SECURITY

at the end of the day, who fucking cares?

i sure do. use the standard 12v as your +ve terminal and see if it shuts off instantly. if it does, your relay is whats causing it to stay on.

was an upgraded fuel pump added/modified?

sounds like something is backfeeding into your ingition, check all of your wiring as well as your earth points in the engine bay. it could be your alternator or (most likely) another accessory that stays on 5sec after you turn the key off. stay in the car and switch it off, keep an eye/ear out for accessories (deck, lights, electric fans etc..) that stay on while the car is on, and turn off at the same time. see if you can track it down that way. is there anything special you've added to the car like electric fans? or is it a straight swap with nothing extra added?

how does the car turn off? is it an instant click and its off? or does it die down and kind of stall?

the way i see it is; those guerrilla forces in the jungle use hiluxes to get their troops around, hiluxes are everywhere in the middle east and have to deal with dust and sand storms constantly - as well as constant heat, in thailand they all use hiluxes to transport trannys and top gear tested the shit out of one and it still didnt die. whats the moral of the story kids???

well i just threw in my standard injectors and reverted back to the old map and it made NO change. i also checked the fuel filter and it wasn't blocked at all. now ive got to wait for my throttle adapter to come, then if that doesnt work ill grab a fuel pump. ohhh how i absolutely love diagnostics

earth is fine, i thought it might have been at first but i hooked it up directly do a ground point on the chassis and it didnt change anything. with the ebay throttle body the TPS has to run in reverse to the standard ecu, so for eg. if the standard throttle had 0.1v being closed and 5v being open, the ebay throttle body only works with the 5v as being closed and 0.1v being open.... its the only way it would work but the ecu calibrates whatever voltages are open and closed and sets it as 0-100% throttle position. ive got it down to a few things; 1. throttle body leak - adapter is coming some time this week so ill be able to rule it out. this will also make the voltages back to normal settings. 2. acceleration enrichment - does anyone know a way i can check this? do the %'s go up or down with bigger injectors? 3. fuel pump/filter - i took the pump out yesterday and checked for anything that could cause it to fail but i didnt see anything out of the ordinary. if the above 2 dont work i'll replace it with a new one.

bugger.. if its the injectors i might just swap back to standard. im thinking about getting it running just to sell it off now.

can anyone tell me what the signs of a bad fuel pump is on a skyline? has anyone had/heard of the effects? i think it may be the pump.

im sure it will work but not very quickly... now with no bleed valve my steps are: [car off] - fill up the radiator all the way with a sealed bottle on the end of the filler, fill the bottle half way and pump the top hose till the bubbles stop coming up (keep filling up the bottle so it has at least half of it full. then do the same with the bottom hose. - turn the car on - rev the car up and down to around 3000rpm every 30 sec or so till you get to operating temp. - when you get to around 90-95 degrees switch the car off (95 deg is pretty much half way up the temp gauge, your car will normally sit around 2mm under the half way mark). - leave the car off for around 30-40min till the temps go right down then repeat the steps again till you dont need to top it up anymore. i usually go for a drive after ive filled it up the first time though.

i dont know what the story is on his end, im just speculating on what his motives were to say 'its not my problem, i didnt build the turbos'. people who had problems with the turbos after he 'fixed' them, failed again and then were directed to GCG to inspect, and then when they said it was a build fault, they were redirected to m.v's to get a refund... and they didnt respond to anything, the phones were never picked up and there was no other way to contact them.

well because the thermostat's job is to trap coolant, air will find a way of getting trapped in there too which is why there is a coolant line coming from just behind the thermostat housing which leads directly to the bleeder.

its been running perfect up until 2 weeks or so after the plenum/injector install. i think an air leak would effect it if a considerable amount of air is passing through the TB. i hooked up my compressor to the cooler piping and it was hissing enough for me to pick where it was coming from straight away.

im pretty certain its the air leak in the throttle body thats causing it, im waiting on an adaptor to arrive so i can put the stocky one back on. i think its a case of the map sensor not moving on the fuel map quick enough which is causing it to run lean off take off. ill report back when the adaptor comes.

