SECURITY

i think the best you'd get is a car maintenance course - things you'd do in a service + brakes. with some common sense and a bit of research you'll be more than capable of doing these things yourself. either way, the most essential tools you'd need are: - 3/8" rachet set (preferably with a 1/4" adapter + sockets) - pliers. long and short nose - allen key set - spanner set

if you're keen enough you'll find a way. you only need a space of around 1m x 1m for an engine stand. put some planks of wood across the bottom of it and it doubles as a table. when you bag and label all of the nuts, bolts and random pieces of engine you'll be able to store them in a box in your room. same goes for the head. if you dont intend on buying tools then whats the point of you learning all this stuff?

dont bother with a TAFE course mate, most of the guys on here are backyard mechanics who started by reading around several forums, asking the tough (dumb) question and giving it a go themselves. 99% of a time you'll already find the answer to your question by using the search function on here (as well as google). pretty much all mechanics went to TAFE, and pretty much all mechanics are shit. theres a reason why they do 4 days a week at work and 1 at TAFE. to get the experience/confidence/knowledge first hand. my suggestion would be to buy a motor - probably something like an rb30 (because they're really cheap and simple) and fit into a lot of different cars so you could always throw it into something if you ever got into track work. start a build thread, ask whatever you feel you need to get you started but common sense will prevail. a workshop manual will help a lot too (i can help with that).

i think ive posted this up before - its the bill of sale i made up. feel free to use it. BILL OF SALE.doc

160psi across all cylinders? really? is this on a brand new motor? i rarely see compression tests show over 155psi on all cylinders. the best ive seen has at least a 3psi variance between cylinders.

It's 5% rather than 5psi. You've got a difference of 10psi where it should be 7-8psi. Nothing major for the moment, just keep in mind for future tunes to tell them to make it safe. Also make sure you religiously change your oil and filter every 4-5000 and buy the good stuff!.

the important thing is that its no longer in your name - not that he takes the defect notice.

did you make a Bill of Sale? you have 14 days to transfer rego so if anything happens before then i'd assume that the Bill of Sale as well as the signed notice of disposal (on your rego papers) would cover you to prove the dates of the sale.

evrybody should love everybody.

could also be very low on power steering fluid.

the usual things to check would be ignitor pack (its a series 2 so you wouldnt have one of these), CAS and AFM. open the AFM up by carefully removing the rubber seal around the cap with a razor and re-solder all of the connections inside. use gasket maker to re-seal the cap. try swap over a CAS with a known working one, you must keep in mind that timing will be effected so you will need a timing light to get it back to 15deg on idle.

Check the lowest point of your intercooler piping as well as your intake pipe where the breather hoses connect.

There is more than 1 water hose that runs near the firewall. Get under the car and check for leaks. The next thing to check is in the drivers and passengers footwell for water/damp spots. If there is then your heater core is leaking which is behind the dash. As a temporary fix you can run the two pipes coming out of the firewall on the passenger side into each other.

its not hard doing it yourself. if you've got a bit of common sense then you'll be fine. Re: coil packs. if you get lucky and have the coil packs with the copper inside then you can usually get away with cleaning up the surface LIGHTLY with a dremil. this worked really well for ages till i got a set of splitfires. they tend to accumulate a fair bit of crap over time.

which make/model do you think of when i say UTE? SS ute? xr ute? hilux? so why not use the same principal when choosing a n/a car? for me its honda integra/civic type r/s2000. not a skyline. your re-sale will be much much better. when you're ready for a turbo car then go for a skyline. its not worth the $ converting if you cant do it yourself (brakes/rotors, ecu/tune, injectors/pump etc etc). its definitely not a case of just fitting a turbo and off you go.

another temporary solution is to gap your plugs down to 0.8mm or if they're already there 0.65. i ran that for a few months before i bought new coil packs.

figured it out. the ECU wasn't sending 12v to the ECCS relay (pin 16) when the ignition is turned off which keeps a lot of accessories on. it was continually grounded. sent the ECU off to get repaired and now its working great.

the walbro would fit on the bracket better than the bosch. i've had both and the walbro fits better.

that is a good replacement and it is all you will need to replace your fuel pump. dont buy one 2nd hand. do you notice any black smoke out of your exhaust when it happens?

PM Duncan mate, he has gone through the same sort of thing with dodgy fuel.

i drive the same - i just turn the boost down by 5psi across the whole map in summer.

^^ this guy knows. you need to ring up whoever is going to tune your car and find out which ECU they prefer. you also need to tell them your target HP as well as the intended use of the car. that said, i havent gone to a tuner who didnt like the vi-pec ecu. there is lots and lots of online support for them and R&D is always continuing. its great for beginners as the help file is VERY informative, the software is free and is continually being updated as the developers find better ways to run the ECU.

on the actual flap there is a piece of metal that catches on the latch. just push it away from the latch to get you by.

your fuel pump could possibly be on its way out..

try spraying some WD40 between the pulley and the belt and see if that makes it go away. if it does then you need to tighten whichever belt is loose.