yoshiii335

I would have to get the Blitz. The one I have now(return flow fmic) is only 400x260x70 in size. I am about to get a bigger turbo soon.

So caning means pushing the car? I was about to get new coil packs soon any way, spit fires. I have an extra set of stock igniters, afm have an extra but its old, and the cas, well don't have any extra. Stupid question, how would I do the standard diagnostics on cas and igniter? Igniter, I thought either it works or it doesn't. Coil pack I thought it works or it doesn't. Can always check the voltage on each coil. My friend who tunes cars adjusted the cas the first time after I experienced the first problem. It helped the car drive more smooth.

Hello I will buy a new pump soon because the one I have is old and I believe on its ways out. The weekend, I went out and pushed my car to the limit like I have never done before. I ran with a tuned GTR and some other cars. I have been pushing my car within safe limits to learn how to drive the power I how and use it with tune and things I have. The weekend I pushed it! Did pretty well with keeping up with the gtr( he didn't floor it lol) and the other cars. But I was pushing my car to the limit. Afterwards when doing normal driving, my car would hesitate and I lost power(not electrical power) when changing from 2nd to 3rd gear and than drive normally again. I couldn't go past 3000 rpm in any gear. My friend adjusted the cas and the car drove better but I still have problems sometimes in 3rd and 4th gear. Sometimes it hesitates and loses power(not electrical) as I am approaching 3000 rpm and than it will be fine. Last night as I was sitting in the car with the car idling, it cut off. I was able to restart without any problems. Today as I was driving in 3rd gear it started to hesitate again and wanted to cut off. I pulled to the side of the road and the engine started revving as if I hit the gas. The car cut off. I started the car again and as I was pulling off it cut off again. I was going up a hill. I started the car again and gave it some gas, the car drove fine and the engine sounds fine. The car at traffic lights idles fine. Yesterday I cleaned the spark plugs, it had some carbon build up along the top of the plugs. Didn't have a chance to clean the maf because the auto stores didn't really have maf cleaner. It seems the hesitation happens if I drive sporty. If I baby the car, it doesn't give me the problems as much. I researched about possible causes and the number cause I found is that it can be the fuel pump. Next was the maf, coil packs, igniter, injectors. Yesterday when checking the car, I didn't see any fuel leaks or smell gas. The car starts and idles fine. Could it be the fuel pump? I know its old and it was starting to make weird noises sometimes before this.

Ok so which type doesn't matter than. I will choose the one which matches my power output.

Ok. So which one of the turbos for the 20 is good?

Ok maybe a ffp I will buy. Right now I am running a rb25 turbo on my rb20 but will buy a bigger turbo soon because the rb25 turbo is about dead.

So a regular fmic would be better than a return flow fmic?

Hello My rb25 turbo on my rb20det is about gone. I am looking for a new turbo. I learned abit more about turbos and things now. Whatever turbo I buy will be transferrerd over to a rb25 engine if I decide to buy one later this year. I am looking at a TD05 18g, Hi Flow rb25 turbo(Hyper Gear), a GTX2860R, GTX2863R, GTX2867R, or a GTX 3071R. I want 400hp but I want to learn how to drive on a car with over 300 first since I have never drive on that goes over 300hp. Don't want any more used rb25 turbos. My set up now is cool and I have learned how to drive on it, I pushed it to its limits and its old so now its making that death winding sound. Set up now is the rb25 with a tune which is tuned for boost up, intake pod, and the bigger turbo, fuel, etc.. My boost is set at .9 bar. I have full exhaust from the turbo back with a sports cat. 3" to 5" full exhaust. I am running a gtr pump which is going too, showing signs of dying. Buying a tomei, or walbaro pump within the week. I am running stock injectors. Plan is to get 440cc or 550cc injectors, new turbo, new fuel pump and tune. Not looking for more than 350hp for now until I learn how to drive the car with that much horse power. Want good response of course. I have read thru many of the results posted by people with different turbos but there is not much on the ones I mentioned above except for the hi flow rb25 turbo. The results from that seems that the turbo does really get moving until after 3000 rpm almost 4000 on the rb20. Which of those turbos listed above would be good to have and still a good one to put onto a rb25? Are there any that I am missing that might be good/

Hello I am running a 400x260x70 sized return flow intercooler on my rb20 which has a rb25 turbo, tune, full exhaust, intake, gtr fuel pump. I am upgrading to a larger fmic. I am deciding between a Blitz return flow fmic which is 600x266x76 or a regular fmic which is 600x300x100(or 70 maybe) I've read many articles about intercoolers and response and so on. There seems to be no real answers I can find. What are peoples results with return flow FMIC vs regular fmic in regards to response here on the forums.? Does it really matter that much? I am thinking that maybe it wont be that much difference.

