SECURITY

i dont think a leaking oil return would result in your breather collecting that much oil. i know you've got a case of wishful thinking but if you make the hard decisions early you can save yourself more damage being done to the motor. dont learn the hard way.

i heard something about the N1 pumps going on standard motors - because they are designed for motors that spend more time near the higher RPM range they dont flow as well down low (for daily driven cars). some people overcome this by fitting a smaller pulley to speed it up. dont quote me though. just do it but give them the same warning i give to all my friends and familys cars i fix..... if it breaks, leaks, sets fire or blows up i accept zero liability.... now sign here pls lols.

you can get away with just removing your idler and tensioner but you will have to keep the tension on your timing belt at all times. i did it by cable tying at the top and bottom. when i put it all back together i put the idler first then the tensioner slides in once you adjust the slack (make sure you remove your spark plugs to remove some resistance from the combustion chamber). then check if all of the timing marks line up.

unfortunately using a tape measure is no use to you. it will show 21.XXmm which will confuse some into thinking it is an imperial size. thats not using your brain, is it mate? i wonder what kind of satisfaction you would get from using the wrong size welch plug. if the ones in there are metal then use a magnet, if they're brass you'll have to get most of it out using your fingers. if it starts to break apart as you're hitting it out, get a flat-head screw driver and hammer around the edge, they arent usually the first place that corrode and it should stay together if you try to get it out that way.

i just did mine - which ones are you talking about? the ones directly under? they are 22mm. im not sure what the larger ones are. locktite is recommended but i didnt use any, i was just worried that if it ever 'wears' from the block expanding and contracting it will allow the welch plugs to start moving and pop off.

dude.. seriously.. just call around and get quotes yourself. the forums arent the yellow pages and its not rocket science.

you can sort of check. connect a hose as air tight as you can onto one end of the radiator (i suggest fitting your cap and clamping the garden hose with the fitting on it to the radiator hose) then run the water. you'll notice if the water comes out fast enough or if there is heaps of pressure in the radiator hose you connected your garden hose to. thats just a back yard inspection though.

....or get the knock detector and wire it into the vipec. but it is a shame it doesnt use the standard knock sensors, even the emanage ultimate uses them.

any kind of air leak could do that. when you use the gasket goo - you dont need to use a whole lot if you're mating flat surfaces because as soon as you bolt everything on it will expand and seep out the sides.. also make sure you go the whole way around - not just the part thats leaking. just connect a recirculating BOV and check if that fixes your issue. at least we would be able to rule that one out.

I personally wouldn't worry too much about the gasket goo. It sets as a very soft rubber and if it ended up in your combustion chamber it would melt and fire away from the heat. As for your stalling issues, do you have an atmo venting blow off valve?

My opinion is vipec. Pretty easy to learn and the help file is actually very informative. I find myself refering to it all the time if I need furter information on a certain parameter. IMO there is a bit of a dogma when it comes to guys being hung up on the power fc. The newer ecu's have a lot more going for them. Just because you know a product inside out doesn't mean it's the best thing out there.... Just means it's the best thing for you.

get it pressure tested to find out for sure.

go map sensor. the resolution is pretty much the same either way, its just that map sensors are a bit cleaner and easier to tune when plotted on a fuel table. when tuning with an AFM you have to see at which voltage the AFM is reading at different boost levels at different RPM then tune from there. with a map sensor you're already tuning RPM vs. psi, bar, mPa.. etc. so you always know which AFR's you want at whatever boost you will be running and you can just go ahead and tune. and most stand alone ecu's eliminate the AFM and run an internal map sensor, which also means a cleaner engine bay. AFMs are a pain in the ass IMO. edit: go for a link or vipec. they are both great ecu's that dont require a map sensor. you plug it in, do the little wiring mods you need to do, throw away the AFM and you're off. if you ever want to run a bigger setup you just buy a greater resolution map sensor. its much easier then wiring up an AFM. its even easier then throwing out your AFM.

for anyone interested - this is what the corroded one looked like. it was the only one showing corrosion which was a bit strange.

here is the info i got from the engine manual for code 43. TPS code 43.pdf

for future reference autobarn has these in stock.

dammit. im going to have to hook this up in my 30. im going to do the internal VCT feed then widen my oil drains in the head. since the oil restrictors are in the block will that external oil drain make any real difference?

as far as i know its not a huge deal, im not using one on my 25/30.

It's not a huge job. There is a mod you can do to it to feed oil to it. It's all in the rb30 thread.

thats the VCT oil drain. if you're running VCT then you can "T" into the turbo oil drain. otherwise you can block it off if you arent running VCT.

Go back to those plugs and crimp the wires down so they clamp onto the pin a bit harder. I used a small flat head screw driver to push them down. Do the same for the two plugs on the TPS.

i just removed the things that wouldnt effect overall power. he has 2 more mods then you. i could simplify the engine work by grouping it under "rebuilt engine" and im pretty sure it will be the same. you pretty much have the same amount/type of mods but he is pulling more power. peace out.

sweet! i'll go in tomorrow and check. thanks Duncan.

thanks mate. does anyone know if any of the other major retailers sell them? ive got autobarn, repco and supercheap down the road!

so i had a corroded welch plug that was leaking coolant on the turbo side. i've got them out and want to know where i can get some over the weekend... or whenever. its the one close to the manifold so they're 22mm. does anyone know where i can get them from? repco? supercheap? autobarn? if you've got some new ones laying around that i could get today, tomorrow, sunday or whenever i'd luv u lon tym. cheers, joe