SECURITY

thrust bearing is in your motor. its the big U shaped bearing on your main bearing set. its purpose is to stop the crank shaft from moving back and forth.

if it chirps into 3rd its fully sick.

can someone help her out with a pole? i might be in for the next one

just a suggestion if you're going to get serious about this, you might want to outlay the first thread like: Engine parts: (then sub-headings like injectors, bottom end, head) Body: Suspension: Iinduction: Exhaust: ill add: rb25 and rb26 rods are interchangeable (rb25neo have gtr rods standard). also, big end bearings are the same. water pumps are interchangeable between most rb motors, i.e. 20/25/26/30 are interchangeable but i read that you need to weld a hole if using the rb30 one (i didnt need to).

i was told to accelerate quick till 4000 when taking off, then take it easy after that. and my motor is running beautifully

what condition is the clutch you used in?

lol for those prices id want a tyre popping, car imponding quality smoke show.

there are alot of parts, this thread will probably die in the ass as they've all pretty much been covered. the most popular (read: important) mod to know is that GTR badges glue really well onto gtst's.

Finally a male blonde joke Three business men were sitting in a bar, drinking and discussing how stupid their wives were. the first says, "i tell you, my wife is so stupid. Last week she went to the supermarket and bought $300 worth of meat because it was on sale, and we dont even have a fridge big enough to keep it in!" The second agrees that she sounds pretty thick, but says his wife is thicker. "just last week, she went out and spent $17000 on a new car...... and she doesnt even know how to drive!!" The third, a blonde male, nods sagely and agrees that these two women sound like they both walked through the stupid forest and got hit by every branch. However, he still thinks his wife is dumber. "i have to laugh when i think about it", he chuckles. "last week my wife left on a vacation. I watched her packing her bags and she must have taken at least 5 boxes of condoms with her. She doesnt even have a penis!"

ahahahaha thats golden

both the idler and tensioner.

the filters in the autos are metal. just clean them out and save yourself the $70. nissan sell them for $80 with the SAU discount, i didnt end up getting it because the guy even told me to just clean it. i used some degreaser, then washed it out with water then blew it out with the compressor. dextron III is what most people use. you'll have around 8L of oil to replace if you want to do a complete oil change. you'll have around 3-4L in your gearbox sump, and another 4-5L in your torque converter. a good method is to undo the two oil lines going to your radiator (find out which one is the feed and which is the return), put the return into the new oil and the feed into a bucket, turn the car on (alot safer with 2 people so someone can turn the car on and off, and someone can keep an eye on the oil) and stop when the feed is draining oil that is close to the colour of the new oil, then check the oil level. you'll need around 2x 4L containers to do it properly. do this after you've cleaned/replaced the filter

i got quoted $250 for a clean and test (they remove and install for you).

you'll be paying anywhere around $1000 for parts and labour for a major service.

swap over your mate's CAS and see how you go, be aware of proper timing though.

sounds like shagged/unlubricated syncros (dont take my word for it, i drive an auto!!). try a gearbox oil change and see how you go from there. use the good stuff if you can.

if at first you dont succeed... get a flat head to lever it off.

its on the front side of the throttle body, you'll see a little black thing with 2x 7mm bolts on it (one on the top, one on the bottom). it adjusts clock wise and anti-clock wise. id recommend getting this done by a mechanic as you could lose power if you adjust it wrong (making your throttle open less than 100% at WOT). are you sure its not your CAS (long shot, but still possible)? get your timing checked out.

w00t thanks mate!

my fix is more permanent

im sure ceramic coating of the bores and pistons etc will help reduce the strain caused by heat if you wanted to go over standard size.

i connected mine to #1. on idle on a cold day it'll read around 10-12. in the hottest day of summer it read 45 but it only reached that after giving it a hard time.

ive got the same problem

dibs on the turbos.

go with a remap. it shouldnt cost you much. it'll leave a little room for the turbo etc.