SECURITY

yes and yes

carsales worked twice for me. you just need to be patient.

all pm's replied.

new pics are up

you can get away with using a blade to get the layer of crap off the block and head surface. sand the block back with some sand paper (coarse-ish wet and dry will be fine). next thing would be to check the flatness of your head with a straight edge. if it comes out straight you can just sand it back with some coarse wet and dry. get yourself some metho and clean both surfaces with a clean rag before putting the head gasket on. if the head doesnt come out flat, take it to a machine shop and they'll charge you around $50 for it, its worth it if you're bothered to wait a few days.. this is what my head looks like after the machining:

Blk33 has written up an installation guide. what he's done is put a weather sheild which stops air passing through the oil cooler. have a read. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=79130&hl=

my mate got pulled over by a copper in a van with red p plates around parra. it was pretty trippy.

i'll be posting up clearer pics in the morning mate.

im open to reasonable offers.

i've got a few parts up for sale. -used RB26 pistons x6 $30 each or all 6 for $150. -standard r33 water pump $20 -RB25 block, BARE, good for rebuild, bores are excellent $100 -2 sets of RB25 standard rods $80 each set -R33 strut brace SOLD -standard RB25 auto transmission oil cooler (small damage but working 100%) $30 -standard r33 intercooler $20 -damaged fibreglass front bar for s1 r33, unpainted. easily fixed (already modified for fmic) $200 all items are used. buyer pays for postage. contact me on: email: [email protected] number: 0422 299 414 or reply here or pm.

yeah that makes sense. well i guess with the kind of pressure the trans and engine oil will see it should be fine.

i've started on this personal weight loss thingo myself. i just try eat healthy and go on a bike ride for an hr every day. actually going into weight watchers would make me feel like a mad heffa. but it looks like you're getting good results. go hard son.

i'm a P plater too. yeah i guess people will start making us look like dicks.. how about we just put trolley poles in our cars?

i reckon we should start a whole "sau'ers against hoons thingo". where we report f**kers who hoon to the media and hopefully sau will get some recognition/media coverage for doing this (which in turn will inform that not all skyliners are dumb asses. oh.... and let us off defects when they see the sau stickers on our cars )

why?

it'll be a waste of a tune if you tune it twice, or do you mean you'll get the stock ecu remapped when you get the 33 turbo? btw, look into getting a vg30det turbo which is the single turbo 300zx motor which ran a t3. its slightly bigger than a t28 which is the r33 turbo. you'll probably just need a new dump pipe.

get a buffer. head to a panel beater and ask him to burrow his buffer for $20 or something. use some of that scratch remover and it should come out.

get the safc when you get the 33 turbo then tune it. standard computer should be fine though. if you want to be sure, get it dyno'd and they'll check your a/f's.

i found out that transmission oil pressure will hit figures of around 40-70psi. install #1 will be fine

sorry to hear about your car dude. i hope it turns up. the thing about car thefts is that the crim doing the stealing rarely ever steals out of his own area, thats why most stolen cars dont turn up as people are looking in the wrong places. if it turns up i doubt it will be in the same area. i'll definately keep an eye out for it.

yeah im sure the engine oil will be fine with any of these set ups. its the trans oil im worried about. im not sure what kind of psi is in the system.

its not really an "omg omg i better not to this wrong" kind of thing. i just wanted your views. the way i see it is if im going to build a performance car, i might as well have things set up by taking advantage of every aspect possible. plus i think it would matter in terms of utilising the entire core.. let me explain it properly by a pic. this is what i mean when i say utilise the whole core, i want the oil to spread evenly, and in turn cool better. this is how i think they would work, im not a mechanic but its just how it works in my head. #1 seems to be the better choice as its utilising the whole core as the oil will spreak evenly #2 has the whole gravity thing working for it, so i guess thats ok. #3 has gravity working against it so it wont really utilise the whole core, mainly just the bottom half of it or so. i think ive got a point.. im not being padantic... not entirely anyway what do you guys think?

why is it set up as 3? is there any specific reason or is this just what fit best?

i might get a muffler with a flange on it so i can swap over a legal one if i ever get done.

nah it wasnt here when i clicked on it. i had already picked it up at 1:30