jmhinkle

I am. Message me on Facebook .https://www.facebook.com/joelmhinkle or email [email protected]

Check your PM's. Definitely willing to work out a deal on what you suggested if you can help.

My shipping back would be by USPS Global Priority which would have tracking, but the cost of it would be added in the price of the repair. For the clock it would be around $25 vs the normal US price of $5. I've shipped many things back and forth all over the world. I was big into Tamiya RC cars for a long time and got great deals into and out of Japan and Australia. Very familiar with worldwide shipping none the less. I'm moving from New Mexico to Oregon on June 1st for work so I've suspended all repairs and incoming shipping until after I'm settled in up there, but I can easily take care of it once I'm all set up again. Repairs take me about 6 hours total including testing, but I can only do them on my days off. Turn around has still been fairly quick. Usually inside of a week. If you can't find a local service keep me in mind.

Buttons and resoldering the resistors under the VFD fixes everything. I do repair them, but I'm in the US and started the service for people here since we are just now getting the cars. If you want to ship to me I can do it.

100 is the normal time they reset too. I've redone a few of them. I do have a desoldering station so no issues with pulling the VFD. Trying to do it by hand without at least a really good desoldering iron will be extremely hard. You have to get those contacts clean before attempting VFD removal. I've been replacing the 3 buttons as well. I picked up a bag of 100 pretty cheap and I've seen several dead button so far when they come in.

I unhooked the VFD, resoldered the resistors below and a few other spots as well. When I power it up now it comes on at 1:00, but none of the buttons seem to work. Any ideas on that?

Not completely true. There is a thread on a Z32 Forum, which used the same clock, that found the two resistors on the back with dry solder cracks as well. That's what I was referring to when I initially pulled it apart. The corner burn on my VFD seemed quite large so I was concerned, but looking back at the pictures posted it is there too. Once my family has left town and I have some time, I will break out the desoldering station and pull it apart. Thanks for the help and clarification.

Here is what my glass looks like. No dry solder on the outer joints like the z32 thread shows, but haven't checked under the glass after seeing it like this.

If my VFL has a burnt spot in the corner, is there any saving it? Not sure how to upload the picture from my phone. No normal forum upload link.

That was the one I used originally and it didn't quite work right. That was the reference to version 2.0 vs the 5.01 that Win7 needs.

My second link was Wikipedia? Looked through it, but didn't see anything helpful to my issue. Is that what you were referring to?

The version I downloaded was 2.0 and Win7 should be 5.01. I think that is my problem with the MS Gothic not working. Sure as heck not paying $129 for a silly font.

I got it downloaded and set it as it said, but then I lost all writing. I set it back to anything with Western again and now the boxes that were in Japanese symbols show nothing at all. Crap.

Sorry to revive an old thread, but I ran into a problem with Step 7. "MS Gothic" is not an option for fonts, and no matter what I pick, Japanese is not an option for the script. Fast is working, but most of the tabs are showing in Japanese characters. Any work around for this? Thanks!