the standard ecu has stock values but has the ability to learn if you've changed airflow etc no matter what you had before. the values change but not by much, it'll still put out the same values of airflow, timing etc after a battery change.
the safc stores all tuned data in its memory.
my car had no power into it for 6 months (rebuild) and when i put it back together it was exactly how i left it.
its nothing to worry about.
ive got an safc2 in my auto. i got 191rwkw on similar mods. i was a bit strapped for cash at the time and ended up paying 400 brand new + 200 for the tune.
for an extra $300 you can get a PFC (unless you get the safc 2nd hand) but the tune will cost around $500.
the safc2 only plays with your AF's whereas you could always add more components to an e-manage to make it almost like a stand alone ecu if you want to go for bigger power later on.
PFC seems to be the best value for money though.
justjap have a sump plug with a different thread all together with a magnet attached. after the rebuild this is what i used to pick up all the metal shavings. it doesnt leak and it fits in tighter than my standard plug. give it a go, theyre only around $15.
we were going opposite ways.
i saw lights, looked away, looked back and saw the ass end of an r33, looked away, looked back and i saw the 555 of your number plate in my side mirror.
i was like... heyyy i know him.
spotted MAR555 on oxford st. tonight.
didnt realise it was you till i saw your number plate in my side mirror.
and some dude in a huge 4wd stole your plates mass!! it was [MASSIV]
250 should be fine for the auto box, just make sure you fit a decent sized tranny oil cooler. Abo Bob has rebuilt his with kevlar bits, if mine ever blows or i choose to go over 250kw (whichever comes first) i'd give it the same treatment.
im not really interested in a manual conversion because ive beaten a few gtst's on the street who have the same mods and if theres no real performance gain then i dont see the point. autos are fun too
next step is a shift kit.
i'd do the mods in this order:
fuel system
turbo + computer + tune
suspension + wheels and tyres
ive got an exhaust fan in my toilet too!
anyways, its a complete load of crap. i read some REAL testamonies (type turbonator review in google) and they all said it was complete rubbish.
there is an air filter that makes the air swirl into the intake, but i forget which one exactly. the apexi design is good too.
look in the trader section (RACESPEC sells them) for a single 16" fan or twin 12" fans.
a single 13" fan wont cut it.
link to the RACESPEC thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=95290&hl=
Unique Auto Sports sell them ( http://www.uniqueautosports.com/ ) ... they're up in the $300's for the CF one, cheaper for the plastic ones.
id prefer one that utilises the pick-up from the stock airbox though.
i think randy thinks it needs to be in gear to crank
i was talking about 2 different methods in my post.
its 4th if you're using a lever to crack the bolt. and NEUTRAL or (park if its an auto) to crank.
the usual way to get these bolts cracked is to have a breaker bar kind of wedged onto the ground and then cranking your motor. that will loosen the bolt. its 27mm from memory.. if not that its 24mm.
you could probably get a long breaker bar and lever it off. you can probably stop the engine from turning by sticking it into 1st. someone will correct me if im wrong.