SECURITY

its not the actual gauge. its the oil pressure switch. get it changed soon or go get an aftermarket oil pressure gauge which comes with its own oil pressure sender which replaces the standard one. this is a common problem with 32's.

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i'll give you $80 for the condensor.

they're pretty much all universal. i'd recommend buying new hoses anyway as they give you something which looks like garden hose in most kits which is a bit of a joke. upgrade to some fuel line hoses which are big enough. i think around 2m of hose (to make sure you've got enough) in 12-15mm dia. would be fine. if the hose doesnt go on then boil some water and melt the tip of the hose and then quickly put it onto the connection. make sure you use some clamps to keep them down. your real problem will be finding a good mounting spot.. for that i'd recommend a search

while its in the negatives its reading vacuum, not boost. anything past 0 is boost. mmHg stands for millimeters of mercury. the standard gauge shows the units divided by 100, so the +7 and -7 are really +700 and -700 mmHg. to convert into PSI, multiply your mmHg reading by 0.0193.

faulty gauge. go back and exchange it.

indicator stalk sorted. anyone have a condensor?

if its been machined, wouldnt that make it non-standard? what specs have they been machined to? and will the 480cc injectors fit an rb25det, are they top or side feed?

how much for the crankshaft? is it standard size?

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pm sent. anyone else?

anyone have either of these?

if you managed to flip a 2 tonne car i dont think you'll be getting out of it.

last price drop... $250 + postage.

heres a pic of the sender.... and heres where it should be.. just to the right of the opening of the fuel tank thingo in the boot. if you're getting a wrong fuel level reading then it usually means the sender is floating around in your fuel tank (happened to me, thats why ive got the pics ). just clip it back onto its bracket and you're right to go.

is the GT block a 3L? i had my heart set on an rb30.. more DIY capabilities.

whatever it costs to have an unbreakable motor... im willing to spend around the 25-30k mark including the turbo. it wont be a straight up 2 week build.. ill be building it over time as its autumn and my money tree is losing all its leaves

when i said building a rb30/26, i meant im going to completely rebuild it... i.e. rods, pistons, cams etc. im just looking for some kind of setup i can use to take advantage of the motor as much as i can.

great info there discopotato. ill probably go with your suggestion and try build up some cubes. is there an rb30 stroker kit?

i want to try something different. i want the pro's and cons of a staged setup before i make a final decision.

we're always hiring casual labourers what can she bench?

after i get my car running ill be starting an rb30/26 project. on that motor i want to run a pretty large turbo (havent decided which yet), and i was thinking of a staged turbo setup with something smaller to build up exhaust flow and give me some low-mid power before the larger one spools, which in turn will make it start spooling earlier. im no mechanical genius so im coming to you guys for some guidence on how i could make this work as im not the type of guy who would walk into a workshop and say "i want this, that, those" and flop $30k on the table. most of the work will be done by myself so its important that i understand how it all works. the motor is going to be used for drags. i know i could use nitrus but i'd rather something different. i'd appreciate your thoughts on running this kind of setup too. thanks guys.

would an apexi ECV be helpful for this? is there any way to keep it closed at a higher rpm?

im after a working, strong engine crane, and an engine stand that can support an rb25det. thanks, joe

yeah mate still for sale.. ill post pics up tomorrow.