Cxxo

Bought them from Tire City at Northgate (Brisbane). And I'm in no way trying to bag them. Great bunch of blokes, just looking for answers/my own knowledge. But yeah 3312 is the date on them and they did look dirty. A lot of there tires are stored just in the shed they work in so haven't a clue if they'd be stored correctly or not. I've found that 32psi is about right with tire role when looking at the little indicator arrows on the side. think that's what they are for?

Shop put 36 in them but I lowered them to 32. Should I go more again or? Thinking it might be because there old tyres?

Hey guys thought I'd share my 2c + a current issue I'm working on 32 GTST making 200hp BC coilovers 10/8 spring rate. adjustable arms etc. Running about -3 camber fronts and -1 on the rears other settings are fairly neutral 18x 9.5 and 18 x 10 235/40 and 265/35 - 123 semi slicks 150 and 200 each (got put on for free due to deal with buying new rims) Street use mainly do spend time up the mountain. Loved them heated up well nice and soft used to grip very well. Super predictable, like I'd come round a corner up the mountain and if I was going to quick it'd slide out for half a second grip up, bog down then fully slide out and by that time your more then prepared for it. and just power through and keep going. Road noise never phased me, so never really listened for it, weren't super loud. In the wet, like most semi's just need to be careful. They weren't really shit they did have some grip, I could drive around normally and feel comfortable about it just nothing excited. Obviously avoid puddles of water if possible. The rears wore out before I heat cycled them and wore fairly evenly lasted maybe 3months of daily driving and a spirit run up mountain on average once a week. and a few piss poor skids. The fronts I still have 5 months later. probably 30-40% now, but I'm certain they have heat cycled as they don't get anywhere near as plyable/soft or hot, only warm. This might be due to doing a track day few weeks ago where I started to melt them from lots of laps around QR pushing them. Would defiantly buy the 123's again. Replaced the rears with a set of 595 RSR's 285/30/18 paid 260 each fitted/balanced First impression they looked a bit dirty/old but didn't think to much of them as the hype they have. went for a drive after I got the coating off and they seemed to grip up fairly well. but after a run up the mountain it felt as if they were gripping due to width not being sticky. Went for a hard run and got out to check the tires. Still firm and not even luke warm... Next day I went to the track (downshift circuit and coffee) and pushed them for what my car could I found the corner at the end of the back straight I could do flat to the floor in second shifting to third 2/3 through the corner not any signs of loosing grip (do remember I only have 200hp) After a hour of bashing around, keep in mind I couldn't go fast constantly as you got people who do 40 in corners then want to bash down the straight then 40 next corner. They were only warm and sort of plyable, nothing like my 123's were. Ended up checking the date on the side (3312) 33rd week of 2012? which makes them 2yrs and 16weeks old or something... Or am I wrong? So Went for a drive last night and thought I'd try doing a skid to heat them up. Well it worked. they got sticky it was like half set glue, tacky but still hard and not plyable/soft. Where as the 123s didn't get like this. Drove on them while it was sticky like this and they were unreal so sticky the grip was great but I couldn't keep the heat into them even pushing the car around the mountain. Oh and My RSR's are f**kING HOPLESS in the wet. I actually have to take it easy and be careful around corners. I cant start on any hill without sliding the whole way up. regardless of how easy I breath on the gas or slip the clutch or anything. So coming to the conclusion that the RSR's are old stock thus not as good as they should be/started to go hard. 285/30 is to wide of a tire for my car/power/application for what I'm using the car for thus unable to generate the heat required. Or do they come in different levels of compound soft/medium/hard? and I've just got a hard set suited for heavier cars? I'm no race car driver and only just getting into the whole grip based thing so still learning and experimenting. Any info/tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Chris

Just got mine. Speak of the devil. haha They look great.

Hey, just curious as to how things are progressing? anyone got theirs yet? Keen to see what there like.

This might be a bit left field but I've been trying to hunt down a set of canards like the ones in the photo attached. Any chance on getting theses made up?

Here's pics of mine from my post on the last page. Have full clearance, nothing rubs even on a mountain run. =)

Is it worth someone starting this group buy again as there seems to still be a lot of interest? I know I'd like some for my 32.

