SECURITY

anyone know where i can get some thin-walled sockets? preferably a 17mm?

the onyl EPA places are penrith and botany. these two places run the IM240 tests which test emissions. the place you went to was just to check that your emissions gear was in and in working order (pretty much all of your stock gear is on). they also do a noise test.

im going through this at the moment - ive figured out what works and what doesnt. i did everything except the fmic (because ive got a front facing plenum) im waiting to see if they send me a defective vehicle notice. - my exhaust passed with 84db (standard exhaust with restrictors through it) - must be a non-hiflow cat - standard airbox must be in place - carbon canister must be connected and functioning (mine just looks like it is) - FPR must be standard - ECU must be standard (but they hardly ever check) - turbo must be standard (mine isnt but i put the standard heat-sheild over it) - you can just block off the BOV, as long as it doesnt vent to atmosphere you will pass. you can even have a catch can as long as it doesnt vent to atmosphere. the DECC guys dont look at anything other than things that will effect emissions.

i guarantee you've got more air leaking out of your intercooler/inlet at the moment then that intercooler has on its own. it doesnt look like its leaking any air, its just got some bent tubes.

ive got some bilsteins on eibach springs, theyre only height adjustable. bought for $590 or so off the group buy + $200 springs. really good all-rounder setup. selling for $350.

i passed my noise test and everything else except the FMIC. im going to wait for the DECC to tell me if i have to take it to the IM240 test. id actually rather do that than stick the standard gear on. and FYI steel wool in the cat does nothing. i made a flange shaped restrictor and drilled holes into it and wedged it into the flange on the rear muffler, THEN shoved steel wool into it.

a/c has nothing to do with it mate. heater core is completely separate, read my edited post.

thats a bit of a mission to fix. you can get away with it without taking he dash off - but its a pain in the ass. for now just disconnect the two hoses that go into the dash from the engine bay through the firewall. theyre on the turbo side. get a plastic/metal hose of suitable diameter and have those two pipes running into each other. that will keep you going for now. EDIT: to answer your questions, its a common-ish problem. the heater itself has two fittings that are screwed to it by 4 philips head screws - the seal between the fittings and heater core fails and causes the leak. i've tried re-sealing one with silicone but it didnt work. maybe try a gasket on yours if you choose to repair it.

and how do they know you have an iphone? i call BS

3-4 months ago he flushed it and had no problems since - im pretty sure its bled. check your thermostat. boil water and pour it into a container big enough to hold a thermostat. throw the thermostat into it then watch if it opens up. it should open up around 3-4mm. if it doesnt then its shagged. you dont need to take the radiator out to flush it, just disconnect the hoses and run water through it. i read that you flushed your radiator, but did you flush your engine? you can do it 2 ways; 1. disconnect the radiator hoses that connect to the radiator. run a high pressure water through the top hose for around 30sec. then run water through the bottom hose for 30 sec. its important you do it both ways. personally, i like to disconnect the heater hoses and flush that separately. 2. drain the water (little plug on the LHS of radiator), fill it up with water again, run the engine with a bit of revs for around 20sec (keep an eye on temps), then flush again. keep doing this till the water comes out clean.

ive got a set of these in my car. perfect for track work too. these retail for almost $2,000 brand new! good luck with the sale mate.

Where do I get a new one from?

Thanks for your replies guys. I'm still after a standard cat. Can anyone help me out?

ill sms you

awesome! i owe you one!

awesome. thanks mate! pm sent. if anyone has the standard intercooler pipe (hot pipe) that comes off the turbo that would be great too!

okay ive got the boost controller, intake and airbox sorted. i just need a compliance cat and a quiet exhaust. does anyone have the muffler off a standard exhaust and/or a compliance cat i can buy/burrow?

Weight has nothing to do with power. You will have better acceleration because there is less weight to move - that's it. There is a car club in the USA that got a standard Nissan sentra and started from standard weight and pulled a 16sec 1/4 mile pass. Then completely stripped the panels so it only had the engine, floor pan and running gear and pulled a 12sec pass.

nobody likes a smartarse mate. lol.

if i get through this, thats the next thing i'll be doing. i just need to get all of my info right, like if i can use any kind of enclosure for my airbox, how to quieten down my exhaust without adding too much weight etc etc.

Fixed

send in certified copies of your business registration as well as mechanic's license.

intake pipe and boost controller sorted.

hey guys, im after the following: standard cat-back exhaust, preferably with the cat. standard cat, airbox bracket + snorkel, boost controller, intake pipe cheers, joe

yeah i might give him a ring if i fail the IM240 test with my home-job tune. yeah thats the worst case scenario, i plan on getting all the parts swapped over in a week - i'll see if i can make it to the IM240 test in time before my inspection date. from what i gathered, as long as you can prove that you pass the IM240 test and pass the DECC noise test then you should be fine - just keep the car the way it was at the IM240 test till you get a response from the DECC. my only concern after all of this is to get all of my aftermarket gear engineered - i dont want to go through this again. sucky thing is, the car is worth jack all.