angusis2fast4u

Yeah it like rarely happens like probably not even once a week, It probably only happens like once every 2 weeks Ill look up the PowerFC miss. Sparks were done like 600km ago ill check out that throttle body as well Thanks for the help ill report back when i've got an update!

I have splitfires, walbro 255 pump, brand new spark plugs (I forget if this issue was around before I changed them... Could that be it??) So i would hope it's not the coils or pump... Also the issue generally doesn't happen under power like usually just when im cruising along... How did you check your CAS??

So i've read around but not getting a straight answer, I'm believing it's CAS but coming here for a second opinion So occasionally the engine will "hiccup". ill be driving down the road (usually I only notice it during freeway driving) and then the engine will like die for a short period of time, (it feels like when you lift your foot off the pedal for a split second) I think I read somewhere it was CAS but can't since find that page to read up on it. any help / confirmation / ways to troubleshoot it? Compression is good: 142, 150, 145, 145, 150, 150. New o2 and cleaned AFM. is running a Power FC RB20DET 1992 SKyline r32 Thanks for the help guys!

Bump, PM me to negotiate a price! Found a car I really like :3

His goal is to be $1,500 or below. and yeah you are correct, he came from gravel but he's been having a lot of success with time attack the last few years! most WTAC winners are on MCA suspension!

So I read a while ago MCA is teaming up with GKtech to make coilovers for S & R chassis cars, I'm definitely waiting out for a set Has anybody put themselves down on their list to get them asap? I'm keen to see how low they will let you go since I know MCA purely makes their coilovers for handling not max lows.

Thankyou Ben that's what my question was, I only know a handful of people with R32 Gts's and one is having the exact same issue as me so i wanted to ask is there a common/ most likely source of the issue But apparently that's a hard answer to give

Bump

Thanks Sinista for taking it seriously, I will take it to another shop and see what they say, I took it to a shop who i've dealt with for a long time now and always trusted them, maybe they just missed something but i'll take it elsewhere and see what they say. Thanks man

You do realize you have an issue?

It's been.... Mechanic said he didn't know Now if you read my question, I am asking a question which is NOT specific to MY car, I am asking if it is a common issue specific to R32's If you're going to be arrogant make sure you are replying to a topic properly.

I just got it the other day, didn't get any info/sheet that would must steering seem slack like there was play in the wheel though

Bump, This is f**king annoying

Hi, I have a 32 Gts-t and the steering seems to be quite unresponsive and most noticable above 80-100kmh, and there seems to be a little play in the wheel. as far as suspension work goes i have front and rear camber arms (KKR) and a HICAS elimination kit, I also have castor arms and HSD coilovers. I have a mate who has a 32 GTS-4 with just coilovers and camber arms and he has the same issue. (also both cars seem to crab a little while driving) Is this a thing in all 32's? what can be done to get rid of it?

Thanks guys, just confirming if he was BS'ing me or not hahaha

I really don't be one of these kids but I can't really get a solid or great answer and i've searched the forums and google. My mate had an SR20 with a 3inch Cat-back (including cat) including highflow cat. Now he said as soon as he gutted the cat the exhaust started popping and shooting flames, Just by having this exhaust and gutting the cat (as well as being noticably louder post gutting). I can't imagine a high flow cat causing this much back pressure that all of a sudden it pops and shoots flames? I have an RB20det with the same 3inch Cat back (including high flow cat) Can anyone confirm by just gutting the cat it would actually make That much difference?

Got it today did a good flush and refilled full, So much difference!!

Never done PS flush, Got any links or anything to a DIY? Thanks guys i'll head done to a shop and get one of them!

Handling, Simplicity, lightness, flying under the radar from po-po, potential for poformance... Mazda made them right!

I tried searching it but got no results I have a R32 Gts-t just wondering what people use and what brand they find is best to cope with lock to lock and daily duties? I have a little play in the steering, so i checked the reservoir it is below empty by like 10mm so I'm guessing its time for a top up!

