SECURITY

what bov are you using?

its probably air being pushed back onto your turbo blades. aftermarket BOV's usually have harder springs which will sometimes stop the valve from opening under normal driving with standard boost. if your BOV is adjustable, try putting it on the loosest setting, go for a drive then get back to us.

make sure you dont boost it at all and keep it under 3-4000 rpm. when you're taking off try to accelerate quick, but keep it under 3000rpm. this will throw your rings out and help with the bedding in process. use a mineral based oil.

damn... i was about to ask if you'd seperate parts if nobody wanted it

alot of car manufacturers use other manufacturers parts. on my mate's my01 rex, he has nissan window switches/relays. its a usual thing.. i heard holden used a whole nissan engine

yep.. ive got around 10 fines from the m7. all with the $10 fee. ive done around 140 from where the m7 meets the m5 to woodstock rd a few times and no speeding fines as yet.

the best thing about the r33's is you can fit whatever width wheel/tyres you want (within reason ofcorse). you shouldnt have any clearance problems with standard rims and tyres from another car. i had 19x10's on the rears and they were fine. this is a pic of my car jacked up on these rims.. they sat fine:

15btdc

awesome news mate. i'd go get everything looked at by a mechanic once you've got it back, get a service done too because you really dont know what they could've done to it.

oil filter only really needs to be tightened to 16Nm. you can achieve this by hand tightening it, as long as you place a small film of oil on the seal when installing one, it should be reasonably easy to remove by hand.

think of it this way. they've fit 6 gears into the same bell housing as the 5 speed. 2 of my mates have swapped over to the 5 speed in their s15's after breaking the 6 speed.

that was for an r33 rb25. if you join and buy this kit then its already paid itself off

last night i got into a bit of trouble. came out of a servo sideways in my m3. hit 2nd and i was still going sideways till i got into 3rd when i started to let off. i got to a set of lights when a highway patrol came next to me and told me to pull over, so i did. she took my license, had a look at my record (ive been suspended for racing and doing 45 and over, 8 or so seperate speeding tickets as well as negligent driving, ive been suspended 5 times for a total duration of around 2yrs). she came back and said "give me 1 good reason why i shouldnt give you a fine". i started saying i was sorry and that i hadnt had my car on the road so i was taking out my frustrations on the car i was driving. she mentioned that 2 nights ago i had been talked to about my r33 and how i got an EPA notice. i explained to her that i had no compression on #1 so it was sounding really shit and loud. she was understanding so she let me off saying how dangerous it is to drive like that and i was lucky i didnt hit anyone. ive just gone and bought a lotto ticket.

post this in the turbo performance section.

awesome.. thanks alot guys. does that mean i'll need to re-tune my safc?

ive put rb26 rods into my rb25 when i rebuit it with stock pistons. what would my gains be by doing this? i know rb26 rods are stronger but how will they effect the characteristics of my motor?

wastegate actuator rod shouldnt budge unless you're pulling quite hard. the backfiring noise is normal. when you BOV vents, it vents out air that is supposed to go into your combustion chamber. this causes the a/f to richen up at that point. the richer mix then ignites in your exhaust causing a loud pop.

chances are its your battery as RANDY said. to get it started keep the car thats jumping you at around 2000rpm with all electrics off (radio, lights etc), give the battery time to build up some power then turn it over. i bought a new (cheapo) battery after the first time i got my car on the road after the first rebuild, 2 days later i took it off the road (didnt disconnect it) and 2 months after that i tried starting it and not only was it a complete c**t to start, it wouldnt turn back on if i turned it off. moral of the story - disconnect your battery if you're not going to drive it for a while, especially if its crappy/old.

only catch is you've got to be a financial member of SAU if you dont have a trade card.

i got my VRS kit from Lincorp in parramatta (which offer SAU members discounts) for $160 trade without the valve stem seals. its $244 with them.

yeah some are alright. once my brother got booked for all of the defects on my car by being a prick, which is 9 in total. then when i got pulled over they didnt really say anything as im pretty chatty to coppers.. believe it or not they only said, "mate did you realise you dont have a light shining on your rear number plate?".. i was pretty stunned when he let me go with a warning for it too.

and MAR555's 33 is silver too.... hmmmm

-undo bottom radiator hose off the thermostat housing, you'll only really need to undo the top clamp (thermostat housing is just behind where your water pump is) -remove the 3 bolts off your thermostat housing -remove the thermostat (it just pulls out) -replace thermostat and make sure you get a new gasket for the housing, it costs around $2 for one. NOTE: if the person who had it before you used gasket maker, make sure you clean it all off before putting the new gasket in. i used the new gasket plus a bit of gasket maker.. i dont see the harm. -put it all back together in the reverse order... it shouldnt take more than 10 - 15mins, you'll lose a bit of coolant out of the head so have some ready to refill. -top the water up, start the car, top up some more then bleed your system immediatley... then top up some more if needed. dont forget to top it up some more.

i was thinking of using them for when i go to wsid because ive got shitty 205's, but i got in too late anyway.. goodluck with the sale mate.

im interested.. im just a bit iffy about punctures and the like. can you get me a closer pic of the tread?