SECURITY

thanks mate.. just making sure he wasnt talking about something different.

can you elaborate Trent? i cant find that feature on the vipec

i think you might be on to something, ill have a play around with the accel enrichment tables and see where it gets me.

sorry, shouldve given a run down on the car its got a vipec ecu, it does it under any load, i tried changing the tune around (the vipec has a 1-100 range) i went from 42 in the cells up to 60 and it didnt change much, im pretty sure its a mechanical issue.

oops.. fixed it

when i go to accelerate from either a standing start or between gears the car hesitates, goes lean and kind of sputters a bit then goes back to normal. if i accelerate SLOWLY it doesnt do it, and when i accelerate HARD it doesnt do it, im not sure what it is. i tried checking for leaks in the vac/cooler system with no luck. i took a vid to see if it would help identify the problem. the gauge on the left is the wideband and you can see the pressure/vac/accelerator position on the gauge on the right.. turn up your volume so you can hear what the car is doing. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPHSLI50Kd4 cheers guys

yeah ive got one of those Nick. they dont supply enough current to power a laptop properly.

are there going to be any power outlets close by to charge my laptop for a bit of data logging? im still trying to work out some issues with the tune.

you're a P plater for 3yrs so you might as well get an n/a, its not worth taking the risk over 3yrs. which n/a? go straight for the company that is known to make the quickest n/a cars.... honda. just dont join the honda forums, theyre a bunch of whinging little bitches who measure the size of their dicks with a micrometer.... as in they all stand next to each other and use the 1 micrometer to get a combined measurement.

say for example you have 2 pipes, both flowing @ 15psi. one pipe is 50mm, the other is 100mm thick. you are getting more air out of the 100mm pipe than you are out of the 50mm one. this is the same for turbos. the bigger the turbo, the more air it will push out. a bigger turbo can produce the same flow at a lower psi than a smaller turbo can produce at its highest psi. for example, a standard r33 turbo will cause a car to produce 200kw @ 12psi because it can flow a certain amount of air at 12psi. a larger turbo, for example a gt35r can produce the same 200kw but at a lower psi (say 7psi) because it can flow the same amount of air at that psi. at 12psi on the gt35 will see you pushing out almost 300kw because it can flow much more air at 12psi. cars run on air and spark (basically). if you have more air flowing through the motor you can produce more power. it doesnt matter what the air pressure is, its the flow of air that will effect performance (ofcorse having lots of flow and high psi will produce lots and lots of power if your car can produce enough exhaust - but thats a whole other issue. not sure if that makes sence - but i tried lol.

go with a decent EBC and you will notice a difference. with a t-piece you cant factor in the boost drop off that usually happens higher in the rev range, EBC can factor all this in.

cams/gears, forward facing plenum, decent boost controller.

on a positive note - the blocked rear is an OP6 housing... would be good as a part of a hiflow one day.

looks like a rear diff and a motor sitting on top of it to me Trent and by the look of the direction of the tyres it also looks like its the rear... not too sure on what car though.

both of those copper pipes attach onto the block, the oil line (the one with the curl in it) sits towards the middle of the motor - the water pipe shown sits towards the rear of the motor (when you attach the bracket for this, it should line up to its location). there is another water line that wraps around from the other side of the motor. here are pics ive got of mine, they arent the best but i hope it helps:

so in other words, not only do you want to put a standard/hiflow turbo in, you want to add another 40ish kg of metal just so you can say youve got a turbo under your car? its got absolutely zero (or less) performance gain and you'll need a hiflow just to offset the weight you've added lol. that pic looks like its on a rear engine motor like an mr2 or something where there isnt much space to add a big turbo. there is plenty of space in a skyline so scrap this idea and move onto another radical, school holiday worthy idea.

we were on our 2nd case at that stage - when i woke up the next day i was so suprised i didnt fuck up the cross hatching hahaha breaking the ceramic part off a spark plug is probably the most common problem with noobs playing with engines. if you dont have the proper tool to get the spark plugs in/out you can warp it in a big way and the first thing to go is the ceramic part. just using a deep socket isnt good enough unless you know how not to fuck it up. but you guys are pro's right?

is there any other way?

if it screws in fine, the fault is yours. i havent used the specified plugs in my car for 4 years. it sounds like you're dead-set on running your car without checking anything at all. although i think its fcuking stupid i'll give you some tips on how to do a bit less damage than you already have: pull out the CAS and injector looms, pull out ALL spark plugs, pour some oil (around 300ml) into the bore through the plug hole of the cylinder you dropped the crap into then crank the motor for 5sec. do this a few times. this may not fix your problem but at least this way you have more of a chance of success than the route you're taking now. keep in mind that you should get ALL of the oil out before starting the car again otherwise you may cause the car to hydraulic lock once the plugs are in. its not as easy as it sounds so if you dont feel comfortable doing it - dont! when you turn your car on you will get a fair bit of blue smoke out of the exhaust from the oil that is now in there - give it some time to burn up. again, DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK and i HIGHLY recommend you rip the head off or at least get a bore scope instead.

i use it too. great piece of kit and very cheap in comparison.

you've got to get at it with a 1/4" socket, what i did was use around 40cm of 3/8 extension so i could use my 3/8 ratchet incase they were tight - going at it with a 1/4" ratchet and you'll smash the gears. i put a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter on the end of the 3/8" extension and used the rest as 1/4" extensions so it could get into the tight spots. luckily the end of my long 1/4" extension allows the socket to swivel a bit.

he's stated in his opening post that its staying N/A for the time being. im sure you'll understand that going through a build you will cut things out that arent absolutely necessary - turbo side of things must have been his. if he was going to keep it N/A he would've also just used an rb30e long block, instead hes got the rb25 head so id assume he is keeping his options open to further modify the engine. i'd still recommend the rb30 over a vq30 because your options are still alot wider open. vq30 would go for approx 7k and if you're going to spend that, you might as well go for a vk45 for a bit extra, but then you're spending 10k for a motor that will be an incredibly tight fit and at the end of the day you're stuck with a 10k motor that is still standard, then parts for modifications are expensive and really, an e36 isnt exactly a car you put these things into. spend 10k on an rb30 and bla bla bla etc, you know where im going with this.

rb30's are cheap to maintain, cheap to build and cheap to modify in comparison (i paid $8,000 for a m3 rebuild which only included rings, crank and bearings). 3-400kw in an rb30 for $6-7k is an easy accomplishment these days. you're pretty much stuck with the power you have standard with anything else that will fit straight in unless you throw in a super/turbo charger and then you're already over what your budget would've been if you throw in an rb30/2jz etc etc.

haha sorry mate. had to. as long as theyre short they should be no problem.

i had a look at the cat he had in there just then, it was a magnaflow one that looked exactly same as the standard r33 one except it had a better looking (and better flowing i'd imagine) core. either way, the standard cat i put in there should get him out of trouble.