SECURITY

hey guys, im a bit confused on whether or not to use the rb30e pump as well as which oil feed restrictors to go for. ive gotten a few different opinions and have gotten that the rb30e oil pump is ok as long as i keep it under 7000rpm? and also the rb25det head should use 1.5mm restrictors x2 on the block. not blocking one off and 1.5 on the other as the oil control guide says. can anyone confirm? ive read a shitload of threads and didnt come up with a definite answer.

if youve got a clothes steamer or one of those general house cleaner steamer thingo's that usually works. if you started with using the steamer you wouldnt have had the glue problem, the tints would've come off without the glue staying on the glass. so use the steamer and a razor.

when the starter isnt engaged it should be retracted. check that it 'pops out' when the power engages it, if it doesnt then look at getting it replaced.

seeing as though the rear of the motor sits at pretty much the same height as an rb26 and the front is a little higher im going to go with gearbox crossmember/mount being lowered as well as engine mounts.

check that the starter motor is aligned properly. measure the distance from the mounting points to the flywheel and see if it isnt over/under shooting it. you may need to space it out. do you have the backing plate in?

theyre definitely on the shopping list.

ok a little update: i drilled and tapped the new idler location, like r33 racer said its a 8.5mm drill bit and a M10x1.5 tap. tested and worked perfect. i drilled JUST into the water galley but the guide says if you seal it it'll be fine, you wont get the whole thread in if you dont go that deep anyway... picture time:

thanks mate

stem seals would cause you to blow smoke under deceleration as well as off idle. it might be something like worn valve guides, does the car have a lumpy idle or irratic vacuum?

i just centre punched the new location for the idler. ill rip the harmonic balancer off and get the old tensioner stud off tomorrow so i can get the right size studs and drill bit... might as well replace both.

will do. im taking photos as i go. i might get onto that tomorrow actually.

its officially started. ive stripped it down, just need to start ordering parts. im still a bit iffy about using the stock rb30 oil pump.

im pretty keen to get to this, as soon as the new engine is in and running (reliably) ill be good to go.

theyre a pain in the ass without a decent high powered air tool set i've found. the block is still in the ute so i might just drive it over to a workshop. i wont keep it below 6500 because this entire time ive had an rb30 i havent been able to enjoy it properly since the motor kept failing on me. im going to build this one with at least the minimum covered so i can use it for something other than something to swear at.

true, i ordered 2 Tomei ones off ebay just then. now to get the dreaded flywheel bolts off.

im doing the bare minimum on this thing mate. pretty much the things that will worry me in the future, other than that its going straight together with parts ive got laying around.

wouldnt there be a small chance of the water damaging the head gasket if its hitting it directly over time? so thats 1.5mm on each oil feed correct? could i fab these up myself with some cylindrical copper/stainless lengths? what would the OD of it have to be?

to me a slapper is doing the basics to get it running reliably then off you go.

okay so standard rb30 oil pump will do as long as ive limited it to 7000rpm (not bouncing off the limiter ofcorse) so 2x 1.5mm restrictors on both front and rear oil feeds on the block good enough? does everyone do this? i dont really like the idea of water hitting the head gasket front on - sounds like possible trouble that can be avoided. i might just have a mate weld a bit of meat to the water galley then match the head gasket with a die grinder then have it machined flat. everyone agree?

i barely drive my car, my last motor blew and it barely saw 5000rpm lol. I've made a list for parts and things i need to do to the block/head. can someone make sure ive covered the "things to do" list, ill figure out the missing parts as i go lol. Parts: Federal and mogul cast pistons VRS kit Rings Big end/main bearings Crank collar Oil restrictor to head + block read oil gallery Oil pump rb25/26/n1 Timing belt Idler + tensioner Water pump To do before assembly: Weld VCT oil feed in head (or grub screw) Fit 1.5mm oil restrictor + block rear Drill and tap new idler stud + replace studs Grind down protruding water galley lumps for exhaust manifold. Fit crank collar for twin cam oil pump Questions Has anyone actually o-ringed their block? Is it worth doing on a slap? I found this if anyone was interested, DIY o-ring set: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ISK-200-...mp;autoview=sku Do I need to do anything to the water galley on the block seeing as though it spans over the oil feed of the head? I’ve read people using 2x1.5mm restrictors instead of blocking off the rear and using a 1.5mm restrictor in the front. Which is the most commonly used for the rb25det head? Am I missing anything? I’m pretty keen to get my motor on the stand and started this weekend.

i think i may prove you wrong on that lol. ill log all of my expenses so the rb30 standard pumps are ok? or should i go for a twin cam pump setup? i havent decided if im going to use all of the items off my current rb30 (n1 pump, head etc) what should i machine off the block if i wanted to make the standard rb30e pistons make the 9.0:1 CR?

i might just go with the 30e cast pistons ive got here, 8.3:1 isnt too bad considering i want a reliable quick, cheap build.

you can also take the serial number off the gold plate and email mines directly and they will give you the details of the ecu.

The mines ecu is not a bad thing if all you've got are breathing mods and a little more boost than stock. I had a hoflow and never saw any lean spots except on idle which was at 15.7afr.

rb30e.. whatever. just need to know what compression the standard pistons would make with the 25det head.