SECURITY

ive got no time mate. if i had an engine crane it would still be weeks before i could do it myself.

hey guys, looking for someone to do an engine swap. ive got everything ready to go. main loom is disconnected and the auxiliary loom is off and connected to the new motor - i just dont have an engine crane and time to get the swap done. the new motor is complete with plenum and turbo. the radiator is also removed from the car. belts and power steering pump need to be swapped but i will be doing that once the new motor is in. does anyone know someone who can do the swap for me? cheers, joe

check under the plenum for water hoses that have hardened. sub 100,000km water hoses will still be flexible and a bit soft. anything older generally start to harden.

let me know if you want pics of a motor with the lines fitted. ive got one complete with turbo and lines installed sitting on my engine stand.

read the instructions and look at the pics carefully mate. the 'nipple' is from the fuel rail that you had to trim. you clamp the 'nipple' (sawn off piece of fuel rail that you cut up earlier) and clamp it to the water hose. what kind of material is the pipe? if you're talking about the one going around the back of the head, its the water feed to the turbo. otherwise, take some pics and we'll be able to identify it for you.

the only correct way to answer would be "i was ripping a hole in the crotch of my girl's pantyhose before sexytime one night and i noticed it would be strong enough to use in a catch can". you = fail.

you know how i know you're gay? you say stuff like 'lower denier stocking'. lol. baffled catch can is definitely the go. as long as you have air moving direction in your catch can i.e. doesnt have a direct path to the outlet, you will catch oil more effectively.

p.s. be careful of the china copies guys, a mate of mine got one of these and i quickly noticed that the furthest front water galley in the plenum was non existent. we has to re-drill and de-burr it out. he was about to install it without checking so definitely get your gasket and make sure everything is where it should be.

by 'two parts together' do you mean the plenum and runners? you need to get under the car and use a ratchet with a LONG 3/8" extension (because a 1/2" is too big/thick), what i did was feed 3 long extensions up one at a time because it was a little tight under the car.

thats a shit go mate. thats why i always jiggle the gear knob to make sure its not in gear before i start any car. you may be in luck if you ring up a wrecker, half cuts are sold without doors so i cant imagine it being hard to find some if you did some ringing around.

still got to organise the engineer to come look at it.

because im selling the car, keeping the f**ked motor and still suing the engine builder my next car will probably be something like an s15 which ill throw the rb30 into with a 26 head which is why i'll still work on it, but it wont be a priority. ive already bought the motor. i've almost stripped all the accessories off the old one and transferred it to the new.

check for cracks in your intercooler/silicon hoses. best way to do this would be to block off the intake and pressurise one of your vacuum hoses on the intercooler piping. if you dont have a compressor then get some soapy water and spray it on all of the silicon hoses and look out for little bubbles.

and ACL sell them for around $60

looks like ill be installing a standard motor for now and slowing down on the rb30 for a while. i'll still be working on it but at a slower pace

i wanted an ARP stud set, might as well go the bolts.

update time took my stock rods and pistons apart and put on the cast ones i had here. looks sexy as...

from the thread... this guy knows his shit.

= angular change. dont forget the engine mounts were modified too.

ive been looking on the calaisturbo forum and it looks like the rb30et and rb30e Series 2 pumps are fine when doing 25 head conversions as long as there is no wear inside the pump (involves taking it apart and putting it back together) they also suggest shimming up the spring @ the pressure relief valve end.

Is that with any modifications Paul? and is that the rb30e or rb30et pump? and if i was to use the rb30e oil pump what restrictor setup should i go for if i was going to do the internal oil feed to VCT?

raising the gearbox mounts would have the rear of the engine heaps higher than it is now, dont forget the extra height of the rb30 AND the rear of the motor is sitting at around the same height as an rb26. plus the front of the motor is a little bit higher than a stock rb26 and is tilted back slightly.

nice one! definitely adding this to the things to do list. thanks mate.

Can you give me a little info on how to go about the internal feed to the head?

if ive got my motor build by then ill be in.