Thanks everone.Forgot to mention the idle/shake is not as bad as before I did the changes. Will try cleaning the afm. Maybe aac valve.

Cool. Think it could be the pump? I am about two to three months out from either tuning this engine or changing to a rb25 or rb 26. I want to make sure this engine is working. until then.

Hello, I have a r32 gtst with the rb 20det. My car has a rough idle/shake. When the car is started it has a rough idle/ shake but goes away after driving. The car drives smoothly and accelerates fine. If the car is driven a little hard, when it comes to a stop, it has the rough idle/shake. About three weeks ago the weather started to become colder (17 degrees celcius). The car developed the rough shake/idle at start up. It was bad. Also as I found out later, a cylinder was missing. The power of the car was down. At the same time I believe I got a bad batch of gas. The car had a weird coil pack set up that the previous owner had installed. The coil packs were mounted next to the windshield wiper motor. There were orange spark plug wires connected from the coil park to the spark plugs. All of the tuners that I went to said that the coil packs would have to be returned to the stock set up before they would tune the car. I had some extra coil packs and had them tested at Nissan. They said that the coil packs were good to go. I did a compression test and the readings from the cylinders from the front of the engine to the back was: #1 140 psi. #2 135 psi, #3 135 psi, #4 135 psi, #5 140 psi, and #6 135.5 psi . I changed out the coil packs and the coil pack harness. All cylinders worked after that. But the rough idle/shake was still there as well but the power had not returned fully to the car. I changed out the spark plugs to HKS Iridium's M35's (had the same in there before). When taking out the old spark plugs, a friend mentioned that one of the spark plugs looked as if the cylinder it was in was running lean. After changing the spark plugs the rough idle/shake went away some. I used a fuel cleaner, Seafoam, to clean out the fuel system incase some of the problems are fuel related. I think it may be fuel related. The car's power came back and the car began to drive much more smoothly and quickly. The rough idle was pretty much gone(going away) When starting the car, it was smooth. But the weather is colder now and when I start the car it has the rough idle/shake and when the car is driven a little hard, it comes back when the car is stopped. The weather is now in the 10-14 degree time. Winter is coming. So could this be fuel related? Are my cylinder psi readings good? The car has about 138,000 km on it. I am using a GTR fuel pump and I changed the fuel filter to a new one earlier this year. Could the fuel pump be going out?

I guess I need to prepare to buy new parts for the engine if r32 26. My friend who had a r33 gtst that was tuned said that it sucked having the car tuned because of the VCT. Do you know if the 25's are harder to tune because of this? Do you know of any shops in Australia that sell premade looms for a rb25 into a 32 conversion? The 26 is easier to install it seems.

Hello I have some questions about putting a rb26 into a r32 gtst. In case I am able to afford to do this. I have resereached and read lots of post about this. From what I have learned so far, it seems I have to, use the rb26 wiring loom (r32 gtr), use the r32 gtst engine mounts, cut off the diffs on the oil pan, cut a hole in the r32 gtst body for the gtr intercooler pipes(the indentation for the hole is there all ready), use a r32 gtr computer, use the r32 gtr gauge cluster, use the r32 gtst power steering pump, use a resister pack for the gtr injectors and run a wire to the battery, use the r32 gtst transmission until I can get a r33 gtst transmission put into the car. Is there anything I am missing? One thing that I cant seem to find exact info about is if the heater hoses will line up and connect to the RB26 without any modifications. Also will there be any problems with only using the rb26 wiring loom? I have a r32 gtr fuel pump in the car already. How will the car operate with the system that runs the r32 gtst fuel pump system since I will be using a r32 gtr computer? Is this the complete list of things I need to do?

No Troll, I am asking how to do something, I have searched and cannot find it but instead of help I get troll troll, ?????? Are you people f*&ked up? Thanks! I found the Navara speedo cable mod earlier. It has pictures. So I'll research the ac fittings part. So you used a engine from a R34? Thanks

If I do not know what I am doing or what the items look like and have no pictures for reference, actually it is hard. From what I have read I have to splice RB25 injector loom onto the RB20 injector loom, mess with the main harness loom and more. Pics of the things and plugs I will have to cut and modify will help so I am not guessing. For everyone who has done it before, easy, but for someone who doesn't know , not easy. If I do this in the future, I don't want to waste things. For example, I found a post where someone has pictures of the speedos and how to modify them to work with the RB20 dash. I have read some people say use the RB20 loom, some people say RB25 loom.

Ok, I looked into that but Hyper Gear suggested a different one than that. I forget the exact one. I will contact them again and ask them again. Thank you I appreciate everyones help.

Thank you. Incase I am able to somehow come into a RB25 for cheap and that runs good, does anyone have links to posts about how to put a RB25 into a R32 with pictures? I found many posts but they don't have pictures. Also does any shops in Australia make the wiring loom for that swap?

