SECURITY

mine has done over 220,000km on the factory alternator. i've had it since it was 110,000 and it hasnt died.... yet.

How about through your guard? Or there should be a factory hole already drilled on the firewall adjacent to the turbo but you'll have to cut through the rubber for it to fit. Look harder mate.

Oil

White usually means burnt oi.

i think its more about having a useful in-dash gauge, rather then having absolutely no warning before hitting 100 degrees and blowing a head gasket. if nissan provided a useful gauge, i believe it would have saved thousands of blown head gaskets around the world.

double post

thing about the factory water temp gauge is as soon as it moves above where the operating temperature (which is just under half way) it means your water temp has hit 105 degrees. if its hit that a few times you've probably blown your head gasket. a few ways to check if you've done this is to check for the following; - milky substance in your radiator or oil cap (if its cracked through an oil galley) - constant bubbles in your coolant (if its cracked through your combustion chamber) - white smoke out of your exhaust (water going through your combustion chamber) are you getting any of these?

what size are they, 11 or 14mm? what sort of plug do they use?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/128496-vins-you-want-fasted/

+1 i work in property development/project management which is a family business. i've also worked for many different companies and definitely prefer working for myself. i've come to realise that if your company is set up wrong then you will have nothing but long hours and a shitty working life. my first boss was like this. 30yrs old and running a multi million dollar construction/architecture company by himself while hiring backpackers to do random labouring and office work. it was an absolute nightmare, i had to leave to save my own sanity. the last place i worked had it all going for them. great management, perfect filing system, neat and very organised and everything had a due date in terms of payments and invoices. it ran like clock work. if you've got the critical operational tasks organised the rest will follow. you'll make your own business logic that flows from that. p.s. keep a day-to-day diary.

looks like a possibility as long as my manual conversion goes ahead... if not i MAY blow the auto for this.

for me to change my oil i use the factory oil pressure gauge to tell me when. if it hits a certain spot (while at OT and idle) a few times before 5,000km then i change it then. it all depends on how you drive your car... and essentially how you use your oil. its no good thrashing your car around and still only changing it at 5,000km when it needed to be changed at (for example) 3,000km when your oil pressure is a little lower then normal.

wut?

all the information is in that doc and in the rb30 build thread. you need to get an oil feed to the VCT if your head has VCT as the rb30 block doesnt have an oil galley that lines up with a VCT head. your best bet is to go into the rb30 build forums, read the main thread and then ask your questions if you're still having problems.

one thing i havent seen is a mobile dent remover as well as a detailer. diversifying is the key! good luck mate.

disconnect the turbo timer completely and see if that does anything. you could have something feeding power back into your ignition.

spot on. once you get the little fiddly things out of the way its much easier and much cheaper. especially if you break something you're spending $50 on a new block and you're set. if you've sourced a block thats already built i'd definitely be looking into getting it re-checked as well as throw in some new bearings and rings as well as have a look at the oil feeds are the right size, that way you've basically got a brand new one.

Follow the guide posted. Just get prices on machining from your local machine shop to do the crank collar machining and fitting as well as balancing everything.

I got my set for $35 from Nissan with a trade discount.

pretty sure the bare motors of series 1 and 2 rb25det are the same.

auto diff with manual box = great. your gears will stretch out a little more. as for wiring have a look here.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/347765-converting-my-r33-to-manual/ there is a link to another thread in that one with someone who has already completed an r34gtt conversion using an r33 box. lots of good info in there.

so that must also mean the radiator temp probe you're talking about takes the temp of the radiator and not the water. that doesnt make sense to me. a colder plenum will make minimal difference. the air is traveling at super speeds when entering the combustion chamber, it will still be entering at the temperature of the post-intercooled-air at higher rpm where these things would matter IMO.

how much fuel do you burn during the day? i want to do it on e85 and i want to know if i'd need a jery can.

why am i reminded by the ferrari california when i look at this thing?

the best way of testing your coil packs (without actually buying another set) is to keep closing up the gap of your spark plugs. if you've gone .7, try a .6 gap and see what happens. if it still doesnt fix it on .6 then it may be something else.