I dont think you understand mate. if you were building the turbos then it was your fault they failed lol. MV autos were a ghost company.

the 2nd round of hiflows had a few dodgy ones S.P. were having trouble with. there was a whole drama about refunds that aaron was passing onto M.V Automotive (who he said were building the turbos) and were not contactable at all, he also ended up telling me amongst a few other people to get GCG turbochargers to check out, they wrote me a report saying 'showed excessive wear' they said it showed more than 50,000km's of wear after i had a total of a month driving on it and countless bottles of oil from topping up when the turbo would spit it out. thats pretty much the story.

DO NOT get one from a wrecker, always replace this part with a new one, 2nd hand ones are too brittle. i doubt supercheap and repco would have it, you may need to go to a private parts shop and they will usually sell you a part that will fit, thats where i got mine, fits nice and snug. otherwise just go to a nissan parts dealer. if you're going around to private parts places i suggest taking the PCV (the dark plue part) and taking it with you so they can get one to fit right. after that its a case of putting the new seal into the rocker cover and sliding (forcefully) the PVC into it. also, make sure all of the rubber came out when it broke, otherwise you will have some in your head.

then it sounds like youve got some more things to 'set the record straight about' bud, like what was with not warranting dodgy hiflows? i just hope you never get caught in the same shit i did ash. getting dicked by a 'mate' is not something anyone would take lightly.

it started doing it again. i found another leak in my ebay special throttle body, its a tiny leak which is starting to do my head in but i still doubt its causing the problem, but im going to try get a greddy throttle body adapter and check my stock TB to see if that fixes the problem. has anyone got any suggestions? keep in mind the car runs a MAP sensor and a VIPEC ecu. so far ive played with the injector dead times (made the entire map rich), and accel map which didnt do anything.

i love it when people get caught taking credit for other peoples work: http://rb30det.info/?m=200902 i'd go at him with a bat mate lol. how are the people who dont have a bleeder in their cars bleeding the system? im having issues getting it bled with a thermostat in.

i have to agree with you on the defects part as well as people not seeing the effort but when i did the plenum everyone has been noticing the engine bay looking much much cleaner which is a start. at the end of the day i keep it because id hate to see it go as well as the thought of someone not respecting it the way i do. im glad my last car was bought by someone in SA so i never see it again, it would burn me too much!

Most of us have been through it.. when we think 'THATS IT! im selling this POS MOTHERF*CK OF A CAR and letting the next guy spend all of his money and time on it!!! RAAAAAAAAAAAAHHH!!!!!!!!!!'. but we always end up keeping it and spending all of our time and money on it because (for me at least) we know that in the end when its finally running it will be worth it....... when its FINALLY running. this is mainly for the guys/gals who go through the depression of having their car in pieces with no end in sight who feel like throwing in the towel and setting it on fire in hopes of an insurance claim.... whats your worst moment and what is your best? why do you keep it? and why do you keep putting yourself through it? ill go first... ive had my car for almost 5 years, ive gone through 5 or 6 builds (not at my fault, i just cant find a decent engine builder!!), a paint job and a whole bunch of other issues that have kept my car off the road for around 1/4 of the time ive had it.. my worst was on my first engine build... elbow deep in oil, havent been clean for 2 months straight because of the constant dismantling, cleaning, fitting, parts everywhere in my garage, parents giving me crap all the time about it, money disappearing, bills to pay..... i was going to set it on fire but remembered i didnt have insurance. best is when its finally running and im hitting the track or nasho (royal national park in sydney), absolute best feeling and thats what i always think about when im in that situation. for the entire 1hr its running right, its worth it.

fixed it guys. i was thinking why it would go lean and then rich right after and i thought... MAP SENSOR may have been jumping around the fuel map in a shit way so i took my hoses off one at a time to look for a leak and i found a shitty little one RIGHT on a clamp. why is it that my car never has an obvious fix?? thanks guys.

not properly, i had it on a dyno after the engine was rebuilt by the engine builder but the new injectors and plenum havent been tuned in properly. i got it running pretty well using the auto tune and the m5, but this problem just started randomly though. the accel enrichment didnt work. it didnt change at all. i think its something mechanical rather than the tune.