SECURITY

i used silicon, its alot thicker than grease.

faulty gauge?

its a fancy air filter. these guys go to alot of effort to make these things look shmick. plus the exhaust is on the other side

IN for for crashing the next supra cruise.

this is the result of ping:

i just dont think its a good idea to have your car running while its pumping out 9L of oil.

i used dextron III. be careful when filling it up. i used around 3-3.5L when filling mine back up. when reading the dipstick it has a COLD and a HOT section, after putting in around 3L, turn the car on then check it. make sure you're checking it when its cold when looking at the COLD section and hot in the HOT section. it doesnt take long for it to heat up when idling.

so whens the bankstown thread opening?

thanks man, i doubt its a broken stud. im pretty sure its coming from the left hand side. i saw oil on the vct return, so its probably from around there if not there, ill have a look tomorrow. thanks again.

thanks for that guys, i was worried i'd need to pull the pump off. its not leaking from the power steering pump, the leak drips onto the ground from the power steering pulley. the oil coming out is clean engine oil. can you explain this one for me mate?

When i rebuilt my motor, i used an N1 oil pump on my rb25 crank. i was told by alot of people that it would go straight on without any need for a collar. the leak is coming from around the front left hand side of the motor, there is no oil on the HB, but there on the power steering pulley. the leak comes out in little drops too. is there any other place it coud be coming from?

that would be true if all he had was air in his cooling system. even if it was true, he would be reading the air temp which would still be high. if he has air in his cooling system there would be less amounts of water in his radiator, the less water there is, the hotter it will get.

your cheapest and easiest option would be to replace the thermostat and see where that gets you. dont let it get to the top! you could do your head gasket quite easily.

theres 1 on each corner at the front. stick your head under there and you'll see it. its hard to miss.

happy birthday guys

no worries mate. im talking about the access through the boot. there is a panel with 4 bolts holding it in, next to your battery in the boot. i recommend you wait till your tank is almost empty before you do this. 1. take the panel off 2. disconnect the looms (leave the hoses running from the lid because fuel will rush out of it. watch out you dont damage any when loosening the cap). 3. get a plank of wood or a long screw driver and hammer then hold it onto the little little fin things on the cap, then hammer it around to loosen (let me know if this needs to be explained a bit better). watch out for the rubber seal around the lid. 4. detach the fuel lines and remember where each one goes. the reason i left the hoses for this stage is when the fuel starts rushing out you'll be able to let it flow back into the fuel tank. 5. grab the level sender and mount the sucker back on. 6. when putting the lid back on, i recommend using a bit of WD40 to get the lid and the rubber seal sitting snug inside where the cap goes on. you'll know what i mean when you see it. 7. put the rest on in the reverse order and it should be right here are pics of what it looks like in the r33's and where it should be inside the tank once mounted:

ill see you guys there

someone keep an eye out on the supra forums events so we can 'coincidently' be at the next meet. only problem i see is we'll have to take it a bit easy so we dont get too far ahead of them when its time to cruise.

check your level sender in the fuel tank mate. its common for them to fall off their hooks in the 33's. my car used to show a full tank till i got a half tank then it dropped almost instantly. just open the fuel tank, re-mount it and it should be right.

damn!! that sucks majorly!! my alarm went off when a mate farted while leaning on it so i dont really check it every time it goes off. i think i will from now on watch out because these things usually come in 3's. i hope you get it sorted soon dude!

it will probably cost you more than a nice aftermarket steering wheel. prices will vary and dont forget you'll be steering with a spanner for a few days while they replace the leather on your steering wheel

dont worry, theyre all talk. if i was you i would've gone for the hell of it. if you went it wouldnt be any different than any other cruise except it would be lacking a few skylines. if anything they'll all be trying to give you a run and then talk about it when you all stop. you shouldnt let what one idiot says reflect the rest of the forum, especially if it stops you from cruising with your mate.

throttle position sensor. its the little black thing on the front side of the throttle body, its adjustable and if its out of wack it will effect when your car changes gears.

they usually send the EPA letter a week or so later. you'll probably get that soon. as long as your car checked out to be under 90db and you had proof of that when you went to get the blue slip, then there was no reason for them not to pass you. all you need to do is comply with the standard, not be standard. you might need to explain that part to them. also, if you get the EPA letter i suggest clearing that before going for the blue slip.

dont bother doing it if you're sticking with the stock or hi-flow stock turbo. if you are going to do it anyway i'd definatley get ALL of your manifold studs replaced, if they dont break now, they will later. when i took my exhaust manifold off i snapped around 6 studs and replaced all of them. nissan sell the studs pretty cheap. you'll get the full set of 12 for under $20, it'll be around the $12 mark if you're an SAU member. anyways, dont do it if you're looking for big gains on the stock turbo. the money can be better spent elsewhere.