Dollar reached 86 today

Food for thought. American Express is saying that the dollar is falling because Australia's iron ore exports have hit a all time low in price in the last 5 years and falling and this is making the dollar follow it. This is most likely because "China's seemingly endless appetite for iron ore has finally been shown to have limits" - SMH. These limits is probably because as Jeremy above said they built thousands of apartments and no one is living in them so why build more? Don't need to build anymore, don't need any more resources. Also the American housing market has increased 1-2% which equates to 200000 homes a month compared to Australia 150000 in a year. (roughly, cant remember exact figures) Their 1-2% increase alone each month is more then Australia's total yearly.

Haha I'm not that good at it and I don't know why. I just keep a eye on it for work, mainly hear stuff through my boss as I work at a timber importing company, and basically everything we import is based around the dollar. Its hard to follow unless your heavily involved as all sorts of things affect it. I can tell you that timber products (decking mouldings etc) are about to go up. haha

Dollar is only going to get worse btw expecting another 3c to drop yet.

Rims are sold pending payment.

Getting excited. Missus is probably more keen then me, she f**king hates being thrown around the car when we go up the mountain. haha

Guards are sold pending payment.

Ahh my bad, sorry Northlakes Brisbane QLD or I can be at Hemmant during work hours. 7-3:30ish

Hey, I've got a set of (4) R32 GTR Wheels for sale Have been painted black. Are in fairly good condition, have a little gutter rash but cant really tell unless staring at them. Tyres are KU36 semi slicks and Michelin Sports (I think) where good quality tyre griped well in wet etc. Semis are 50% and the Michelins are basically on the wear line. Legal but yeah. Chasing $500-600 Also have R32 GTST front guards in Factory Black Pearl Metalic. Both sides LH and RH sides. Good condition, no marks. No indicators, has badge. Don't have any photos but you know what they look like. Chasing $50-100 Happy with $500 for rims and $50 for guards if you buy all of it together as it funds my new parts =) Photos in attached files.

Mine is being removed when car gets tuned end of the month. I'm certain its the factory one but I'd have to double check. I can message you when I've got it later in the month if you still need it

Skyline Model = R32 GTST Wheel Diameter = 18" Wheel Width = 9.5 Fronts 10 Rears Wheel Offset = +18 Fronts +15 Rears Tyre Size = 235/40 Fronts 265/35 Rears Modifications to fit = 20mm wide front guards 30mm wide rear guards Fronts = 2.5deg neg camber Rears = 1.5degs neg camber Any many many hours fiberglassing Is lowered cant figure out how to upload photos. everytime I use the photo/link button above and copy a link across from photobucket is freezes -.-

Hey guys I'm having a similar issue in my 32 gtst. except mines where if I put my foot on the clutch coming to a set of lights or traffic it sometimes stalls out. Its a pain slowing down put foot on clutch to change down around a corner and it stalls out. then having to clutch it or turn it on mid corner makes for a very annoying time especially when steering gets real heavy Similar situation with the revs dropping right down sometimes it stops at 200rpm then goes back up sometimes doesn't and stalls out. I'm yet to check for any vacuum leaks but guessing it could be a culprit?

My mate has a R32 with the 20det had the same issue but was "idling" at like 7k... it was his throttle cable getting stuck and the nuts where loose on the cable near the throttle body. I'd check there first.

Any updates with this?

I'm chasing the C pillars for a 2d R32 GTST, both sides.

How olds to old to bring a post back from the dead? Anyway, General rule of thumb (from what I've been told) you can change your spring rates 2kg before it starts wearing your shocks out at a faster rate/they cant match up well enough with the spring rates/rebound rates etc. Just buy a 2kg softer spring for the rear and move the rear to the front. so you only buy 1 pair not 2. cost me 120? I think or was it $80? for 1 pair of new springs. Make sure you check if they will work first, spring size/length etc.

I find that my 32 was terrible around the mountain, it was bouncy and soft and all over the shop, unstable and really didn't let me push it. now it was no weapon in the power department. 260rwhp. I found that with my coilovers they were to soft for me. I had 8 fronts 6 rears. I bought 10kg springs and put the 8s on the rear. If feels SO much nicer to drive just around the streets and with it slightly stiffer (less of a bouncy role) Was like shock rebound was to high and springs to soft. less body role from the springs as well around corners. I find soft suspension is for straight line squat and grip. but soon as you hit a corner its to sloppy and feels like its floating around to much. That's my personal experience anyway.