SECURITY

found the problem. the ECU's pin 16 isnt sending 12v to the ECCS relay when the key is turned off, its constantly grounded.

all good. i found the problem. looks like the ECU isnt switching off the ECCS relay.

hey guys, ive got a parasitic drain and i suspect its the ECU not switching the ECCS relay off. does anyone have a series 1 r33 gtst ecu i could borrow just to test it out? ill be your best friend. cheers, joe

best method would be to loosen the tensioner, take the head bolts off, prop up the head from the block by wedging some 10mm bits of timber (or something soft) between them, then remove the belt and then take the head completely off. the idea is that if the cams move then you could possibly be up for replacing your valves. keeping the belt on eliminates this from happening, and propping up the head stops the valves hitting your pistons if either of them move after you remove the belt.

So I may have a little progress. I unplugged the ECCS relay and connected it to another known working one with no success. Although everything turns off when I pull the ECCS relay off. I then started the car without the ECCS relay connected and it started but stalled around 5-7 seconds after running and everything else switches off when I take the key out. Every time I pull the key out and try start it again it starts and stalls. Does this mean anything to anyone?

it does have an alarm but that doesnt explain why everything stays on. if the alarm was draining the battery then the other things shouldnt be happening regardless. pulling out the main fuse didnt really do anything, it still went flat. i tried the relays behind the ECU, i swapped them around and nothing happened. im starting to think its the actual ECU.

i find it weird that if you've got a tune-able ECU that it even hits R&R in the first place. what ECU are you running?

yep.. that was a bit retarded though. does the car have an EBC?

i havent modded the air con system in any way so i doubt thats the issue. ill check out the relays behind the glove box and see what happens. i pulled out the main fuse in the boot and it doesnt lose charge. i might just hook it up to a kill switch if i cant find the problem soon. keep the suggestions coming guys, im willing to try everything.

after 2 days straight with no sleep this is what i came up with, i managed to get some crappy in-car vids. it was a good day but i had to leave early because of how wrecked i was,

yeah i suspect the relay feeding power to the ECU is shagged. i might hook up a kill switch connected to the main relay till i work it all out though.

I' had to turn back for my helmet guys. I'll be getting there around 8

theres someone else thats messing with both of you. a mate of mine was doing this to someone from a website a mate of his set up that spoofs numbers (lots of companies use it now). he'd send bloke1 a message with bloke2's number. just completely confuse the guy by sending something really awkward that he couldnt/wouldnt even reply to. it worked for ages.

im going to be so hammered lads, i cant sleep!

thanks for the suggestions guys. i ripped out the aircon system in my car mate.

hey mate, ill help set up if i can store my tools and jack under it!!

what should i bring? ive got my trolley jack, tools and oils in the car. anything else?

i just tried updating the firmware on the ECU and it requires me cycle the ignition on and off. when i switched the key off the ECU didnt switch off. i had to pull out the main fuse as i mention before for it to 'cycle'. i just tried turning the ignition off while the ECU was connected to the laptop and it didnt turn off! so now i know the ECU doesnt turn off. strange! what feeds power to the ecu? is there a relay i can check in line?

my battery keeps going flat and i dont know why. i could leave it over night and the next morning it will barely have any power to turn on. i know its not a dead battery as i had it tested. the alternator keeps the battery charged just fine. it started happening randomly which has me very confused. these are the current symptoms.. - the antenna motor keeps trying to pull the antenna down (there is no antenna in there - someone randomly broke it). i cut off the power feed for this and the battery still keeps going flat. the weird thing is the deck doesnt stay on - it turns off. where does the power for the antenna motor come from? - my AFR gauge stays on after i pull the ignition out. its power feed is connected to the ECU's ignition power feed. i pulled out the power cord for the gauge and it still goes flat. when i pull the main relay/fuse thing out from next to the battery in the boot, everything turns off and i'd assume the battery wont go flat - i'll report back on this though. does anyone have any idea on how i can track the issue down? i dont have a multi meter to test anything at the moment though. any help would be great.

I'll bring a few copies

what time do we need to get there to get a AASA licence? and does anyone know of a cheap place i can rent a car trailer from?

instead of chasing your tail trying to fix crappy hardware, just swap it out for something decent and easy to use. i dont even know why a turbo timer would have anything to do with a boost controller..... but whatever. rip that crap out and run your gear separately.

the clicking noise is probably a turbo gasket failure (i.e. its torn). once it warms up it expands and seals which stops the noise from occurring. thats my guess.

it sounds like its too tight. the belt should be able to move around 5mm in either direction or be able to be twisted 45 degrees max. even if you could take the covers off without removing the balancer, do it anyway so you can triple check that you didnt accidentally miss a tooth. turn the motor over two full revolutions before you put the final tension on the belt. put some tension on it while you're turning it over though, otherwise it may skip a tooth in the process. EDIT: i had a gates belt and it wasnt noisy at all. if your belt is too tight it will cause the front cam/crank seals and bearings to wear much faster. its not something i would leave to fix later.

yeah i'd agree with $3-3.5k. the only positive is its P plate legal so you may get lucky if you advertise it for $5-6k but dont get greedy otherwise you'll never sell it.