SECURITY

pretty much what merlinthehappypig said, plus - timing belt tensioner and idler (take them off and check if they dont turn smoothly, if not then replace) - check oil pressure (dont trust the factory gauge!!) - water pump and thermostat

i got my tensioner for $94 from coventry auto (mates rates) part number is TBT1810. same price for my idler, part number is TBT1816. im pretty sure theres a coventry auto in WA. retail on these parts are $172 each.

ive bought an n1 oil pump for my rebuild and ive been told by justjap that theyre a direct fit for rb25det. ive also heard from other sources that they arent a direct fit and need to be modified somehow, he said the actual pump needs to be modified, not the crank collar (which is what is needed for the rb30 I THINK). whats the story with them? do they or dont they need to be modified?

bump

bump

not needed anymore. bought an n1.

since when did forum policy stop anyone? nice car mate.

get a 2nd hand tyre for $50 from anywhere to get you going.

im in construction, i look after the family building company, and when ive got a day off (im still at uni studying construction management) i trade shares on the interweb.

oh that sucks. sorry mate, i forgot about the front driveshafts. i thought it'd be the same as gtst for some reason.

you dont need to remove the engine to change the oil pump. you just need to take your radiator/condensor/fmic/front bar off as they tend to need a hydraulic puller to get their balancers off. after thats off its a matter of removing your timing belt gear, dropping your sump, replacing the oil pump and putting it back together. it would take a few hrs at the most to get it all done with the right tools. it took me just over an hour to get my oil pump off (i dont have a front bar on my car), and that included taking my radiator and condensor out and dropping the sump.

nice vid, awesome shots in there... the end of the movie sounds like someone is torturing a goat though.

do you blame them? im not talking on behalf of anyone but look at it from their point of view.... they found out your turbo was hi-flowed and rubbed your name out, its not their responsibility to run after you if your name was rubbed out. it would've happened to the next guy so just get over it.

yeah rukus.. what do you think this is? some kind of thread where you can post replies or something? get a clue mate!

i want a friggen trophy for reading through this thread. my auto > elbee's 205kw monster. gimme a damn prize!

bump

im suprised noone has mentioned the oil pump. it is major, but it happens alot and is a top cause for rebuilds on these things. ive seen more oil pumps on r32 gtr's go than tyres do on a commo at summernats.

i ripped mine off.. there should be some brackets that are holding it in. sadly i had to use a bit of force to get it off, im not sure if there is another way. it didnt do any damage to my car though.

i saw an ad in hot4s or something that supply and install and give an engineers certificate.

thats some shitty shit. goodluck with it mate.

get hydraulics. it isnt THAT much more expensive and they come with an engineers certificate. handling would be improved wouldnt it? more weight

rbfire is right. but you dont need to relocate your washer bottle. line up the piping first untill you're 100% sure you know where you're meant to cut a hole. get a 3" hole saw and go for gold. you'll need to cut a chunk out of your bar support to fit the fmic too. the bottom brackets fit from the bolts that hold up the plastic shit under the motor. the pipe on the left of the fmic in the pic goes from the fmic, in through the hole you have to drill under your washer bottle. the pipe ontop of the fmic in the pic goes from the last pipe i mentioned to your crossover pipe (the one with your bov on it). the pipe to the right of the fmic in the pic goes from the fmic to the stock pipe that leads from your turbo. you'll figure it out.

thats the exact reason why you need high tensile bolts. im sure you can use that tool that gets stripped bolt heads off (i cant remember the name, ive gone completely blank). its the tool where you drill right in the middle of the thread then tap this little piece that looks like a drill bit, then unscrew as normal. saves you from pulling your front bar off i'd think.

the lower timing belt gear wasnt that bad. i used a long screw driver and levered it off evenly (making sure it lined up with the half moon thingos). the only reason i did that was because my oil pump was screwed, i didnt really care about damaging it. i didnt put much pressure on it but there is still a chance of damaging it doing it that way.

go to supercheap or wherever they sell car parts and get a harmonic balancer puller. on my car i ive got 2 holes to fit 10mm bolts, im not sure if its the same with the 32gtr. if its the same, get 2 high tensile 10mm bolts and put some washers on them so they dont fall through. tighten the 10mm bolts onto your balancer through the balancer puller, then start to tighten the balancer puller bolt. it should come off pretty easily.