SECURITY

R33 GTST Auto ET: 14.003 (on 5cyl) MPH: 9x.xx??? (lost time slip) Fuel: BP Ultimate Tyres: shitty 205's Boost: 16+psi (bleed valve shit itself) Poweer: 190rwkw bleed valve shit itself, i melted a piston at the start line when i started blowing smoke while doing a burnout before the race... but i didnt notice till 3/4 track which is when i started easing off. new timeslip in a few weeks when my car is fixed and run in

thats for the pull start. im too lazy to take the cover off every time i need to start it so i cut that out.

bad luck stan. hope it gets sorted champ. im in.

bleed valves are the devil!

in sydney theres a place called Metal King in Chipping Norton. google it, im sure you'll find him.

dammit! i bought new rings off them for my rebuild and had to pay retail... i almost cringe just saying the word RETAIL!

http://srandy.com:82/forum/index.php thats where we chat reguarding rc's and shit now

try some PVC piping.. it goes heaps better

yeah around the 1200 mark i think.

it wont be quick.. maybe if he got some drag radials or something.. those things are hella light. i used to drive one and ever since i sold it ive been promising myself to make one a project track car.

theyre pretty cool.. ive got a nitro one too.. the car: it drifting: its fun stuff.

he didnt build a h22a... he rebuilt the motor of the standard 89 preludes. the b20a.

power to the bloke for doing something original.. but he would've gotten more out of putting an type r motor into his car and starting from there. the only reason i did this was to give him a taste of his own medicine.. he put a poll up at once stage asking how UGLY another members car is.

haha hes the biggest wanker ive ever seen on any forum.

just become members you lazy bastards

try the new link.. well a guy from there has rebuild his motor with forgies and billet rods. around 1yr later and hes pulling 145kw on 11psi and thinks its a monster, so does the rest of the forum.

just thought you guys might like some fun reading. this guy has spent a shitload of money on rebuilding his motor and got 145kw out of it on 11psi and is hoping for 200+. im a member of preludesaustralia as i used to drive a 3rd generation prelude before my skyline. but yeah.. have fun http://www.preludeaustralia.com/forums/ind...showtopic=13657

1979 mercedes benz 280SEL. biggest piece of shit on the road.. but it did good burnouts for something that felt like it weighed 2tonnes.

things like wheels, exhaust, pod, suspension can all be engineered. it doesnt cost much. the cheapest ive been quoted was $250 from a friend of a friend. max you'd pay is 300-400. my car sits around 50-60mm off the ground, its bright yellow, and its got a 3" turbo back feeding into a 5" tip. i havent been pulled over since i took my wheels off (in my sig). so it all depends on how you present the car. it scores big points with the popo. we really need an engineer that does engineering for sau members. now THAT is a damn good idea.

thats exactly the type of reply i was looking for. cheers stav.

ive read a few build ups where theyve used the n1 oil pump on rb25's without making any modifications to it. should be right.

just need to know if its a straight swap guys.

i posted this in general maintenance but didnt get a response, so i thought i'd try in here. ive bought an n1 oil pump for my rebuild and ive been told by justjap that theyre a direct fit for rb25det. ive also heard from other sources that they arent a direct fit and need to be modified somehow, he said the actual pump needs to be modified, not the crank collar (which is what is needed for the rb30 I THINK). whats the story with them? do they or dont they need to be modified?

it could slip off again.. and because its looser it will start wearing eariler due to the increase in movement, then stretch some more, then squeel some more. it'll eventually stop gripping then you'll be back to where you started.

if it was just thin oil i was worried about i wouldnt have written this thread. anyways, the oil pump feels really notchy and we've almost got it apart (those screws are tight buggers). new bearings are going in as my old ones have worn down to the brass. and ive already put an n1 pump on there. and for the people who search this topic later on, you're meant to take the pump apart and check for score marks on it. it is also meant to be turning smoothly on the bearing. and mine most definately isnt.