SECURITY

in that case its just a matter of swapping them over. it consists of 2x12mm bolts holding the BOV in, a vacuum hose and a hose with 2 clamps to fit onto the stocky. i'll take a pic of it close up for you tomorrow.

im going off figures ive seen and got quoted myself. my paint job was for everything except the engine bay. the quality of the job isnt the best but the 2500 i paid was including a bit of damage that was on the car, completley strip it and to completley straighten the body. the panel beating work was excellent, it was actually the primer he used that stuffed up the job (thats why i recommend to buy your own paint etc). ive got a few paint chips but its only minor.. here are a few pics of what it was stripped down to (front windscreen was removed later that day):

didnt know that.. i thought it applied throughout the tournament.

its all there ready to be clamped on. there should be something blocking off the hose so take it off and attach it to your new bov. if you've got idling issues i think you should do a search on "AAC Valve" that'll get you started.

anyways.. all he wants is a re-spray on his exterior panels. im sure you'll get quoted less than 2k for a quality job SLO-W32.

4k for a full colour change is reasonable. queen st. will charge 3-4k for a full colour change. i dont know where you're getting your prices from mate but 4k for a re-spray is pretty expensive.

i'd be suprised if he gets quoted over 1500 for a cut back and re-spray.. he's spraying his car the same colour so it isnt really that much labour involved. if you said you'd cut the car back yourself you'd be saving even more. i recommend buying the paint yourself too.

half of the italian team has been yellow carded so most of their better players wont be playing. italy wont make it to the next round.

lucky for you black is easy to paint, you'll be paying around 1500 for a re-spray in the same black. my mate owns exotic smash repairs in milperra, give them a call (i dont have the number on me so try yellow pages). just head down there and he'll give you a price. tell him joe with the yellow skyline sent you and he'll take care of you. i got some other guy to spray my car and i paid $2500 and its the shittest paint job ive ever seen. i'll be taking my car down to exotic soon to get it all fixed up properly.

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thought so, thats why i said dont quote me .. i remember reading somewhere that the pfc knock sensor isnt that accurate.

haha awesome!

first time ive been spotted w00t!

bump

you're getting a knock reading, this guy is getting a knock sound. a tune will fix your knock reading, but as far as i know 60-80 is normal on a pfc? dont quote me. there are 4 for each cylinder... 2 on the inlet side and 2 on the exhaust side. the knock sensors are in the block.. they wont detect the lifters in the head.

theyve pretty much got the same purpose of roller rockers. they sit right under the cam shafts, its the first thing you'll see once theyre off. it shouldnt be too expensive to fix, i got away with replacing my lifters that were stuffed without undoing the timing belt tensioner. each lifter cost me $75 each with the SAU discount from nissan, retail is around the $118 mark, someone said that UAS in sydney sell them for $45 each.

im thinking lifters too. is it a light tapping (in the head) noise that gets quicker as the rpm rises or does it sound like theres something loose in your bottom end? if you stick your head under the car can you hear it better?

haha you wish fag boy.

hahahaha how did i know you were going to make a pass at a "your mum" comment? btw guys, just to adding that ive got pm's of this guy asking me dumb questions like "how do i check compression? what do you mean use a gauge? im a big gaylord who likes men and stuff"

your bf must really love the dick.

im sure you did.

wide open throttle is the term used when talking about when the throttle is 100% open, he didnt just say WOT which is the abbreviation used because you would've said...

WOT will allow air to enter the cylinder easier and free'er which is why the results are more accurate. not doing the test at WOT may give you readings of 10-15psi less which is what i've noticed in the past.

knew it. glad its all sorted. 145-150 is a spot on figure for a car of that age. nothing to worry about.

get under the car and undo the bracket for your front pipe first. undoing the flange bolts where the dump meets the front pipe would be your 2nd step. if you're handy with a tool set then it shouldnt be that much of a headache. you might need some open ended spanners though. i tackled most of the job with a rattle gun.