hasnt been on here for months. Anyone have his number? He owes people on here money still.

7500RPM for the stroker is doable with high quality reciprocating components.

Sounds like a interesting project anyway twohungee. Keep us posted. slo-a31 there is some info about the RB34 in this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...pic=106872&st=0 happy to answer any specific questions.

I can make u a RB34 if you are interested.... but the VH45 V8 sounds like a good idea. I can re sleave and bore it out to a 4" bore and make a VH50 if you wanted some grunt, been done before. That would get it off its ars!!!

Any idea why mate?

2-3 times the tollerance out!? RB26 valve clearence is quite large to begin with - ex .38mm (.015") , in .45mm. (.0177") If your clearences were 2-3 times this it would sound like a diesel! post up what you actually measured.... You dont need a $1200 oil pump unless you are chasing big power/ high rpm. Just get your r32 crank modified using a collar that has a wider oil pump drive on it. (proengines from here makes them) and use a r33 oil pump or an N1 pump. Good luck with ya rebuild

I realise surface imperfections are stress risers, that is the main reason why I polish and shotpeen components. How do the rods get nicked to start with?

Can you ellaborate on that one please SK? (re: "stuff a H beam rod with just the slightest nick"

The head should be surfaced as flat and smooth as possible when using a MLS head gasket.

I hope hope mundine gets knocked the f**k out!!!