SECURITY

you too chicko! happy new year

why cant you just swap over the fuel pump? its really easy in the r32. you just open the boot, remove the carpet and its all there infront of you, the pump just lifts out too. if your pump is making noises and you are having running problems, logic would say that it is your fuel pump dying or to at least rule it out FIRST.

im also thinking you've mixed up s1 and s2 ignition parts. either use s1 coil packs and ignitor pack or just the s2 coil packs (not sure if you need to use the s2 ecu if you're using the s2 coil packs though). ive installed a s2 engine using all of my s1 accessories - works perfectly fine. the only issue you'll have with the s2 throttle body is the loom plug - you'll have to check if the s1 fits as it has 2 plugs coming off the TPS. the series 1 and 2 CAS's are interchangeable.

$80!!

anyone?

they can defect you for anything they THINK is defectable but they can not fine you for something they THINK is a defect. the mechanic that inspects the car will know if its a defect or not, it doesnt matter what they write on the slip.

make an offer

the standard water temp gauge doesnt move till around 105 degrees. kind've sucks hey? ive got a thermo fan that im going to wire into my ECU (vipec), so when the temp hits over 90deg it turns on. other then using an aftermarket ECU, you will have to install a thermo fan controller. im unsure of the temps they kick in at or if they are adjustable but im sure there are some floating around on ebay. worst case - get a separate gauge and install a switch.

if you put the restrictor just behind the muffler you wouldnt have needed the silencer at all mate.

yeah mate - if you had told us that you had a silencer in the car we would've told you that they do not accept them. they will accept a silencer that is welded in 3 spots (tak welded only). it doesnt have to be completely welded. this is why we recommended the guy in campbelltown - he actually knows the rules.

people have replaced the carbon inside their coil packs with the ones inside the commodore v8 distributor caps. much cheaper then replacing coil packs and you get 2 spare lol.

Duncan, thats good news about the workshop, i stand corrected on that matter. Either way you made the right choice! this may help; http://www.oil-lab.c...sis_Reports.pdf this guy's website is quite informative in terms of giving acceptable limits. there is also a forum where you can submit your oil analysis and get some feedback too. http://www.bobistheo...id=50&Itemid=56 forum: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=3&page=1

Duncan, change your engine builder and I guarantee all of your engine failure worries will go away. Its not just about how they build, its the advice they give that prevents these things from happening. My first engine failure with them was the same sort of thing - bad clearances. 2nd was due to crap in the cooling system - my radiator literally came back brown and overheated cracking a head gasket. 3rd was bad rings (my theory is they re-used the old rings and only swapped over the head gasket when it blew). In the end you can only blame yourself for taking it back to the same place. You will probably delete this post, either way its food for thought.

awesome, thanks for that mate.

r33 gtst doesnt have an air temp sensor.

parts needed for the conversion: Manual box (der) Manual gearbox mount Clutch + brake pedal Flywheel Spigot bearing Clutch slave + master cylinder Drive shaft Gear stick Manual gear stick surround other stuff: manual cluster (optional) manual gearbox loom (to make the wiring a bit easier). also optional. fluids is there anything else im missing?

okay so i've done a bit of research on how to get this all done, it sounds simple enough for me so i MIGHT attempt it. either way this is where i'll be dumping all of my info and if i do it myself i'll try and get a step-by-step happening. my main issue is the wiring, so far i've gotten the following information from different parts of the net. you have 2 options when wiring - you can cut off the auto loom and solder in a manual one and just connect everything or do the following; you need to connect 3 looms to the manual box; - speed sensor, neutral (drops idle/timing to suit), reverse (to turn the reverse lights on). imagining the box is mounted, the speedo sensor sits at the front of the 3 looms, then reverse and neutral is the last. the speedo sensors have universal looms so they just plug right into manual/auto without any modifications. there are a group of five other cables that come off the auto gearbox (near the fuse box). there are 2 larger gauge wires that need to be soldered or crimped to one another - the auto has a fail-safe that doesnt allow the car to be started in any other place then neutral and park - connecting these 2 wires disables this. the next ones are the neutral and reverse switches. these are 3 wires that contain a ground wire. they are colour coded to make it simpler. green = reverse white = neutral black = ground so to recap, in order from the furthest front sensor to rear on the manual gearbox, you are doing the following; - speedo connects straight on - neutral = connect to white wire - reverse = connect to green wire - ground = ground the black wire i'll be updating this with pics if i go ahead and do it myself. will keep this thread updated as much as i can. cheers, joe

behind the cat is crap mate. put it behind the muffler.

as title says. it needs to be in sydney.

hey mate ive got a set on the rail. do you need the rail or just the injectors? send me a PM

as title says, very good condition airbox with snorkel, has a new filter. reply here or PM. cheers, joe

vl turbo obviously lol

My intercooler piping is off a vl so I'd say it will work

Yep

igniter pack