SECURITY

Tripple post

The standard oil and water lines are very flexible, I've bent mine out into a U shape to carry my compressor hose hanging in the garage

and what height does this allow you to work at? the highest platforms i've been on have been around 6m for a scaffold on my projects, surely i dont need it for that??

any idea if this counts towards builders' license points?

these days i buy cars based on how they run rather than km on the dash. the closer to 170psi compression and lower % leakdown is relative to the amount id pay. obviously you look for rust and excessive welding around the struts and in the boot as well as amount of play the suspension has. also the super helpful kick of the tires helps to check if the steering is loose.

try working on a cg8 or any other boxer engine. they're super fun to work with on the first go my opinion is going rb30. there is a guide you can follow, plenty of threads you can read and tonnes of support for it. in-tune performance in penshurst quoted me for my rb30: check journals + supply big end and main bearings: $160 balance crank/rods/pistons: $200 (i think) crank itself is $60. supply and fit crank collar for larger drive on DET oil pump: $350 get them to do all the checks on the crank (like whip). there wouldnt be any other place id take my balancing and machining to, these guys have a great reputation and know RB's. personally i'd buy a RIPS bottom end (cheap) and learn to put together a head, its much harder - if you can do a head you can do an RB bottom end - no worries. if you've got time, do both. slap it together and you've got a monster of an engine. ive got a pdf of the r33/32/gtst/gtr workshop manual. pm me if you'd like it.

they do this to rb30 oil pumps. its a common "fix" for the lower oil pressures the RB30E pumps produce at higher RPM when putting a DOHC head on an rb30 compared to DET pumps (for getting away with using a RB30E pump rather than buying a DET pump)

Ofcorse he doesnt, Barbarian. Didnt you know that a moderator's opinion is law around here? So where is your review? What clubs did you hit?

ideally you'd want both nipples the same size. just drill and tap some new ones and run one inlet and the other as an outlet going to your intake.

the standard return pipe going from the cam covers to the intake as well as the one between the cam covers have restrictors in them. the restrictors in both from memory looks to be around 8mm so dont be too worried about the size of your hoses, as long as theyre bigger than 12mm they should be fine but keep in mind that you want the velocity inside the catch can as low as possible so if you can fit the hoses to be the same size as the outlet that would help. unless you're running a bigger turbo, have lower than normal compression or have a bit of an oil problem i'd be going with a single hose servicing both by just running one hose from the exhaust side cam cover.

2nd hand oil pumps have to be opened up and inspected regardless. you'd be able to tell if it was too worn to use if you did this on a 2nd hand pump. could save yourself a few hundred too.

the standard has dropped in a big way at the forum. dessert at the cheesecake place there is awesome. walk down the big flight of stairs and its directly on your right.

why dont you just do what i suggested? when you say 'tune', you do realise that you are running a standard computer, right? it cannot be 'tuned'. rather, you have an oxygen sensor which may be/probably is shagged and would be worth replacing if you're using alot of fuel bla bla etc etc. a tune requires a new computer (approx 1.6-1.8k then another $600-900 to tune) also doing a service would have been the first thing i would've done after putting the turbo back in. just do the damn ecu reset and see what happens.

my favourite one was when they were looking for a car their client could drift. after posting on some forum a whole bunch of ricers rocked up. 2 of them ended up smashing into each other while showing off.

take it for a hard drive after doing what i told you to do.

there are a few ways i can think of to make someone who breaks into your house who you've beat to shit have no leg to stand on in court (i made a pun). you simply call self defense. the knife/crowbar/baseball bat/screw driver/spoon that is now embed in his scull used to be in the thief's hands, you acted on impulse and the burst of adrenaline caused you to do ninja styles, grab the weapon and plant him one in the face. if your defense is something like 'i caught him and started laying into him' then you're screwed. whereas if its something like 'he came at me with a knife/crowbar/baseball bat/screw driver/spoon and while defending myself it ended up in his face' then you're pretty much sweet if you can STICK TO YOUR STORY. its your word against his and at the end of the day he is just a thief.

if you're going out during the week, wednesday nights go off till midnight.

sapphire has a lougey atmosphere, its pretty easy to get in but its shit. youve got heaps of choices in kings cross so get a cab to drop you off there and walk around, dont forget the side streets either. get drunk before you get there and you should have a pretty good night.

i think he means full boost. check for a vacuum leak somewhere in the cooler/inlet piping. also check the AAC valve guide in the DIY for the stalling issue, also clean your AFM. the tune should be running back to normal now but try 'refreshing' the ECU; disconnect the -ve terminal of the battery and pump your brakes for a good min or 2 till you're sure the car is completely drained of power. reconnect the terminal then take the car for a 'spirited' drive. if that doesnt fix it then post up some more details of what its doing.

thanks mate, i ended up getting an engine crane. ill do the swap on sunday or something.

take it for a nice hard drive and it goes away pretty quickly

i win. what do i get?

that is just oil from touching the turbo during the swap burning off the turbo housing. completely normal, should go away after 20mins or so after the car gets to operating temp.

Do you realise how many cars come with mods from jap? I know guys who have stripped down motors and found forgies and cams. Also finding aftermarket turbos isn't uncommon either.

that sensor looks like an air temp sensor so im guessing that there is an aftermarket ECU inside the standard ecu housing. probably something like a link g4 or a vipec. check if there is a USB cable coming out of the ECU.