SECURITY

yeah that will happen. if the oil is low it will create heat as well as drop the oil pressure inside the box. the auto's gear changes relies on the oil pressure. change your oil and see where that gets you. you may as well drop the sump off and clean the filter as well.

have you checked your transmission oil level?

what oil did you soak them in? diesel oil works best to get the crap out of your lifters.... or convert to solid lifters.

before i had my splitfire coil packs i had the same problem as you. i had to run a .65 gap. try that and see where it gets you. if it fixes your problem then your coil packs need replacing.

post a pic. the gasket you've shown is less than 1mm thick mate.

idle speed is good at 650rpm. i'd be looking at the AAC valve for the revs dropping too low. also, the timing for an auto is 20deg btdc. check it with a timing light.

get a wideband, connect it. learn to use auto tune. if you get familiar with the data logger you can get on the PPo2 website (http://ppo2performance.com/docs/?cat=4) and get the baseline software which takes your data logs and helps you fine tune your fuel map. its a very smart piece of kit for the emanage. i was one of the testers in its early stages and this guy has spent a LOAD of time and effort getting it right. keep in mind its still in its beta stage.

i can see how it would get into the sump (via. external oil feed or even down an oil return if theyre drilled out) but for it to get into the pick-up then the oil pump is very interesting. any theories Duncan?

I was commenting on the workshop Duncan mentioned.

My thoughts exactly. It also helps if you're sponsored by the workshop mentioned Although I've heard nothing but good things about nitto parts. Unlike your sponsor haha

They are good for what you're paying for but wouldn't you want the stability of a stand alone ecu if you're going to push the car above 250kw? And as you said it's not worth using one as you are limited with tuners. Just a tip if you decide to keep it, don't bother with a map sensor. Keep using an AFM as the map sensor tables (to eliminate the AFM) are a bitch to get right.

ive had 2x044's fail on cars who have installed them in-tank. the 044 is not an in-tank pump. the 040 is. walbro is cheaper and works really well.

Sorry bud, I meant under the fuse box toward the front of the engine bay.

lol good point! check that first

with my timing light i found that when i clip on the sensor wire it doesnt give a proper reading, i just leave the sensor unclipped and 'hanging' off the loop wire it works fine. bit weird but it works.

there are a set of 4 looms at the front of the engine bay, under the battery. disconnect all 4, clean them with contact cleaner and try close up the wire clamp things inside the looms so they close tighter when you plug them back in. you'll know what im taking about when you see them. that should fix your problem.

make sure you've got the right fuse. how many amps does the box say it is supposed to be and how many amps is the fuse you have in there?

bump

hey mate, interested in the box. was it making any noises? clunking? crunching? was it sticky at all? did it ever pop out of gear? whats included? how would we organise postage to sydney 2211?

try adding an extra earth cable from your alternator to your chassis.

if you're talking lambda then yes, you could use the same gauge (but not the same lambda values). a gas calibrated afr gauge will always show the afr's for gas, its not showing the true values for e85. for example; gas stoich = 1 lambda (14.7 afr) gas moderate boost = 0.85 lambda (12.5afr) e85 stoich = 1 lambda (9.76afr) e85 moderate boost = 0.71 lambda (6.92afr) what your afr gauge does is multiply the lambda values by its target fuel's stoich which is how we get our target afr's. so on a gas afr gauge you arent seeing the 9.76 stoich of e85, you're seeing the 14.7 of gas (e85 stoich will always be 14.7afr on a gas wideband as you are still multiplying by 1, but that is where the similarity stops). therefore, on a gas calibrated afr gauge you will multiply e85's lambda values by 14.7. e85 moderate boost = 0.71 x 14.7 = 10.43afr on a gas calibrated wideband.

from my own research and tuning experience ive seen the following work on e85 cars using gas widebands... idle = 13.9-14.2 afr accelerating in vacuum = 14.7-15 afr light load (0-5psi) = 12.5-13 afr moderate load (6-20psi) = 11.5afr full load/WOT (20psi+) = 10.5-11afr whether or not that is conservative or aggressive is your job to figure out but in my opinion e85 can run those gas afr's comfortably. i'm currently in the same boat as you - im tuning e85 with a gas wideband till i do my research on buying a lambda wideband.

im looking for one in sydney mate.

i'd be looking at how your PCV is set up. return your PCV to stock and see how you go then. if its still doing it after you return your PCV set up to stock and its still only doing it on deceleration then i'd then be looking at your valve stem seals.

it definitely sounds like a battery/alternator issue to me as well. this doesnt mean that either are stuffed, you just need to check your terminals properly. first thing i'd try is a separate earth from the alternator housing to the chassis and see where that gets you. try use a thick earth wire for this. then try the earth on the battery. if thats no good then get someone who knows how to use a multimeter to test your alternator and battery.