SECURITY

it wouldnt be THAT hard, just a bit of a prick. just remove all the spark plugs except the cylinder you're testing. get a 27mm socket on a rachet. then turn the bolt thats holding your harmonic balancer in... that'll give you a compression reading. anything above 160 is pretty good, and make sure all cylinders are within 3% (i think) of each others readings. other than that have a look for water leaks around the block and water pump and general oil leaks around the motor. anyone who sells you a motor gives you some kind of warranty of around 3 months so just make sure its in the car before 3 months and send it to a mechanic to get checked thoroughly.

its as wrecked as its going to get. only thing that will happen is the unit thats doing the clicking will keep clicking. i'd offer to help but its something you'd only want to do once LOL.

head down to Payless Tyres in chullora (cnr of hume hwy and king georges rd). ask for jeff, and tell him joe with the yellow skyline sent you. when my cars back on the road i'm gonna head down and talk to him about an SAU discount account there on new tyres.. but tell him i sent you and he'll hook you up with some 2nd handies for cheap.

my car should be running within a few days. have a look in the events section at the cruise destinations thread. it'll give u an idea of where we usually end up.

yeah i drive it on the road.. but since last december its been sitting in my driveway. im almost done with getting it running. just gotta connect it all up we'll organise a cruise with all SAU'ers, no point in having a cruise with 4 people showing up, it'll be crap. we'll just cruise there and back together. i'll be organising one soon anyway

its chopped my motor twice

bankstown boy here too.

whats it mean? what is it a reading of is what im asking.

on my safc ive got an airflow meter. it reads in %. does anyone know what it means and how its read?

grab a clean cloth then shove it down the #6 spark plug hole (use a screw driver to push it down if you like). pull it out and check if its just fuel thats in there. any signs of oil and you've done one of your rings. check if hes blowing blue smoke which is another sign of damages rings.

ahh ok.. well thats good to know. so that means doodz is meant to have one anyway.

my 33 has a stadard dash light dimmer... are you sure its connected or just undiscovered? here is where mine is located.. check if yours works.

pm replied.

got pics of the a-pillar mount?

postage is a killer on these. it'll probably be worth the same as the bar. i got a quote of $150 to canberra, and im in sydney. let me know if you want me to get a price anyway mate.

big thumbs up for the ATF cooler. looks great and uses a davies craig cooler core.

prices dropped

could be a vacuum hose too

the only reason i'd tie the thrust bearing to it is before my 1st build it had little movement and it would get stuck on occasion. when i went with the oil pressure problem it got worse.. and eded up having alot of movement... so i figured the problems could be tied. im not sure how it works, but the torque converter sits on the back of the crank in the autos (i think). maybe its got to do with that?

the problem is when the car gets stuck in 1st gear and wont shift to 2nd unless it revvs rigth through to almost redline (or with the r33's, push the snow button). well ive read around about the auto boxes and so far ive gathered the following: - even after a gearbox change, the problem still exists. - could possibly be electrical, but noone knows for sure. - or this: when i sent my crank off to get machined, they told me i need a new crank because my thrust bearing was worn over the 5 thou limit.. it was at 20 thou! when we put my car back together the first time we noticed the oil pressure to be a bit low (too low). even after being warned by my bro in law (mechanic) that there was a problem, i still insisted on taking it out for the weekend and checking pressure later. i drove quite a fair bit, around 250k's that weekend and noticed that i got the sticky 1st problem more regular than usual (from once every few days, to 5 or 6 times in that day). i was just thinking that they were related because the problem got worse as the thrust bearing got worn away from the low oil pressure (and on the autos the crank is connected to the torque converter). i dont know how the torque converter works, but i was told that i may be right. thats why i came here... let me know what you guys think and if the problems could be related.

for the price of a 34gtt you can get a 33 gtr. go for a 33gtr! or buy my car and i'll go get a 33gtr

my bar is damaged im waiting on some new suspension though.

my cars lower.. with my gtr front bar it sits around 60mm off the ground

you'll only need to take all of your belts off. you could get away with keeping your timing belt on if you're REALLY careful. just undo the screws (remember which screw goes where), scrape off the old gasket off both surfaces, make sure theyre nice and clean too. get the new pump and put the new studs into it (if you dont know how, let me know and i'll type it all up for you). slap on some gasket maker on it and screw it on. a few things to remember: - be careful when taking off your fan, its a prick of a job in the position its in. - REMEMBER which side the water pump pully is facing, last thing you want is to put it on the wrong way.

might need a bit more detail. where exactly? you might have a leaking hose that is letting water go around the sump.