SECURITY

5 days later and my car hasnt gotten stuck in 1st a single time

its actually a common problem with the autos. i've found that adjusting your TPS helps. if you searched (or scrolled down a few threads) you would've seen it

they'll tell you that if it was under 3k or 5k damage that you dont need a police report (i think). you should've gotten him to sign off on him being at fault and a small list of what the damage looks like. make sure you tell your insurance company that you were established in your lane, and he wasnt. if you report it to insurance, the damage will support your story anyway. hope it works out dude. goodluck.

it all comes down to peace of mind. for all you know the previous owner did an engine swap before he sold it. its not likley, but you cant tell me that it isnt possible. we're giving you advice that may save you from posting here in the near future. i recommend you do a major service at least, and a dyno run/tune if you like.

i found that, its a good guide to re-adjust it. i got it off here... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=110431

i thought the TT rx7's were staged, not sequential.

yep. but i was saying thats how i get it out of first when it used to get stuck in 1st.

before, it was in the middle (sorry ive never adjusted one before so thats about how technical im going to get). i adjusted it by turning it anti-clock wise.

hey guys, i know theres another thread but it didnt seem to be the right solution. im sure ive got it this time i was sitting around wondering why sometimes while in 2nd it would drop into 1st and stays there, especially on bumpy roads or while going over speed hump. i also wondered why pushing the snow button shifts it into 2nd electronically. i figured it would be something electrical rather than mechanical, so i thought i'd try the throttle position sensor and see where that takes me, so i loosened it, played with it a bit till my idle was sitting right again (adjusting your TPS adjusts your idle), i tightened it back up, took it for a drive and its been fine ever since. for some reason shifts are alot smoother too. i did this 2 days ago and ever since its been fine. what are your opinions? can someone with the sticky 1st issue try this and see if it works for them too?

I figured i'd take some pics while i was doing this and decided to turn it into a D.I.Y. - drive your car up some ramps or jack it up and put some stands underneath it. DO THIS SOMEWHERE WHERE IT IS O.K. TO MAKE A MESS - find a decent sized container, it needs to be at least 5L and put it under your drain plug, from memory the bolt is 17mm. i keep spare oil containers around, and ive got one specifically that i've cut the sides off to dump oil into, then use that to pour oil into another oil container. - once all the oil has drained, you can start loosening the 10mm bolts holding the gearbox sump in, there are a few in tricky positions so you're best bet is to use a 1/4" set. when the sump is about to come off, watch out for more oil. i didnt bother taking pics up till this stage as its all pretty self explanitory. - once the sump comes off you'll be faced with something that looks like this: this part is the filter, it has 4 long 10mm bolts holding it in, then its a matter of pulling it straight out. - now that you've got the sump and the filter out, take them somewhere you can clean them. i suggest using fuel or degreaser, just make sure you wash it all off thoroughly before you put your gearbox back together. - the sump has a little magnet on it, its normal to have a small build up of very fine metal on it, but look out for any larger than normal sized bits, if you do find any larger than normal pieces i'd definatley have a transmission specialist look at it as its not a good sign in regards to the condition of your gearbox. pic of my sump and magnet cleaned: - just before you put your filter on, check that all of the looms are connected properly (you dont really have to do it, but might as well while its all off). - put everything back on in the reverse order. putting the sump on will be a bit tricky though, i suggest holding up the sump with one hand and putting in 2 bolts on opposite ends of the sump in, then going on from there. when putting on an engine sump, we usually start doing up the bolts from the middle then work out way out so the sump seals properly. i suggest doing the same with the transmission sump, its probably not essential, but its good practice. this is an order you could use, it doesnt matter which order you go in from 11 onwards, its the first 10 that are important (yes, im a perfectionist). make sure your drain plug is tightly on. - now its time to fill your auto box up. i used canstrol dextron III. i suggest filling it up with 3-3.5L then running the car and driving it off the ramps onto a flat, level surface then wait for the oil to circulate for a little bit. leave the car on and put it in the Park position, make sure the hand brake is up while checking your levels. take the dipstick out, wipe it with a clean rag, then check your level. if the engine is cold, it should be within the "COLD" marks of the dipstick. If the car was driven and is fully warmed up, the level should be at the upper end of the "HOT" mark. wait till the car is warmed up and check the levels then. top it up if it needs it or drain a bit if you've over filled it. NEVER OVER-FILL YOUR AUTO GEARBOX. keep it on, or just under maximum at all times. over filling could cause problems as the gearbox runs off pressures to change gears etc. the last step is to bleed your system. take it for a spin, let it go through all gears and you're done cheers.

my trans cooler is sitting where the standard cooler was. there is group buy on with the davies craig auto cooler kits, its not really a group buy, its just offered at a reduced price of $118 with everything you'll need. i didnt like the way they suggested to mount them so i made up my own style, i'll post some pics tomorrow. and it is a DIY job. i do downshift when stopping, and i do drop it into 2nd when cruising at 60 to feel some G's. i have been for 2yrs and my box doesnt slip or anything. i used castrol dextron III with my oil change. i'll be posting up a "how to" on changing oil and cleaning the filter inside the auto's (r33) so look out for it.

if you're hearing a click every time you push the button and nothing happens its usually the window amp. before you go off and buy a new one, open it up and clean it. use some contact cleaner and get in there with a clean cloth and clean the surfaces. if that doesnt work then get a new one. last i checked they were around $15 -$20 from a wrecker. before you go and buy a motor, check if there is any power getting to it with a multimeter.

yeah that was me.. i saw you as soon as i passed the lights.

happy birthday bretto!!

if you dont grab mad082's set id try posting in the Wanted To Buy section and see how you go.

damn! i had a pair on my car before the paint job, i had them laying around till i cleaned out my garage a month ago!! doh!

wankers will go all out and stick a GTR badge on their gts. i believe the word you're looking for is tool

it could be for all those gtst owners running rb26's in their cars.

best way to find out is to get a stethescope and put it up to the block and listen out for knocking. but dont stress. the rb25's have been known to survive on minimal amounts of oil.

you cant blame the bloke for trying to do something on his car. a sandwich plate is piss easy to install. just because you pay someone to do your work for you doesnt give you any right to slander someone else's efforts. he made a mistake, give whatever technical advice you have (in this case, nil), and move on. i've even got a leak out of my one. the leak on mine is coming out of the bolt thats meant to be blocking one of the holes. the rb25's are good when low on oil. i dont think he did any real damage otherwise he would've posted a topic that said "just fitted sandwich plate now my motor sounds like shit!!", but he didnt. in my opinion, if the oil light didnt come on then you're safe, your engine should be fine.. just refill and listen out for any knocking or ticking then report back.

ive changed my number guys. sorry for all those who have been trying to get through. i've updated the first thread with it. cheers.

the trans oil passes through the radiator into a front mounted core. swapping over a core is easy on an auto as its got a feed and return that leads from under the front right hand headlight.

i'd have his babies.. i mean hers.

the dyno graph posted shows 17-20psi

i dont think the manual boxes need cooling, just the autos.. its got to do with the type of oil thats used. also i dont think the manual boxes have an outlet for a cooler to be fitted. someone correct me if im wrong.