bilbo117

Hey guys, Got me car going again after putting on the front mount... and now, when i run ecu diagnostics im getting code 12 which is air flow meter fault. anyhow, i plugged in my diagnostics tool and while driving i found that the air flow meter value still seemed to fluctuate and such.... does anyone know the range of vaules it should be? I noticed the car had a massive deadspot at 5 grand.... and the airflow meter seemed to be hitting about 5.11V at this point in time.... any ideas? cheers.

That they are all different, even the series one and two RB25DET airflow meters are incompatible apparently! So that means im still huting for a RB25DET series one airflow meter

oh ok. One wont be suitable then cheers anyhow

Hey guys I was just wondering if anyone could let me know if the RB26DETT airflow meters are the same as RB25DET? im chasing a RB25det air flow meter and can only find rb26 ones for sale.... i doubt they are compatable but thought id ask anyhow... cheers

Im not sure are they different? am going to do some researching and check it out....

Hey mate. I ran a 13.9 with cat back exhaust, pod filter and bleed valve set to 12 pound with addition of front/dump pipe and decent tyres ran consistent 13's and nailed a 13.6 if you can drive it youll get into 13's with 500-700 bucks easily

Is anyone here willing to part with a spare working RB25DET air flow meter laying around? Let me know a price, cheers

Hey mate, Is it possible to ONLY get the Rb25 exhaust wheel at a cheaper price? as thats the only one i need Count me in regardless.

dude.... they arent wrapping the pod in a metal blanket... sperating the pod from the main heat sources of the engine bay is not going to make a significant restriction to inlet flow as long as there are suitable places to draw fresh air from. I myself have seen more consistent performance from my car with the adition of a heat shield, and im not going to sit here and believe anyone who says it makes the car run WORSE. maybe you should give it a go yourself?

Yeh mines just started doing something similar. check engine light comes on when anything above idle and flashes sometimes. this was straight after fitting my intercooler. also brings up fault code 12 in diagnostics mode which is air flow meter i think? looking for the codes now.... can anyone help?

hey I really like what your doing here. I bought one of impakts diagnostic tools a fair while ago and i love it.... Some of the features that his has that i think would make yours better would be - Add a peak hold funtion (like on his). This makes things so much easier... especially for duty cycle, rpm etc. - work your TPS sensor out. on impakts tool it seems to know 0 - 100 percent throttle position on every car i've plugged it into. Features that would make yours far more superiour... - Reading and clearing of fault codes, Ecu reset. Huge thumbs up. - 0 - 100kph, 0 - 200kph times etc... also 0-200 & 0-400m times? - upgradeable. enough said. I really like yours so far... kind of prefer his screen however.... if his was in an ever so slightly smaller case, it would fit into the ash tray holder.... yours just looks a little strange being so long and only 2 lines... I hope those comments have helped you cheers

The 300V is 100 percent synthetic.... There are heaps of threads on this and i dont know alot... but i know its a better choice (and more expensive one) then the turbolight 4100

I got drunk one night and cut the door opener buzzer thing out while i was listening to music outside the car. was the best thing ive ever done.

Hey mate, interesting thread but this has been covered before I think... I didnt think the R34 had a ball bearing turbo, just thought it was a little larger... Can anyone confirm this? Anyhow, heres what im quite sure of.... -They have slightly larger intercoolers -Variable cam timing on both the inlet and exhaust cams (as opposed to only the inlet which the r33 rb25det has) - Solid type lifters (same setup as Rb26) - Different shaped inlet manifold

when i did my oil R33 gtst, I needed one large bottle and a small one. held about 4.1 litres i think? or maybe 4.8? cant remember off the top of my head, but do a search, its here somewhere....

Who is CBC?

being able to look at and clear fault codes would be nice

Oh I want upgrades come on nissan boys.... show some support

I have a 9855 installed in my car. I picked it up for 550 off of ebay.... anyhow. I love it to bits, find it much more advanced then the 9857 (meant to be a more user friendly option) the slide bar can be tricky at times but there is a skill to it, and the parametric equalizer is great... i much prefer it over the equavilent pioneer model, although it does have 5 volt preouts and the 9855's are 4.5V. Here are the FACTS corrected... -There is a clock on the 9855, with a date, and it also has greetings for christmas etc. -The antenna does not go up whenever the unit is on... (i would check your wiring mate) -The cd text in scroll mode doesn't show HEAPS of letters, but i find it enough to identify songs... -The cd text display is a little slow, but i dont know why you would want everything to scroll at once... There are two lines and they display song title and artist quite well.... -All the small lights can only be red or green correct.. I dont know of many other models that even allow you to choose. It is a good feature... The 9855R is also a revised model i believe, as the first ones had problems with buttons dieing and the eject mechanism. I would keep it mate unless your looking for a serious upgrade. it is a nice deck

because it is still sucking unmetered air isnt it... through the hole in the bov..... What is high boost for you? Mine holds 12 fine....

Hmmm I dont quite understand what you are saying here. If you disconnect the Plumb back pipe from the turbo of course it will not idle properly. at idle the intake is under vaccuam pressure, and will therefore suck un-metered air through the big hole you have left their. However, when connected all is good. because all air that passes through will be metered. On a side note, I have my factory BOV with the small hole you talk of blocked. Not much of a difference at all in the running of the car... I read somewhere once this hole is for smoother deacceleration.

hmm... Big thread to read, lots of long posts. I dont pretend to know much but one thing that interests me is that people say when the throttle body is closed the turbo is faced with huge pressure trying to push through it. The air thats forced backwards against the turbo can be no greater then the pressure that the turbo has created. ie, 12 pounds of boost means, with the throttle body closed, there is no more then 12 pound of boost in the piping between the turbo and the throttle body (doesnt sound drangerous to me at all and no different from when the throttle body is open). so, for no BOV to be detremental to turbo life, I would assume that it is because of one major factor. The turbo is always driven from the exhaust gases. I assume the bearings, shaft, impeller etc are all designed only for this one directional loading. When you close the throttle body, you have a lack of exhaust gas pressure and a relatively high intake pressure acting backwards on the impeller. Perhaps this causes some kind of weird unbalance? /end rant

Yes but how bad, i mean, surely with the mods he has, cracking a 13 with a slipping clutch is pretty awesome wouldnt you think? maybe too awesome? As in your case, I thought a slipping clutch would have a very significant negative affect...

Hey guys I went out the other week and ran a 13.624 @ 102.975 mph with a 60ft of 2.098 I have a pod, a 3 inch turbo back exhaust and a turbosmart bleed valve. I think im running quite good times considering my mods. How do you know your clutch is slipping?

hey mate im keen for one! payment when and how! pm please. R33 gtst. Thankyou!