SECURITY

its definatly a head off job i got away with it with just pulling the head out the first time, we just removed the sump then it was all good, bit tricky but we didnt need a crane.

im in foshizzle

go into a paint supply store and get a tube of uretane. its the shit. it makes an awesome bond and with a bit of elbow grease and some metho, thinner or degreaser (degreaser works best ive found) it'll come off without damaging your paint.

my tuner said "you only get around 170kw out of the autos". im sitting on 191.6kw with fairly basic mods

it more than likely is your rear main seal. check if you're leaking from the back of the head too. your half moons or rocker seals could be worn too. to get to your rear main seal you'll need to take your gearbox off. the rear main seal sits in the rear main seal housing, not all cars have this housing but this is how it was on my car (rb25det). i had to undo bolts off the sump then some 10mm bolts holding the housing in. you wont need to undo your sump completley, those four or so bolts should do. make sure you use some gasket maker like ultra blue or ultra black when putting the new main seal in, one of them is the higher oil resistant one, so use that. use some more on the bottom of the housing to seal it between the sump. the main seal cost me around $20 with the sau discount from nissan.

ok who the f**k was it?

this isnt a very safe idea. whats good for one car may not be good for another. i'd put a warning like: EXPECT YOUR MOTOR TO BLOW IF YOU DONT GET A PRO TO TUNE YOUR CAR.

or your hoses. wash the car down and go for a spin. you'll see residue of coolant where the leak is. let us know where its leaking from and go from there.

a red hot turbo is something, i personally, would be proud of. looks sex.

no point. go into supercheap auto, they sell PWR cooler cores for cheap. i saw one bigger than mine (which i got from tranny cooler group buy) and it was cheaper. the bigger core was $80 and the group buy was somewhere near $118. and you'd get the trans cooler pipes for around $15. but in the end if you want an r33 auto cooler core, ive got my standard one here

try get someone to hold it open for you.

there is a clip that goes around your trigger wire: in the pic, its the thing on the very right, leave it open (not clipped) and check it that way.

the small one is for your aircon. the big one is the one we're talking about. are you using the standard clutch fan and having problems fitting that? or do you have an aftermarket thermo fan thats meant to be on the outiside of the engine bay?

thats just 1 factor. i agree that a mate will not have sympathy on your car but you'd give his car a go around a track too and compare times. you'll also have the advantage of knowing how your car handles in each situation as you've had more time in it. it doesnt take long to learn a car's characteristics on a track but it'd still give you a fair idea of who is the better driver.

ive got no experience with the pfc so if its that someone else will have to help you out. it could be your timing. base timing on an auto is 20btdc, base timing on a manual is 15btdc. has that been sorted? is the person that checking the timing leaving the clip that goes on the trigger wire open and not clipped? my timing was off by 10 when i had the clip clipped.

it all comes down to how he tuned it. noone is going to sit here and say 'run 12psi' then have your motor blow because your car is tuned for 7psi (example). that questions can only be answered by your tuner. he sounds shit so i'd be taking it somewhere else and get them to do it all for you.

doesnt the thermo fan go on the outside of engine bay? you're talking about the aircon fan, right? or have you fitted a thermo fan which is meant to go on the outside?

it comes down to the driver. GTR or no GTR, if you're a shit driver (or a good driver for that matter) it wont matter what car you've got. get someone with a good time to take your car around the same track... when someone beats you with your own car you've got problems.

meh ill take 2.

happy birthday sammehhhhhhh

my tuner told me: when using your timing light dont lock the little U clip thingo, keep it open but let it hang off the signal wire. i found that the difference this made was a -10BTDC, i set my timing to 17 with it locked and it ran like shit. later when i found out to keep the clip open it was on 6!

its has probably been de-gassed. to check if theres any gas in the system there is a little valve that looks like the tyre thingo, its usually has a cap over it, it runs from the condensor to the compressor on the front left of the motor. get a screw driver and push the little valve in and see if theres any pressure in the system. the gas is poisionous so dont breath it in.

you could fit the rb26 crank and rods into an rb25 with no problems, as long as you use gtr spec pistons.

im stealing it then.

ill take it.