SECURITY

spotted a white 33 with RUSSIA plates near stanmore maccas last night. and a silver 4 door r34 turning onto the m4 from silverwater rd.

i mounted the base of the stand with DS tape to the bottom of the little tray thingo. works well.

i put mine on the little shelf thingo, but now the deck sits under the shelf thingo.. ill take a close up pic later.

believe it or not when i went to get my car sprayed there was a sau member getting his series 2 sprayed the same colour at the same time!

ive been weaiting so frikken long for you to start making these again. powder coating would be better wouldnt it?

and the conrod bearings are easy peasy to change. just so you guys know, the rb25 and rb26 conrod bearings are exactly the same so gtr rods are definately a better alternative if you're thinking about doing it. gtr rods are alot beefier than rb25 rods.

its running!! the motor was raised around 1.5inches to give us clearance for the sump etc. we then pulled the main bearings out by turning over the crank while pushing the bearing out with a small flat head, then kept turning it while holding onto the bearing which then came out completely. it was alot easier than pulling the crank out, alot quicker too. my brother in law will be at the cruise ill be organising once my cars run in so if anyones got any questions just ask him, hes a top bloke and an excellent mechanic.

morning bahahhahaha

looks the goods bro. thats a sexy colour too. but it looks like it needs to be dropped another 2 inches

you get what you pay for in most cases. look for one with low k's and get an nrma inspection, or better yet take a potential to a workshop so they can get it up on a hoist and look at it properly. a few things to look at would be the compressor wheel. take off the intake and have a feel of it, jiggle it around to see for any shaft play, there should be very minimal play, around .5mm at the most.

ive got a water pump too, used, im in syd. it was working 100% while it was on my car.

all we did was hone the bores, we checked the clearances with a dial gauge (i think its called). the crank and old bearings didnt have any ware on it so we just threw in some standard bearings. most of the questions my brother in law has answers for, he tried to explain them to me but i dont really get into the fine details of it all, hes the master mechanic.

i could get 4 so i replaced 4, the other two didnt need replacing. they were 2nd hand in top condition. i got the head gasket off someone who had is spare from a vrs kit. i forgot to add that to the list, ill do that now. the assembly lube is a really light mix, its more than likley to be ignited within a few cycles, we did use them on the bearings but my brother in law said it was fine to use on the rings, we only used a light layer.

the oil im using is a 15-40 (synthetic fortified). wont i stuff something up if i give it from the start?

it says on the engine manual and on the instruction thingo for the rings to lube the pistons up on installation. reason being that it isnt lubed from the get go, so assembly grease is needed. shouldnt do much harm, most of it should be passed through the exhaust during combustion anyway. ripping the dash out wasnt as bad, i had it all done in 2.5hrs, in and out. i just disconnected the little motor that opens and closes the passage to the passenger, and left it open. this is what the little box looks like, i took it apart and found the teeth on the gears are all shorn off: nah im waiting to get onto a track to find out if i want to go for a manual conversion or not. the auto is doing me really well atm anyway. these were the costs: my mate works for a parts place so i got most of the parts for cost price. rings from nissan - $240 big end bearings - $62.50 main bearings - $60.01 timing belt tensioner - $94.00 " " idler - $94.00 water pump - $40 thermostat - $31 honer - $85 oil (fuchs semi sinthetic) - $20 nulon coolant - $30 4 pistons - $100 head gasket (spare off a vrs kit off a member) - $50 total $906.51 i threw in gtr rods too, i had them laying around. and mona, you'll be the first person to know!

most places will tell you around 400-500 to do the whole car, i know a guy who does them for 250. his name is John, his number is 0412 253 973

nah mate just standard pistons with new rings. and thank you sam for refering me to chris every time i asked you a question.

thanks guys. i want to organise a saturday day/arvo cruise then the following wednesday hit wsid.

this is whats been keeping me sane these last couple of months... my nitro 4wd 2spd drift rexie (bla), i know its not perfect.. but r33 shells are hard to come across.

as some of you guys know im almost finished with my rebuild and now i need some advice on running my motor in. so far ive got the right oil (and know to change it after 500lk's and again at 1000), i know not to pass the 3000rpm mark for 1000k's and thats pretty much it. does anyone have any other tips for me as ive done all the work myself and dont have any kind of warranty on the rebuild... i really dont want to f**k anything up. here are some pics ive taken: the aftermath of a night at the drags and a dodgy bleed valve... the bores before the honing... after... specialist tools needed.... (notice i held the corona IN FRONT of the honer) pistons all in... (the red shit is assembly grease for all who are wondering) this is where im at now... should be all done before this weekend... i took the chance to clean my turbo up and fit a split dump... and fix that friggen clicking noise in my aircon when i start the car up... all up it was a good experience. if you want to learn a shit load about your motor then i strongly suggest you fry a piston ASAP..... not really, but it is a really good way to learn i couldnt have done it without my brother in laws help who is a licensed mechanic and will be more than happy to help anyone with a problem theyve got (PM me if anyone would like to contact him) he is a really honest guy and wouldnt let me cut any corners and also tried to teach me what every part did as we were taking it apart and putting it back together. also Craved (chris) for putting up with a shitload of my questions, BU5TER (brett) for putting up with more of my questions, Slide (aaron) again with the questions, and Moanie (mona) for trying to find me a clamp that night it all turned to shit ) i made up a word file with most of the torque settings needed to work on an rb25det from start to finish so PM me and ill send away as i wouldnt have a clue on how to link it. after its all run in who is up for a cruise through the nasho or something? ive never been and ive missed out on alot of cruises because of my freakin motor.

i didnt take any off, i just used 2 gaskets.

they dont impound your car for neg driving. only for street racing and doing burnouts and shit.

john west... the best i used hitman for my safc tune, he does haltech there too. i was very happy with the power he got out of my car. hi 5 for hitman.

when im about to leave, before i get ready i go out to my car, turn it on then take the key out so the turbo timer takes over then set it to 4-5min, lock the car then go and get ready. by the time im back the car is reasonably warm and is at a decent temperature for me to drive off with my mind at ease.

ebc