I am looking to sell my 1992 Nissan Skyline GTS-T. I bought the car early this year after owning an MX5 and am only selling as I regret getting rid of the MX5. The car is in a very clean state, especially when comparing to other R32’s. I have receipts for it dating all the way back to 2010 and I have kept every receipt for it since I purchased it. 159,000km Manual RB20DET Coupe 2 door Rego runs out next month but I will purchase another 6 months for buyer P-plate friendly (with exemption, and I can show you how to get one) $9,000 The car has the following modifications done to it: - Power FC - RB25 Turbo with 360 degree thrust bearing - Splitfire Coilpacks - 550cc Deatschwerks Injectors - Stainless Braided Oil Water and Break Lines with Speed Flow fittings - Front mount Intercooler - HKS Turbo Timer - Auto Meter Boost Gauge - Cusco Strut Braces front and rear - AVS Model 6 wheels (17x8+35) - HSD Coilovers all round - ARP Headstuds - Cometic Headgasket - Head crack tested, resurfaced and professionally cleaned, - New Nissan genuine parts purchased while putting on the head gasket: Timing belt, all engine gaskets, ALL Heater hoses (Including top and bottom radiator hose), 100,000km Service kit, - HICAS Elimination kit installed by Option1Garage - Front and Rear Camber arms installed by Option1Garage - Castor arms Installed by Option1Garage - Mongoose Alarm/Immobiliser (Insurance friendly) - Pioneer Headunit with AUX - Nismo Thermostat and New housing As you can see quite a lot of money spent on the car. The car is currently my daily and has a very safe tune for waste-gate pressure (8psi) but all the mods are there to easily make more power safely and reliably. The downsides of the car is that the C-pillar linings are missing (were taken out to do work but one was lost and the other broken) and needs new rear window tint (bubbled up due to age), both these issues are roadworthy items and therefore will not come with a roadworthy. Also the gearbox makes a whining noise which I had checked out by a mechanic and he said it is not detrimental to the life of the box, so far it has done this for 10,000km and still works and feels good. I always only put in 98 Octane fuel, the car has dash NO bubbles, Vents aren't broken like in every other R32, Mostly garaged, A/C blows cold air Apart from those issues the car has been absolutely fine and have enjoyed driving it every bit. I am Negotiable on the price but please be sensible. it is truly one of the cleanest R32's I’ve seen and that was the only reason I purchased the vehicle in the first place and I would not even think of selling it if I didn't miss my MX5 so much. I will consider swaps for NB MX5 with cash adjustment either way depending on condition.

My bad, I thought it was 1&2, don't know what I was thinking when i was writing this.. haha.. I tried feeling around for the ticking but no luck..

I am looking for EOI for my 1992 Nissan Skyline GTS-t. I bought the car a while ago after owning an MX5 and am only selling as I regret getting rid of the MX5. The car is in a very clean state, especially when comparing to other ones. I have receipts for it dating all the way back to 2010 and I have kept every receipt for it since I purchased 159,000km Manual RB20DET Rego runs out next month but will slap on another 6 months for buyer $9,000 The car has the following modifications done to it: - Power FC - RB25 Turbo with 360 degree thrust bearing - Splitfire Coilpacks - 550cc Deatschwerks Injectors - Stainless Braided Oil Water and Break Lines with Speed Flow fittings - Front mount Intercooler - HKS Turbo Timer - Auto Meter Boost Gauge - Cusco Strut Braces front and rear - AVS Model 6 wheels (17x8+35) - HSD Coilovers all round - ARP Headstuds - Cometic Headgasket - HICAS Elimination kit installed by Option1Garage - Front and Rear Camber arms installed by Option1Garage - Mongoose Alarm - Headunit with AUX - Nismo Thermostat and New housing As you can see quite a lot of money spent on the car and no shortcuts taken. The car is currently my daily and has a tune for waste-gate pressure (8psi) but all the mods are there to easily make more power reliably. The downsides of the car is that the C-pillar lining's are missing (were taken out to do work but one was lost and the other broken) and needs new rear window tint (bubbled up due to age). Also the gearbox makes a whining noise but has done so for 10,000km and still works and feels fine. Always run on 98 Octane fuel, Dash has NO bubbles, Vents aren't broken like in every other R32 Apart from those issues The car has been absolutely fine and have enjoyed driving it every bit. I am in no rush to sell it so I am only slightly negotiable. it is truely one of the cleanest R32's i've seen and was the only reason I purchased the vehicle in the first place and I would not even think of selling it if I didn't miss my MX5 so much.

I have an R32 with Rb20det and recently it has started making a ticking sound coming from the the area around the alternator, number 5,6 injectors and waterpump ( I can't accurately determine where exactly the sound comes from but it comes from somewhere in this area. I took it to a mechanic who said it might be the lifters so I changed the oil (using new filter and flush) and it made no difference (the oil before could have been 10,000km old or more [bought it off someone who had no f**king clue]) it's gotten considerably louder since I took it to the mechanic and my mechanic is away till the end of this week, and i'm worried now that it might not last till he gets back. What in this area makes a really loud ticking sound? It sounds louder than injector tick and sounds like external to the block (like it doesn't sound like it muffled from coming from inside the head/block) the car has also been recently pulled apart for a headgasket replacement with cometic gasket and ARP studs, while that was happening it got it's waterpump replaced. My main suspects for the sound are the waterpump/clutch fan. but yeah I have no way of knowing till next week when my mechanic gets back. does anybody have any clues? is this a common issue on RB's?

Thanks man, Where is a good shop to look for rails? I assume R32 GTR and R32 GTS-(T/4) use the same rails? I have a Sprint junior with both underside and side mounting points, for modplate do I have to use both locations? (8 mounting points in total). Where is all the info on mod plating and installing/buying buckets