SECURITY

exclusive colours in smithfield is the guy most of the sau'ers go to. he is a bit pricey but apparently he does top notch work. its not far from where you are.

read through the SAFC2 manual and figure out how to switch between file 1 and file 2. file 1 should be your tune and file 2 should be a cleared map with no adjustments or vise versa, it doesnt matter which way it is - just dont delete it accidently. switch to the file with no settings then reset the ECU again and go for a drive. switch back to file 2 and it should all be back to normal.

water in your oil will definitely make your engine knock. it sounds like you've spun a bearing mate

bent rod = really bad knocking, you'll hear a really bad rattle coming from the engine. and it will be REALLY rough on idle as well as loads of blue smoke coming out of your exhaust - thats if it actually idles. if you're getting black smoke out of your exhaust then chances are your spark plugs are flooded. do what i said above if its blowing out black smoke and you should be sweet.

if i was you i'd be checking that your coil packs and spark plugs arent flooded with water. just get to the plugs/coil packs and make sure they are as dry as possible before re-assembling it all. you'll need to remove any water from your piping as well as your wet air filter before starting the car up again. also make sure your AFM isnt fcuked too.

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or just pay someone local to act as your agent.

I'd be more worried about spinning a bearing because of the air bubbles the crank is causing when hitting the oil. chances are you've messed up the crancase pressure and oil is coming out of your turbo seal, PCV or even your beathers. drop the oil but wait a while for the oil to run down the walls of the block, crank and rods, you could re-use the oil you put in there just make sure you dont contaminate it.

My mate (a forum member) had his PowerFC tuned twice in the space of 2 weeks at $600 a pop. The first tune was absolute rubbish, even when they tried to fix it, the car ran okay but guzzled fuel like it was 60c/L. The second tune was much better but he didnt make the power he hoped for - $1200 later and he still doesnt have a tune he is overly happy with. On another note, installing cams/gears is a process where a mechanic has had past experience in dealing with, he will know where they are to sit to get maximum gains because he would have done hundreds of them before and seen all the different combos so you're really only paying for their labour to fit and do small adjustments. There is no way they actually start from scratch on every cams/gears they install on an everyday setup.

they're equivalent to 235/35/17's. how long has it been since they were last used?

completely normal, dont worry about it. its just the built up burnt oil over time. to clean them just soak them in some fuel and scrub off.

$450 + postage.

and to answer the most common question about the Mines ECU- this is no longer in the car, ive got it sitting in my drawer ready to go.

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pm sent about workshop.

just thought you guys would be interested. starts at 2pm.

I was trawling through ebay and found this: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-12-V8-RACE-EXTE...%3A1|240%3A1318 As im looking for an oil cooler i was trying to think how effective it would be and came up with this; - the fins dont penetrate deep enough into the oil for it to be effective in transferring heat - oil pressure on startup will take longer to generate depending on where it is located (the picture in there is showing it to be mounted up high). looks like just another ebay cheapo item to me. What are your thoughts?

theyve dropped in price already! price drop - $460 + postage

from what i understand he means leave the metal bov/breather return and run a small extension from there which is why id say it wouldnt work.

it wont work unless you bend or cut the original piping, otherwise it wont fit on right.

those 'rings' you're referring to is the thread for an intake air temp sensor or a nozzle of some sort. mate, just back off the skyline and go harass a poor little honda civic or something.

exactly. anyone buying a steel intake pipe will need to modify those hoses. and from what i can see they come with a fitting to put a temp sensor or even nozzle of some sort.

the older guys will tell you not to go into debt for a car because it just doesnt stop once you've started (which delays everything later on). the younger guys will tell you to go for it if its within your budget. best way is to look at your current situation and see if you can afford it, and if you can, are you looking at making any other major purchases within the time you get to pay the car off? (i.e. house, move out, and if you buy a GTR - a rebuild). if you've got 2yrs left you'll be looking for a full time or a 4-day-a-week job in your field in around a year and doing uni at night (they usually allow for this in your last year of most courses) so wait till you've gotten to that point so you at least have a more solid cash flow.