I understand that, in fact I said thank you to everyone who has offered to answer questions. Within that if I had any other questions, I would ask. I haven't asked anything new. I was told about what to expect. So I was told what to do and what not to do. Within that I asked follow up questions. So if it is wrong for me to make sure I have all the details that will help me on my way well don't answer, easy. My questions have been mostly answered. I know what to expect. So I am going to go with the 20 for now. I don't want to ask this question any more, so I want to know specifics. I read the different pages on what people use. But it seems no one has gotten it right. Roy told me some things, I happen to read some of his old post by coincidence and so I asked some questions specifically about what he told me and what I read in his posts, isn't that what most of you tell people the moment they have a question READ THE POST READ THE POSTs. I READ the post and had questions. You don't know what I am able to have done to my car. If someone has done something that I am trying to do, I am going to ask for specifics, that's how people learn. Too many of you expect people to shut up automatically as soon as the word RB 20 is mentioned. Also some of you have a bad habit of attacking posters the moment they asked a questions. FYI, the posts don't all have the answers people are looking for. Also not everyone is going to want to read through dozens and hundreds of pages when a simple answer and explanation that people want can easily be given. This site has a bad reputation amongst other people outside of Australia of not being the friendliest place to ask questions. Some people question peoples actually experiences and knowledge here. But I come here because I trust that someone actually knows what they are talking about and will help the fellow car man without being dicks. Too many chips on peoples shoulders here. Thanks for everyone who is trying to help. Oh yeah, as before no one knows what parts or things I have access to right now. Not everyone can just go and put a RB25 engine or whatever in their car. Some people have things they want to do. Advice is good sometimes, but don't push it on people or make them feel like crap because they dare to do something they want to try. I have read other posts where this is done to people. Anyway, my main big thing now is choosing the turbo that will get me to my goal I want until I can get the GTR or somehow I come into possession of a cheap good running RB25. I have searched and from what I have read, the 2530 is not what I am looking for because it doesn't seem to be able to reach the 360-380 hp goal I am looking for. The other ones mentioned in this post I haven't really found any info about them. Oh yeah, the turbos available now are somewhat better than the ones back then. Most of the posts are old here. I am looking at the one the turbos that was dicussed in this post. I have done exactly what I said I would do with my car in steps. I put a boost controller in. Drove it. Put a rb25 det turbo in, have a boost up tuned computer for it, driving it. I am now ready for the next step. I am not going to go over 380 in my car because I understand that higher means more lag unless a good way to reduce that lag at high hp is made. If I was going for a track car, I wouldn't care. So I know if I want 400 hp or more I should go RB25 or GTR to have a good street car. So if its not too much to ask to close this post out, out of the turbos suggested in this post, which one would probably be the best to invest in that will actually be good? The TD06 I know makes lots of power but I know also that it comes on to boost later on the RB20.

Have to do something soon, this boost up tune with the RB25 turbo doesnt seem to be doing anything. Got dusted by a RX7 tonight, but I think he was super tuned any way. Wasnt trying to race. He thought he was racing me. I was just driving. But after he took off and was ahead, I said what the heck and tried to catch up to him to see how my car is.

Hello Roy, I was reading some old post about rb20's and I came across some of your inputs, you mention that you "I dont know Mafia. I would have spent 6k on my RB20 with ecu, injectors, fuel pump, turbo and manifold and tuning....would do some things differently if I did it all again but 50,000kms in a std engine making between 235-275rwkws and plenty of track work means I dont think its been a waste if money. Hell I cant think of any rwd cars be it RB25, SR20 etc rhat us as quick as my RB20 at Sandown which is pretty much a hp track...so cant be too bad a thing General rule is if you go bigger RB you have to expect the gearbox will be a problem much sooner. So add gearbox, tailshaft... it all adds up. Coolant, oils new water pump and belrs etc...do it once, do it right and it costs money. So many people talk about how cheap they can do things and not sure its sound advice to people who are spending money at a mechanics as they may not have know how, space, time or a combination of Posted 18 July 2011 - 05:27 AM " So I believe that I can get a good fast non big laggy car with a RB20. The question I have now is what turbo, Ive asked but I keep getting different suggestions and don't know which one is really good. What do you think of the ones suggested in this post to reach the power you said is is good? I read about the TDO6 but it seems that is a turbo that kicks in late in the RPM range. What turbo are you(were you) using on your RB20? Also does changing the exhaust manifold matter?

???? So I am receiving info that is helping me and you say I am a troll?????????

Thanks for the info! What rpm for the turbo do you consider too laggy?

Reading on the 25. Is it that easy to get 400hp with simple mods?

No troll