SECURITY

yeah mate. i cant wait either.

well i got bored so i thought i'd modify the oil line. you only need to modify the banjo fitting that sits on the motor, which on the oil line is the one closest to the loop. i put the banjo fitting into a vice then centre punched it. i got the 6mm drill bit out again and started drilling, making sure that it went straight down. im going to go around on monday or tuesday and try to find someone to braze it. ill find out how much it costs and report back. a few pics. the fitting centre punched: the fitting drilled:

a good way to try that is to stick it in neutral. autos will start in neutral too.

yeah im getting Aaron to do that for me, or if i can find a place to do the brazing ill do it myself. i got 8 all together @ $2.80 each which is around $22. i had to be somewhere so i didnt have time to cry over the price. im not too sure when it'll be here mate, but my old turbo was letting off a fair bit of oil so i took it off the road to be safe.

before my turbo gets here i want to get all of my fittings ready so it all goes on at once. just a little warning: DO NOT DO THIS IF YOU ARENT CONFIDENT. for a small fee Aaron from Sliding Performance can do all of these mods for you. i took my turbo off a few days ago so i had all of the fittings laying around so i thought i'd start getting things ready. i went to pirtek to get new washers which coast $25 for all new copper ones, and got some 6mm drill bits as well as some new circlips rings for the wastegate actuator (old ones looked a bit crappy), i got some 4mm and 5mm ones as i wasnt too sure which ones would work. so i got to the banjo bolts: the best thing to do would be to get them into a vice under a bench drill to get a 100% straight hole. if you've got access to something like this then go for it. i didnt have access to one so i had to make do with what a vice grip and a steady hand. this is how i held the bolt in the vice grip: (all pics were taken off camera phone) make sure you're drilling is as straight. it shouldnt be too hard as the old hole should work as a countersink to get you started. this is what the difference is: the end result - two perfect 6mm holes: so far thats all ive done, ive opted to have my oil line modified by Aaron but i might give it a go if i get bored.

any news on my order?

dont expect big gains

those pipes under the plenum runners need to be disconnected too. have a look from under the car and you'll be able to see what im talking about.

could be the rubber stoppers are worn and arent doing their job. mine were goneeeeskies and before i fixed it i used to have to get someone to lift up from the front of the car lightly while i pulled the lever.

you'll need some sort of a reducer for the thing that the plumback pipe clamps onto. i did a dodgy and put a layer of the old pipe underneath the new one.

as long as it stays on the 1st. otherwise my car will be out of action.

just took it for another spin. it really doesnt seem like its doing any damage. it changes into 2nd as soon as i put it into 2nd. this would be very handy at wsid where you could lose up to a second from changing from 1-2 and 2-3. ill report back soon

just did this to my car and attached a little switch to it. it seems fine it doesnt crunch and it doesnt ease onto the auto clutch plates, it just shifts. im going to see how it goes for a few days, so far so good.

129db @ 4800rpm

yes yes, you look very toit.... toit like a toiiiga.

looks similar to Orion Silver. its the colour i wanted to spray a merc i had. will look pimpish with a light pink/purple pearl.

justjap have both boss kits, airbag and non airbag units. http://www.justjap.com/parts_ninterior.htm

ive been told the standard bov will leak at 14psi, when i got my car tuned by hitman he said i had a boost leak somewhere and all of my pipes were perfect. i bought a 2nd hand gtr bov which can handle way past 1 bar

justjap sell the gates timing belts for $99 idler and tensioners go for around $80 each (coventry auto). cam seals (have the same part number as the front crank seal on rb25's) go for $15 each from memory (LINCORP parramatta with SAU membership discount).

what i might do is try this out for a few shifts, then buy the MV valve body upgrade and see what the difference is.

autos do around 115 in 2nd. with the os giken gearset they do around 90 in 1st and around 150 in 2nd.

im curious to see what it feels like. ill report back once ive tried it.

looking for the drivers side sun visor and boot trim. is the front bar the m-spec front bar by any chance?

i had a nitro car a while ago. it was a road car though.. theyre fun little things. i sold it and recently bought an electric one. the nitros are such a bitch to maintain and hard to drift. but the buggies look fun. theyre the only nitros i'd buy. i dont think the bigger motors need to be richened up when they get hot, the smaller ones do so you're lucky there

6.7